B210ratsun Posted December 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2013 I did this and I heard no clicking except for the ignition switch... I had a second pair of ears on it and they also heard nothing...? Quote Link to comment
B210ratsun Posted December 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2013 Ordered new points and condenser will pick them up tomorrow.... will change that tomorrow if I get the car fixed tonight or not. Everything has spark though I checked each plug when I put new ones in yesterday. Quote Link to comment
B210ratsun Posted December 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2013 Is the Idle Cut Solenoid the same as the Anti-Dieseling Solenoid? Is this what I need if I hear no clicking? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 14, 2013 Report Share Posted December 14, 2013 Yes anti dieseling solenoid. It may simply not be getting power to it from the ignition switch. Check the red? wire to it with a test lamp. Or simply make a temp jumper wire to the battery and see if it clicks. Quote Link to comment
B210ratsun Posted December 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2013 ggzilla - OK so I drained it twice and it was exactly the same.... went to the parts store and picked up some carb cleaner.... dumped the fuel a third time... sprayed inside where the bolts were with cleaner and let it drain out for about 5 minutes... put the bolts back... still the same. King Rat - I looked at my solenoid and noticed it only has a black wire.... I'll take a picture of the connection too. Is there supposed to be two wires? Or might that black wire in the picture I posted before hold both wires inside of it? I am afraid to cut it open to check. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 14, 2013 Report Share Posted December 14, 2013 It may be a Red wire with black sheath. Either way should have 12 volts with the ignition on. The the solenoid grounds through the carb body. Quote Link to comment
B210ratsun Posted December 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2013 Here is the connection... I just disconnected it to take a picture but tried to plug it and unplug it to see if it might be a bad connection... it has a good connection (tested). Guess I am going back to the auto parts store for a voltage tester. Quote Link to comment
B210ratsun Posted December 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2013 OK so tested the solenoid and it does have power... tried to start it without the solenoid connected and it started just fine... and idled... but then died a second later.. I reconnected the solenoid and started it again but the flap on the carb was stuck open... so I closed it and it started and it idled.... for about 10 minutes and then as soon as I hit the gas to kick the idle down it died. Quote Link to comment
B210ratsun Posted December 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2013 Should I take the solenoid out and see if there is anything wrong with the end inside the carb? Quote Link to comment
B210ratsun Posted December 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2013 Now that I think about it if it has power (solenoid) then it should be OK. I did the block of wood and rubber mallet and that didn't do anything either. So it seems on cold starts it does run and idle (there is a crackling sound coming out of the carb though) as soon as I kick it into low idle it dies. If I try to restart it acts like it isn't going to turn over then if I give it a few pumps on the gas it starts and then dies. If I keep my foot on the gas it stays running but again sputters and sounds generally like shit. If I rev the shit out of it... it sounds AWESOME!... and then dies when I let off the gas... it does want to die sometimes and sounds like I am flooding it when I first start to rev it up before I rev the shit out of it. This never used to happen. There is an actuator on the back side of the carb that looks like a really tiny wastegate actuator and it does not appear to be doing anything... it always seems to be in the same place. Is that normal? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 14, 2013 Report Share Posted December 14, 2013 That is normal. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 14, 2013 Report Share Posted December 14, 2013 Don't buy a new valve - test it. Remove the needle pintle and put the valve back in. If that solves the problem then the valve isn't working. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 14, 2013 Report Share Posted December 14, 2013 Good work. Quote Link to comment
0r0B210 Posted December 14, 2013 Report Share Posted December 14, 2013 It is not a solenoid, it is a vacuum issue. Make sure that the two sensors (intake air temp sensor and idle compensator) in the air cleaner tank are connected to vacuum lines, and are not leaking. Second, make sure the air control valve is connected. If you do not own one, get it as it contributes to the efficiency of the idle and overall performance of the burning of fuel. I bet it is a vacuum line though. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 14, 2013 Report Share Posted December 14, 2013 Are there hoses for these two pipes? Quote Link to comment
0r0B210 Posted December 14, 2013 Report Share Posted December 14, 2013 Are there hoses for these two pipes? The large inlet goes to the Air Control Valve. The inlet next the the large one should be from the air compensator sensor. I have to look at my B to see where exactly they connect to. Quote Link to comment
B210ratsun Posted December 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2013 King Rat / 0r0b210 - as far as I know there has never been lines connected to any of the pipes besides what is connected in the picture, except the black small pipe next to the large pipe had a cap that was broken that I removed (was going to replace the cap). The large pipe seems like it goes to the large hose coming out on the back of the top of the valve cover. Its the same size and that hose is cut off at an angle I'll see if I can send a picture of that tomorrow. The other pipe on the left side that is bent at an angle has never had a line connected to it that I know of. But wouldn't the car idle with the air cleaner off? And it did finally idle when it was cold cold. There is a black sensor looking piece in the air cleaner but there is nothing connected to it and it doesn't appear that there ever has been at least since I've had it. I am going to pick up the parts I ordered tomorrow and see if they have an assortment of vacuum line too. I'll try it. Quote Link to comment
0r0B210 Posted December 15, 2013 Report Share Posted December 15, 2013 King Rat / 0r0b210 - as far as I know there has never been lines connected to any of the pipes besides what is connected in the picture, except the black small pipe next to the large pipe had a cap that was broken that I removed (was going to replace the cap). The large pipe seems like it goes to the large hose coming out on the back of the top of the valve cover. Its the same size and that hose is cut off at an angle I'll see if I can send a picture of that tomorrow. The other pipe on the left side that is bent at an angle has never had a line connected to it that I know of. But wouldn't the car idle with the air cleaner off? And it did finally idle when it was cold cold. There is a black sensor looking piece in the air cleaner but there is nothing connected to it and it doesn't appear that there ever has been at least since I've had it. I am going to pick up the parts I ordered tomorrow and see if they have an assortment of vacuum line too. I'll try it. I agree about the car idling without all of the vacuum stuff. But, I can only peak of what my A14 reacts to as I have all of the stock parts involved in the performance of the engine. The black sensor in the air cleaner tank is the air temp sensor and its vacuum lines greatly contribute to the idling performance of MY A14. I wish you the best of luck, sir. The carb is a tiny little thing- if you want to bypass the stock performance just get a little weber beast, jaja. Peace Brother. -Octavio 6192139382 Quote Link to comment
RatsunGT Posted December 15, 2013 Report Share Posted December 15, 2013 If it idles, but bogs when hitting the accelerator, it could be the actuation of the accelerator pump for the throttle, mine would never work after rebuilding it 20+ times. Make sure everything's tight too Quote Link to comment
B210ratsun Posted December 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2013 RatsunGT - where would I find that? Is it on the carb? sorry for the newb question.. Quote Link to comment
B210ratsun Posted December 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2013 So this part has a spring in it that does not seem to be very 'springy'... this is on the back of the carb... the spring is in the middle all wrapped around behind the levers in the middle of this... It looks like this is supposed to control the butterfly on the carb but again does not seem to do anything. If I close the butterfly (by hand) and then hit the throttle (car running or not) and the butterfly opens and never closes... is the butterfly supposed to close? Currently searching for any vacuum leaks but have not come across any yet... most of the vacuum hose in the car is brand new because the motor is brand new (not rebuilt but a crate motor from Nissan) new fuel line was run with new vacuum hose just about everywhere but I have found two cracking lines that I have replaced but both were still 'OK' and did not have breaks in them. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 15, 2013 Report Share Posted December 15, 2013 Yeah, it's missing the bi-metallic coil spring and the electric heater. The 'J' shape loop on the end pulls the choke plate closed as the coil contracts with the cold. You can see the heater coils in behind and they warm up the coil at a pre determined rate and the coil expands and unwinds letting the choke off. The other side will look like this... Quote Link to comment
B210ratsun Posted December 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2013 OK so that looked strange to me so I went to check the car again for any leaks and found this... It was laying down behind the motor.... had a wire connected to it and has a spring inside... is this why the butterfly is not closing? How do I reconnect this thing? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 15, 2013 Report Share Posted December 15, 2013 Yup, again. lol There are usually three small screws holding it on just like in the bottom picture. When loosened it allows the choke to be adjusted by turning the housing. Rich... left and lean... right just like what's written on the black plastic in the bottom picture. Probably was left loose and the screws vibrated out and it fell off. All you have to make sure of is that the 'J' shape is hooked around that lever sticking out so the coil will pull on the lever. With engine cold set the tension on the coil spring by twisting to the rich side till the choke plate is closed. You may have to hold the throttle open slightly for this. The rest is pretty much automatic. Quote Link to comment
B210ratsun Posted December 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2013 OK NICE!!! IT LIVES!!! Thanks guys for all the assistance! If I would not have been searching for vacuum line issues then I probably would have paid a lot of money to a mechanic to reattach that thing... THANK YOU!!! RATSUN KICKS ASS!!! 2 Quote Link to comment
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