All of the sudden she started knocking

[pwrcat4000]

What size throwout collar did you use? You sure it's the right one for the pressure plate? the L20B likely has a shorter pressure plate than the L16 which calls for a longer throwout collar to achieve the same throw

 

 

Bleed you clutch, likely air got in during the work.

 

Do not trim the fan or it will be out of balance, trim the shroud.

 

If a 225mm clutch it will be taller than a 200mm one and so the collar would be shorter. A 240mm collar would be shorter still.

 

laotsu, DatzenMike

 

I used this exact Part

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=220404

 

 

DatzenMike

trim the shroud.

Great advice I think if I was left to my own devices this project would have gone WAY sideways

I wonder fi the 620 shroud would work but I think the Radiators are different sizes.

 

[laotsu]

Of course you bled the clutch... right? That looks like a 225 mm throwout collar. Is the shorter pressure plate on the flywheel?

[pwrcat4000]

Laotsu.

Never broke the hydraulic system so did not think I needed to bleed

although at one point the trans was hanging by the cluch hose.

I will try bleeding and get back to you all as I said I am by myself

Next step find some one who can push a pedal LOL

[laotsu]

Throw on clutch slave rod properly adjusted/in contact with fork?

[pwrcat4000]

Throw on clutch slave rod properly adjusted/in contact with fork?

 

I adjusted it all the way out the clutch still wont work

 

Bad pic of 521 original 620 OriginalWhat I put in

 

I am at a toatal loss as to what is wrong the actuator moves about an inch  the fork moves  it is like the clutch is engaged to the pressure plate could this be my problem

I bent it in line with the others as best I could but it is stlill sticking up a little.

 

I am thinking about just getting it running and see what happens.

[laotsu]

by adjusted the slave cylinder all the way out do you mean the nut is at the end of the shaft or up against the rubber boot. if it's at the end of the shaft you have the least amount of throw possible somewhere in the middle and towards the the boot is where mine is.

[datzenmike]

Normal slave movement is 1.18"

 

Pressure plates have different diaphragm heights from the flywheel surface.

 

The clutch arm has to move, more or less in the same position regardless of the diaphragm height. In other words you can't just keep adjusting the slave pushrod length. To keep the clutch arm properly centered the release collar comes in different lengths. A taller pressure plate uses a shorter collar.

[Steve521]

Going through the same exact process right now.  Hopefully you'll be able to figure it out quickly. :-)

[pwrcat4000]

by adjusted the slave cylinder all the way out do you mean the nut is at the end of the shaft or up against the rubber boot. if it's at the end of the shaft you have the least amount of throw possible somewhere in the middle and towards the the boot is where mine is.

it is adjusted as in thie picture above

it was about 1/2

 

Normal slave movement is 1.18"

 

Pressure plates have different diaphragm heights from the flywheel surface.

 

The clutch arm has to move, more or less in the same position regardless of the diaphragm height. In other words you can't just keep adjusting the slave pushrod length. To keep the clutch arm properly centered the release collar comes in different lengths. A taller pressure plate uses a shorter collar.

the 620 coller is 1/2" (longer/taller) then the L16s

The L16 pressure plate is 1/2" taller than the L20b's

 

Whe I turn the engine with the truck on blocks and in 1st the rear wheels turn wheter or not I have th clutch in or out.

 

I have been sick the last 2 days am hoping tomorrow to take the engine and trans back apart and do some measurements. and inspection hopefully it will  be worh the effort.

Since I will be pulling the motor again did I use the correct motor mounts? Original L20b's or the L16's like I used

 

Going through the same exact process right now.  Hopefully you'll be able to figure it out quickly. :-)

Steve are you doing the same swap???

[Charlie69]

Had this problem years ago on a truck I had just purchased and the throughout arm was not on the ball that screws into the front cover on the transmission.

 

Item 6 below

[laotsu]

I just put an LZ, which is essentially an L20b, in one of my 521s. I used the 521 L16 brackets and mounts.

[Steve521]

 

Steve are you doing the same swap???

 

Yes I believe so although things might be different in some ways.  I don't know what my L20b is out of and my transmission is just a stock 4 speed.  Wayno is helping me thank God because I don't know what I'm doing either because it's a "vehicle specific" issue and even though I've worked on 100s of cars in my 20 year career in the field, I've never worked on one of these.

[datzenmike]

Car and truck L20Bs were all the same for that year. Trucks had throttle cables and most cars had a linkage. Car L20Bs had 200mm flywheels and clutches while trucks were 225mm. '74-'77 used a U67 head while '78-'80 had W-58. All were points distributors (except California) through '77. All '78s were remote igniter. All '79 and '80s were matchbox dizzys. 

[Charlie69]

You are in good hands with Wayno helping you.  The man has years of knowledge and experience.  Non better than Wayno!!!

[pwrcat4000]

 

Had this problem years ago on a truck I had just purchased and the throughout arm was not on the ball that screws into the front cover on the transmission.

 

Item 6 below

 

Wow that may be the problem I had great difficulty in matching the engine and the trans and maybe I knocked it off the ball how did you fix it???

[datzenmike]

Pull the dust boot back and off and you should be able to get it on... unless jammed when mounting. Also the clip that holds it to the ball and also hods it to the collar may be off or loose.  Clipping it back on the collar looks like a bitch

[Charlie69]

Mine was jammed I had to pull the trans back out and while out I loosened the pressure plate and used a splined alignment tool and also made sure the weight pressure plate was not causing the alignment tool to sag, which will make it hard to get the transmission in.

[pwrcat4000]

Ok so finally got back in the shop yeaster day and here is the story

The fork is positioned correctly and working I did it by hand witha  large cresent wrench and it is definatley pusing the diaphram but not releseing the pressure plate.

so I began to fiddle with it  backed the bell housing bolts out about 1/4" and engaged the starter with the trans in first got the clutch to work :thumbup:

thought great finally  tightened back up the bell housing and now the clutch is ineffective again.

 

My Idea is to loosen the bell housing again until the clutch works then tighten it while cranking the starter hoping the a the movement will prevent the clutch from binding.

if that does not work

 

I may shim the bell housing out 1/4 inch and call it unsafe but good enough

 

Any suggestions guys.

[Charlie69]

DO NOT try tightening the bell housing bolts while cranking the engine over!!!!!

 

Is the clutch disc in backwards?

 

This is correct

[260zkaboom]

I recently have had the same problem. The push pin (part #6) is about a half inch too long.

What actually is happening is the pressure plate is partially depressed at rest, and when pushed, it is super depressed.

It is a simple fix, the pin needs to be shortened.

What I did for the one I worked on,  I unbolted the slave cylinder, took the pin out of the way,

used the length of the pin to find different bolts that were shorter than it, put the "test bolt" in the pins location to find out the right length.

Then mark the pin the right length and cut it down.

I cut mine down the ratsun way, put the pin in a drill used the full throttle lock on. put my foot on it keep the mini lathe from moving and cut it with a 4 inch grinder. I also rounded the end after it was cut.

[260zkaboom]

E D I T 

 

not part #6 ---  it was the clutch slave rod.   As loatsu showed in post # 55

[pwrcat4000]

The motor is running starting now although it will not  shut off with the key

 

It will not go in to gear without using the clutch (which is normal) when I do depress the clutch it will go in to gear after some time once in gear it will spin the wheels which are blocked off the ground I am able to go 1st though 4th  and reverse but the clutch is either slipping badly or 

my suspicion

I suspect that the clutch pressure plate was broken during the replacement of the motor my guess is that the center of the pressure plate was misaligned and broke loose from the disc when I tightened the bell housing bolts.

I wd40 ed all the fasteners that hold in the transmission in preparation to remove it.  I will post back

 

 

[datzenmike]

Clutch not disengaging. Check the clutch master for fluid. Probably air in the hydraulics and needs bleeding.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Dude if thats still the stock point coil you still need the ballast resisitor otherwise its going to get HOT!!!!!!!!!!!

 

just hook it back up to stock on ballast the put the B of matchbox to the + side of the ballast resisitor where the blk wht wire meet(buy a piggyback jumper for the blade connectors

 

 

or just get a 79 620/200sx coil and hook up like you have it. Or better yet get 2 new wires blak and red and make a nice taped pair from matchbox to the coil.

 

pull the stock points wire set and wrap it up and tuck it under somthing to clean it up

[pwrcat4000]

Dude if thats still the stock point coil you still need the ballast resisitor otherwise its going to get HOT!!!!!!!!!!!

 

just hook it back up to stock on ballast the put the B of matchbox to the + side of the ballast resisitor where the blk wht wire meet(buy a piggyback jumper for the blade connectors

 

 

or just get a 79 620/200sx coil and hook up like you have it. Or better yet get 2 new wires blak and red and make a nice taped pair from matchbox to the coil.

 

pull the stock points wire set and wrap it up and tuck it under somthing to clean it up

The coil is the stocker but out of the 620

Do I only need ign power to the + coil 

A wire form the + coil to the Matchbox B

A wire from the - coil to the matchbox  C

 

 

 

Charlie69

the Cluch is out of the 620 I did not remove it from the motor. It may have been bad, I had no way of testing it in the 620.

I am planning to seperate the trans from the engine and look around. I suspect that I broke the center out of the cluch wheel when putting the motor back in but I won't know until I get it back in the shop right now it is sitting out side at my house we needed the shop space. I am hoping to get it back down to the shop next week. jackl it up and pull the trans.