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All of the sudden she started knocking


pwrcat4000

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Buy the 620 and find a 5 speed.  It is a do able upgrade.  The hardest part of the 5 speed upgrade is shortening the transmission mount  and the go to a 1 piece drivel shaft.

 

TransMountMod.jpg

 

IMG_0548_zps323733af.jpg

 

figure3.jpg

 

What I did on the drive shaft for my 520 was measure as pictured above and then I went to the wrecking yard and started measuring Datsun cars and trucks until I found one that was the right length $15 and some time.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok still have not removed the L20 from the 79. Got it running though.  Smokes a little. The plugs are all black and the back plug was a little wet so I cleaned it up and put it back in.  Still a little puff of smoke the coolant system is not connected so I only ran it for a minute. It idles fine, seems to rev fine, so I guess I am ready to take it out and steam clean it. It is has a lot of gunk on the block will probably invest in a gasket kit later.

I figure I will pull the L20 first then the L16 seems like a daunting amount of work right now wish I could afford to just pay some one to do it but that is not possible.

I may buy the hoses and hook up the coolant system to test the trans out maybe drive it around the block. it has some light issues though I noticed the brake lights are on all the time.

 

Charlle69 I just don't have the funds for the 5 speed swap right now.

 

Check my list for the swap

 

I need to swap the oil pan from the L16 to the L20

 

I need to take the flywheel /trans off the L16 and put it on the L20????? (I am confused if this is what was recommended some thing about the collar?)

 

Put the Donor L20 in the 521

 

I need to remove the ballast resistor and  connect the match box directly using the coil (El Coil?) from the donor truck

reference post http://community.ratsun.net/topic/11561-lose-the-pointsgo-electronic-ignition/

 

starter wires no change

 

throttle cable (universal cable now)?

 

I need to modify the exhaust to connect to the L20 manifold

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l16 is a 5 bolt crank so a 5 bolt flywheel.

L20 is 6 bolt

 

if your 521 is a 4 spped

swap the l20 in with the whole clutch assemebly and youll need the TO bearing and collar for the L20 from the trans .do not use the 521 t/o bearing and sleeve

the 521 will be a 200mm set up. dont get this mixed up and put a tag on it.

 

this will only take a few days to do with a motivated person

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When changing oil pan change the oil pump pickup tube at the same time.  Be sure to put a gasket between the tube and the block. 

 

The trans swap can be done at any time.

 

You will like the L20B.

 

If you need, take the first section of exhaust pipe from the 620 for the 521.

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l16 is a 5 bolt crank so a 5 bolt flywheel.

L20 is 6 bolt

 

if your 521 is a 4 speed

 

swap the l20 in with the whole clutch assembly and you'll need the TO bearing and collar for the L20 from the trans .do not use the 521 t/o bearing and sleeve

the 521 will be a 200mm set up. don't get this mixed up and put a tag on it.

 

this will only take a few days to do with a motivated person

 

 

LOL Look in mirror say it with me "I am a motivated person I am a motivated person"

 

My 521 is a 4 speed

 

I think I Understand

rb20-step3-18.jpg

 

The part in this guys hand has to be switched Right? I assume the fork is the same  (this pic is from another website (240 SX forums)

 

 

When changing oil pan change the oil pump pickup tube at the same time.  Be sure to put a gasket between the tube and the block. 

 

The trans swap can be done at any time.

 

You will like the L20B.

 

If you need, take the first section of exhaust pipe from the 620 for the 521.

 

 

Charlie69 in your opinion would it be cheaper to just buy a gasket kit for the L20b or buy the individual gaskets?? I plan on keeping the truck for a while I am thinking a complete gasket kit will these work? which do you recommend?

 

DNJ Engine Components FGS6033 Engine Full Gasket Set  $49.80

or

ITM Engine Components 09-00531 Engine Full Gasket Set  $46.59

 

 

 

New Check list for the swap

 

Buy recommended gasket or gasket kit

 

Swap the oil pan from the L16 to the L20

and the oil pick up tube from the L16 to the L20

(Do I have to change the actual pump?  I cant understand why a gasket is needed on the tube this may be obvious if you are looking at it)

 

I need to take throw out bearing off the L20 trans Mark it  and put it on the L16 transmission.

 

Put the Donor L20 with the 521 4 speed in the 521

 

 

Remove /zip tie up the ballast resistor and  connect the match box directly using the coil (El Coil?) from the donor truck

reference post http://community.rat...ronic-ignition/

 

starter wires no change

 

throttle cable (universal cable now)?

 

Fuel line connect

 

I need to take the first section of exhaust pipe from the 620 for the 521 I have a buddy who is a muffler guy so I will let him do it for the beer!!!

 

------

 

Once I get it in and running I may need some help loosing the Air Pump and all that pluming I assume it is not needed and the antique laws are pretty liberal here in favor of the enthusiast

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If you are keeping the truck get a complete overhaul gasket kit, and Laotsu is right Fel Pro is my choice for gaskets.  Keep all your left over gaskets in a clean dry place where they will not get heavy things piled on them.  If you are doing rear main seal and front crank seal then definitely buy the complete overhaul set.  This way if you find more leaks when you get into it you have the parts you need.  Also it is possible to replace the valve stem seals without pulling the head. 

 

There was someone selling a rear main seal installer tool on here but I can not find the add for them.  If any ones has the contact info for these tools please post as I would like to purchase one.

 

Yes keep 620 throwout bearing with the L20B clutch. 

 

What trans is in the 620?  Is it the same length as the one in your 521?

 

It looks like you are doing your home work.

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Keep the L20B collar that HOLDS the release bearing, but use a new bearing.

 

The pick up tube to block mount needs a gasket. It isn't under any pressure but it's like a drinking straw and has to be air tight.

 

All L series, Z series or KA  4 or 6 cylinder external oil pumps are the same bolt pattern and interchangeable. The KA pumps are a high volume output.

 

The manifold for the L20B exhaust is a single round pipe and won't bolt to the 521 down pipe. As mentioned you could cut and join the two down pipes. The L16 exhaust manifold could be bolted to the L20B head too.

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Here is a 520 with QA1 coil overs all the way around.  It is a lot of work. 

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/24521-the-520/

 

Also Beebani makes parts to help with coil overs installs.

 

Mike is correct when he says there is no room for coil over struts.  It all depends on how much work and money you want to invest.

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Here is a 520 with QA1 coil overs all the way around.  It is a lot of work. 

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/24521-the-520/

 

Also Beebani makes parts to help with coil overs installs.

 

Mike is correct when he says there is no room for coil over struts.  It all depends on how much work and money you want to invest.

 

 

Huh? I will not be doing that Charlie69! did you post to the wrong thread LOL

 

Cant seem to find Felpro part number for Complete

 

DNJ FGS6033  $36.79 ordered from rock auto

 

Some of the R22 Toyota Guys like DNJ

 

 

 

 

use a new bearing.

Keep the L20B collar that HOLDS the release bearing, but use a new bearing.

 

The pick up tube to block mount needs a gasket. It isn't under any pressure but it's like a drinking straw and has to be air tight.

 

All L series, Z series or KA  4 or 6 cylinder external oil pumps are the same bolt pattern and interchangeable. The KA pumps are a high volume output.

 

The manifold for the L20B exhaust is a single round pipe and won't bolt to the 521 down pipe. As mentioned you could cut and join the two down pipes. The L16 exhaust manifold could be bolted to the L20B head too.

 

 

I am unsure Should I order L16 200MM? or L20 225MM? "New Bearing" or are they the same? They don't seem to be the same It sounds like the 620 bearing is what I need.

 

I also found this for the 1979

 

 

I have to get all the stuff ready, because I only will have limited time in the shop to do the swap.

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The collar is matched to the pressure plate and flywheel size and has nothing to do with what transmission you intend to use. If you have the 521 truck 200mm flywheel only a 200m pressure plate will bolt to it and only the proper collar for a 200mm clutch will work on it. 

 

If you intend to install a '79 620 engine then you will need the release bearing collar that is matched to the '79 225mm pressure plate.

 

The release bearings are all the same but as you are buying a new one, order the '79 bearing..

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  • 2 weeks later...

The decimation of SMOG

SAM_2070JPG_Thumbnail1.jpg

 

OK I don't think I need all the smog controls off of the donor truck I defiantly don't want the Smog pump and pluming.so what to do it looks as if I could swap the carbs and fuel pumps? if that is necessary.

If I use the 521 carb I can also use the 521 air cleaner or Will the intake and exhaust off of the 1.6 fit on the 2L. I want to do whatever is easiest that will work.

The other part is the exhaust gas  collection tube I need to plug the holes in the exhaust manifold with some thing 

SAM_2072JPG_Thumbnail1.jpg

 

I also did this to the clutch during removal

SAM_2071JPG_Thumbnail1.jpg

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use the 521 intake manifold it should be far less complicated. Check your 521 exhaust manifold, it might be smog free, if not you are going to have to remove the air injection tubes (nearly impossible) or have them welded. Use teh 521 oil pan, all L4 oil pans fit all L4 blocks but oil pans are specific to different models I.E. a 510 pan fits an L16, L18 or L20b but it wont fit in a 620 or 521.

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OK I don't think I need all the smog controls off of the donor truck I defiantly don't want the Smog pump and pluming.so what to do it looks as if I could swap the carbs and fuel pumps? if that is necessary.

If I use the 521 carb I can also use the 521 air cleaner or Will the intake and exhaust off of the 1.6 fit on the 2L. I want to do whatever is easiest that will work.

 

The other part is the exhaust gas  collection tube I need to plug the holes in the exhaust manifold with some thing 

SAM_2072JPG_Thumbnail1.jpg

Air from the pump goes into the exhaust manifold to help burn off any unburnt hydrocarbons. Don't wory about it. Use your L16 intake and exahaust manifolds. The intake won't have the EGR but you will need to use the L20B carb. The L16 exhaust won't have the air pipe plumbing and it will also bolt up to your down pipe.

 

 

I also did this to the clutch during removal

SAM_2071JPG_Thumbnail1.jpg

No problem just bend back into place and the same height as the others.

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The intake won't have the EGR but

My 521 has a EGR it is just in a different place I can easily connect it with some tubing though

 

 

The L16 exhaust won't have the air pipe plumbing and it will also bolt up to your down pipe. TRUTH my Brother

 

you will need to use the L20B carb.

 

Why wouldnt the 521 carb work since I am swapping the intake manifold. Externally  it looks and measures to the same dimensions of the 620 carb.SAM_2078JPG_Thumbnail1.jpg (521

 

has way less crap on it a manual choke and a different design on the vacuum port for the dizzy) or is a more CFM carb

 

 

SAM_2079JPG_Thumbnail1.jpg

No problem just bend back into place and the same height as the others.

Easier said than done

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EGR wasn't used untill late? '73 or '74. L18s sometimes had it. If your 521 had an intake with an EGR valve then it was swapped from a newer engine. Possibly what you think is EGR is something else? None of the L16 exhaust manifolds had provisions for the EGR tube and why, among other reasons, it is sought after.

 

The L20B will need a properly jetted carb for the engine size. Your L16 carb will work if altered. If the L20B has a carb with it, use it.

 

My FSM shows the diaphragm fingers being adjusted with a small hand tool.

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Day 3 (It's official i am not a well motivated person)

 

Datsenmike, ( I just realized you name is not KING RAT that is how observant I am)

 

I am thinking the pipe coming out of the side of the block that goes in to the base of the intake manifold is the EGR???

 

I left the 620 exhaust on it the L20B and was able to remove all the exhaust Gas tubes and plug them with brass pluming fittings.

"among other reasons, it is sought after."

Should I have used the 521 exhaust manifold?  is it better? It is definitely longer but I don't have the heat shield to warm the air for the air cleaner on the L16 exhaust manifold that is why i used the L20B exhaust manifold.

 

On the intake

I swapped the whole shebang intake manifold and carb. from the 521 and plumbed it up

I will hang on to the 620 carb/intake and all the emissions crap on it.  I think the 521 carb will work until I can get the 620 carb back in to polluting form.

 

Transmission 

The trans is still in the truck I am on the fence about removing it I figure it will be easier to install in to the truck with the trans attached to the motor.

but getting the trans loose form the truck looks confusing especially the rear mount and carrier shaft also the gear shifter (it looks like a single very rusty nut holds it on)

but it may be a pain it the arse to get the engine to mesh up with the trans and line up the bell housing ect.

 

What would/have you do/done?

 

Oil pan

I don't know why I doubted it

They are very similar but I think the 521 pan is flatter in the front and the flattened area is about an inch longer ...... anyway.

I am swapping them tomorrow because I don't want to test the theory when I am trying to get it back in the truck.

 

I took out the center link on the steering to give me more room.  I painted the engine room semigloss black.

SAM_2080JPG_Thumbnail1.jpg

 

 

SAM_2081JPG_Thumbnail1.jpg

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Engine All back in tonight at 9:30 pm went to test the clutch and NO clutch.

I can’t imagine what could be wrong?

I used the 620 throw out and a new bearing I clipped it in correctly am hoping it is an adjustment issue.

Since I am working by myself I can’t even tell if the clutch is actuating the fork or not.

I swear if I have to separate the Motor and trans again I am going to lose it

 

Also I used the 521 motor mounts it was really tough to get the motor back in not sure that was the right thing to do but it is in so????

Still have to hook up the alternator and the dizzy rewire put in the radiator and hoses

trim down the 620 fan???

Oil, filter, Water, Battery

 

I noticed the exaust port was wet on #4 when I had the manifolds off but the truck had been rolled so I don't know if there is excess oil around #4 or if it has worse problems either way

Dat Lurka (suggested)
First try Lucas valve guide seal conditioner. Works very well!

But I gotta get th clutch working first.

 

 

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Bleed you clutch, likely air got in during the work.

 

Do not trim the fan or it will be out of balance, trim the shroud.

 

If a 225mm clutch it will be taller than a 200mm one and so the collar would be shorter. A 240mm collar would be shorter still.

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