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Sputtering B210 A14 motor....


B210ratsun

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ggzilla - OK so I drained it twice and it was exactly the same.... went to the parts store and picked up some carb cleaner.... dumped the fuel a third time... sprayed inside where the bolts were with cleaner and let it drain out for about 5 minutes... put the bolts back... still the same. 

 

King Rat - I looked at my solenoid and noticed it only has a black wire.... I'll take a picture of the connection too. Is there supposed to be two wires? Or might that black wire in the picture I posted before hold both wires inside of it? I am afraid to cut it open to check.

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OK so tested the solenoid and it does have power... tried to start it without the solenoid connected and it started just fine... and idled... but then died a second later.. I reconnected the solenoid and started it again but the flap on the carb was stuck open... so I closed it and it started and it idled.... for about 10 minutes and then as soon as I hit the gas to kick the idle down it died. 

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Now that I think about it if it has power (solenoid) then it should be OK. I did the block of wood and rubber mallet and that didn't do anything either. So it seems on cold starts it does run and idle (there is a crackling sound coming out of the carb though) as soon as I kick it into low idle it dies. If I try to restart it acts like it isn't going to turn over then if I give it a few pumps on the gas it starts and then dies. If I keep my foot on the gas it stays running but again sputters and sounds generally like shit. If I rev the shit out of it... it sounds AWESOME!... and then dies when I let off the gas... it does want to die sometimes and sounds like I am flooding it when I first start to rev it up before I rev the shit out of it. This never used to happen.

 

There is an actuator on the back side of the carb that looks like a really tiny wastegate actuator and it does not appear to be doing anything... it always seems to be in the same place. Is that normal?  

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It is not a solenoid, it is a vacuum issue.  Make sure that the two sensors (intake air temp sensor and idle compensator) in the air cleaner tank are connected to vacuum lines, and are not leaking.  Second, make sure the air control valve is connected.  If you do not own one, get it as it contributes to the efficiency of the idle and overall performance of the burning of fuel.  I bet it is a vacuum line though.  

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King Rat / 0r0b210 - as far as I know there has never been lines connected to any of the pipes besides what is connected in the picture, except the black small pipe next to the large pipe had a cap that was broken that I removed (was going to replace the cap). The large pipe seems like it goes to the large hose coming out on the back of the top of the valve cover. Its the same size and that hose is cut off at an angle I'll see if I can send a picture of that tomorrow. The other pipe on the left side that is bent at an angle has never had a line connected to it that I know of. But wouldn't the car idle with the air cleaner off? And it did finally idle when it was cold cold. There is a black sensor looking piece in the air cleaner but there is nothing connected to it and it doesn't appear that there ever has been at least since I've had it. I am going to pick up the parts I ordered tomorrow and see if they have an assortment of vacuum line too. I'll try it.

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King Rat / 0r0b210 - as far as I know there has never been lines connected to any of the pipes besides what is connected in the picture, except the black small pipe next to the large pipe had a cap that was broken that I removed (was going to replace the cap). The large pipe seems like it goes to the large hose coming out on the back of the top of the valve cover. Its the same size and that hose is cut off at an angle I'll see if I can send a picture of that tomorrow. The other pipe on the left side that is bent at an angle has never had a line connected to it that I know of. But wouldn't the car idle with the air cleaner off? And it did finally idle when it was cold cold. There is a black sensor looking piece in the air cleaner but there is nothing connected to it and it doesn't appear that there ever has been at least since I've had it. I am going to pick up the parts I ordered tomorrow and see if they have an assortment of vacuum line too. I'll try it.

 

I agree about the car idling without all of the vacuum stuff.  But, I can only peak of what my A14 reacts to as I have all of the stock parts involved in the performance of the engine.  The black sensor in the air cleaner tank is the air temp sensor and its vacuum lines greatly contribute to the idling performance of MY A14.  I wish you the best of luck, sir.  The carb is a tiny little thing- if you want to bypass the stock performance just get a little weber beast, jaja.  Peace Brother.

 

-Octavio

6192139382

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So this part has a spring in it that does not seem to be very 'springy'... this is on the back of the carb... the spring is in the middle all wrapped around behind the levers in the middle of this...

 

IMG_20131215_122349_492.jpg

 

It looks like this is supposed to control the butterfly on the carb but again does not seem to do anything. If I close the butterfly (by hand) and then hit the throttle (car running or not) and the butterfly opens and never closes... is the butterfly supposed to close? 

 

Currently searching for any vacuum leaks but have not come across any yet... most of the vacuum hose in the car is brand new because the motor is brand new (not rebuilt but a crate motor from Nissan) new fuel line was run with new vacuum hose just about everywhere but I have found two cracking lines that I have replaced but both were still 'OK' and did not have breaks in them. 

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Yeah, it's missing the bi-metallic coil spring and the electric heater. The 'J' shape loop on the end pulls the choke plate closed as the coil contracts with the cold. You can see the heater coils in behind and they warm up the coil at a pre determined rate and the coil expands and unwinds letting the choke off.

 

Canby2013026Large.jpg

 

The other side will look like this...

 

carbmodifiedchokeadjustable2Large.jpg

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Yup, again. lol

 

There are usually three small screws holding it on just like in the bottom picture. When loosened it allows the choke to be adjusted by turning the housing. Rich... left and lean... right just like what's written on the black plastic in the bottom picture. Probably was left loose and the screws vibrated out and it fell off.

 

All you have to make sure of is that the 'J' shape is hooked around that lever sticking out so the coil will pull on the lever. With engine cold set the tension on the coil spring by twisting to the rich side till the choke plate is closed. You may have to hold the throttle open slightly for this. The rest is pretty much automatic.

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