B210ratsun Posted December 12, 2013 Report Share Posted December 12, 2013 Hey guys my car stalled on me this morning at a stop light and I was able to start it again and make it to my work but she does not sound right. Sounds like the motor is missing or not getting any 'bang', is this a fuel issue? Anything I should be looking for? Fouled spark plug? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 12, 2013 Report Share Posted December 12, 2013 Pull the plugs and inspect them. Be ready to clean them while out also.It may not be electrical it's just that this is a window into the conditions inside the combustion chamber. If black and dry sooty it's running rich, black any wet maybe flooding, black and oily bad rings or valve guides, shiny bright white it running lean, light tan/brown it's running just fine. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 12, 2013 Report Share Posted December 12, 2013 Could be fuel. Could be spark. Could be air. Don't buy any parts, test it. First thing - is the fuel level at the dot of the sight glass? Quote Link to comment
B210ratsun Posted December 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2013 Yes there is level fuel in the sight glass.. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 12, 2013 Report Share Posted December 12, 2013 What do the 4 plugs look like? Does on look very different from the others? If your B210 has points ignition, remove the cap and ensure the wires attached to and inside the distributor are not loose. Same for the wires to the + and - terminals of the coil. These are common issues that are easy to check. Quote Link to comment
B210ratsun Posted December 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2013 OK, checked all the wires, they seem like they are on. Yah its points but I don't have my tool kit in the trunk like I should.... so I can't pull the plugs right now or check under the cap. Trying to bribe a friend to bring me his tool kit. Quote Link to comment
B210ratsun Posted December 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2013 OK pulled the plugs they looked fine but replaced them anyways. Added a gallon and a half of new fuel and its still the same. It does smell rich like its being flooded or not getting enough air though... there is spark to all plugs, checked. Anything else I can check? Should I pop off the air cleaner? Anything I should be looking for? Quote Link to comment
B210ratsun Posted December 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2013 When the motor revs up it sounds fine its only when I let off the gas that it is sputtering... and it will not stay running. Quote Link to comment
vex210 Posted December 13, 2013 Report Share Posted December 13, 2013 Spray brake cleaner around your carb and hose, you'll see if a air or vac... Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 13, 2013 Report Share Posted December 13, 2013 You'll see what? Quote Link to comment
B210ratsun Posted December 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2013 OK so I checked for vacuum leaks and found a big one but that does not seem to make the issue go away. Basically the large hose that comes out of the bottom of the carb and goes to a pipe on the back side of the motor was completely undone and just kind of there. So I reconnected it and it seems to have got better but it will not stay running and still sputters and smells a lot like un-burnt fuel. The motor has warmed up with me keeping the RPMs up, though something might be clogging the fuel line so tried to rev it a little to clear it and its the same... thought maybe the carb was sticking closed but it revs up OK. Could it be the fuel pump or maybe a clogged filter? Quote Link to comment
B210ratsun Posted December 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2013 Could it be the anti-diesel valve being bad? I do not have a wire tester is there a way to test if it is bad or not? 1 Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 13, 2013 Report Share Posted December 13, 2013 If the antidiesek.is bad or not getting electricity, the engine will not run below about 1500 rpm. It will run perfect above that rpm. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 13, 2013 Report Share Posted December 13, 2013 Turn key on off on off (not start) you should hear a clicking sound at rear of carb. Presumably the idle cut solenoid is working. Warm engine and take the top off the air filter. The choke plate should be open or straight up and down. Not closed (or part closed) like this... Quote Link to comment
B210ratsun Posted December 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2013 Hey guys, so I tried everything that was mentioned... still the same shit. My carb looks different than the one in your pic King Rat but here are some pics of mine and maybe someone can tell me WTF I need to do to get it running again. Pic of where I found the vacuum leak... Pic of carb before it was warmed up... Pic after engine was warmed up... there was absolutely no difference. Pic of the Anti-Dieseling Solenoid... It was like this when I got it... have not touched this EVER... it appears to be soldered and has an extended wire on it... but also has this wire clip holding it in position..??? Quote Link to comment
B210ratsun Posted December 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2013 The flap in the carb does not move and when I tap on it with my finger it just stays in place... maybe moves like 5mm. I don't have smog anything on the carb or car for that matter... if that helps. Here is a pic of under the air cleaner... The large pipe end coming down under neath has never been connected since I have had the car. There was a plug that had failed on the small black tube end that is right next to it...vacuum leak? I will try and plug it with something but I am pretty sure that is not my issue. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 13, 2013 Report Share Posted December 13, 2013 Did it quit running? Last time it was running but wouldn't idle. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 13, 2013 Report Share Posted December 13, 2013 The picture was just for showing the choke plate.Your choke does not seen to be closing when cold. Try holding the throttle open slightly and then moving the choke plate. It should snap[ closed if the motor is cold. This is the hose from the crankcase vent to the PCV valve in the intake below the carb. (assuming you mean the one with the woven pattern on it) A leak in this hose will have no effect on running. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 13, 2013 Report Share Posted December 13, 2013 On the A-series engines, a leak in the PCV hose will not always prevent the engine from iding. But it will definitely have an effect. Try it both ways and note the difference. Engine won't start on cold days unless the choke closes. Quote Link to comment
B210ratsun Posted December 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2013 The car will not stay running, no... it dies every time I let off the gas... I read a thread last night from someone who is right down the road from me and both of you (King Rat and ggzilla) had given him multiple solutions all of which I have tried as well since it looks like we have the same carb... the sight glass is perfect where it should be and the car does start so it is getting fuel. I can keep it running by revving on the motor (thats how I warmed it up). I will let it cool off a bit more and see if I can get that flap to close. The thread I read: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/7222-carburetor-problem-pictures-help-wont-idle/ Quote Link to comment
B210ratsun Posted December 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2013 It is an electric choke... I think as there is no manual choke inside the car. Before I found that vacuum leak in the PCV line it ran like garbage and has got better since fixing it but it still sputters and smells horrible. The engine has always turned over and started even when it was 10 degrees in my canyon the other morning... never a problem with that. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 13, 2013 Report Share Posted December 13, 2013 Don't worry about the choke flap. Its only used to start a cold engine and since yours is starting then no worries. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 13, 2013 Report Share Posted December 13, 2013 it still sputters and smells horrible.The anti-diesel valve cannot cause these symptoms. I would look at two things: 1. Points. Measure the dwell and adjust to spec. If the points are old, replace the condensor and points per the maintenance schedule 2. Clean the carburetor full bowl. With a cool.engine, remove both drain plugs and let it drain onto a rag. That was will remove most of the crud in the fuel bowl, and it should run better. If it does, but stll not perfect, do it a second time. Quote Link to comment
B210ratsun Posted December 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2013 OK I did see if the flap would close... with the throttle full I was able to close it but it keeps sticking open once the car is started. When I closed it the first time it took a minute for the car to finally start but it still fires up. Never messed with points before but I will take a look. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 13, 2013 Report Share Posted December 13, 2013 Turn key on off on off (not start) you should hear a clicking sound at rear of carb. Presumably the idle cut solenoid is working. . Idle cut not working = idle not working. This is easy check to make. Then we can move to something else. Quote Link to comment
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