pwrcat4000 Posted November 26, 2013 Report Share Posted November 26, 2013 Yes it was like the hot rod lincoln song today. It really doesn't knock but it lost power especially against the kansas wind. I was out on the road Speed limit 75 mph May have pushed her too hard.(BTW the temp guage reads hot, I had to lengthen the sending wire it reads 1/2 way btwn the line and red at 180 F) My 521 still runs, oil looks fine it uses about 2.5 qts per tank of fuel normally (I know that is alot more than it should) It was 3/4 gal low on coolant with no visible leaks that has me thinking head gasket I refilled it and now White smoke comming out of the tail pipe ... not alot I used some K-seal in it a couple of months ago it was smoking quite a bit at idle that seemed to stop after the k-seal I really would like to drive at highway speeds was thinking Buick V6 about the same price as a reman L20? I don't know what to do guys A motor trans swap is a lot of work but I figure about any modern 4 cyl and trans RWD motor would fit and I would have the added advantages of more HP, fuel injection, overdrive, easer to find parts ect. 90's S-10? I just have the truck for fun I am not a datsun purest (don't hate) I think the truck looks cool and it is pretty easy to work on. I love that it gets 19 mpg in town I don't know if its a head gasket or what, It is running but not much power and it is a little rough at idle I have rebuild my pontiac 400 by myself, twice, (it has 375,000 miles on it 3k on this last rebuild now) I used a local machine shop on the 400, so I might be able to rebuild the L20? Don't know how hard parts are to come by to do this. Found this 620 for $200 (it has been rolled and it's pretty ate up with rust) but I am told the motor is good maybe an option? Give me some Ideas. Quote Link to comment
laotsu Posted November 27, 2013 Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 that's a 620 it has a L18 or l20 both of which will drop right in to your 521, you may have to dick around with the transmission/clutch. are you sure your 521 has a L20 and not the stock L16? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 27, 2013 Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 I wouldn't hammer it at 75 into the wind if it's using a Qt every hundred miles, and damned sure wouldn't with the temp gauge that high. Normal running is about half way up the run range. Red... you're dead. Adding wire to the sender isn't going to raise the boiling point of water. Even if you had a rebuilt head it's an oil burner. Take that rolled one out for a drive and see if it runs ok. $200 for a motor and spare parts is ok. Quote Link to comment
pwrcat4000 Posted November 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 Laotsu, You are correct its L16 and 620. I just got it wrong I am new to this world. Its 200 for the whole truck its complete. So do you think I would be able to use the whole drive train? (would be awesome if its a 5 speed if that was even availble in that model I don't know) Plus all the parts I could get to the 620 people. King, Brother, I hope I didn't offend you. I knew it was risky. I figured I would build/replace the engine this summer anyway sooo took the risk I was late and had to go. I assure you the temp gauge is not reading right. Last month I put a manual guage on it after freaking out about it 20 or 30 times When its half way between the mark and the red it is 180 F all day. I had a similar problem with my trans am New sensor + a longer heaver guage of wire = less resistance causes the gage to read higher. The temp guage is just incorrect. I swear. Also NEVER boiled over I even put collection bottle on the overflow to see. The smoking first happened at idle after I flushed the cooling system had to replace the lower hose and it was not protected past 0 F the K-seal stopped that. I think it is burning the Antifreeze in the motor. So what do you guys think? Lets assume it is toast! to re-build or replace the motor Rebuild the motor How hard are the engine parts to get? What would you est the cost of parts? Do they make a master gasket set for the L16? Can you buy a cam or is it a custom ground peice? If I did rebuild it would I be able to hit resonable hi-way speeds with out being run over by a toyota echo? Replace the motor Nowing that I push the truck would I be better in the long run getting a modern motor/trans that can handle 100 mph? I will dig in to the motor soon who knows The bottom end is not noisy. I might be able to hone & re-ring and put a new head gasket on it (It could happen) Unless you guys think that is not part of the problem. . Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 27, 2013 Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 That's a '79 620. MMmmmm L20B. The 5 speed was available from '77 so maybe. Unfortunately the 5 speed is much longer than the 4 speed you are running now. Possibly.... just possibly the front driveshaft with the carrier bearing will be short enough to fit your 521's rear driveshaft and allow a 5 speed swap it fit in. Something to look into but otherwise just run your 4 speed. The '79 4 or 5 speed also uses a 4.11 rear differential gear if you want better highway mileage? Maybe not right now but save those gears just in case later you want them. If you swap that L20B into your 521 be sure to keep the 620 release collar as it is matched to the L20B clutch. The 521 is too long and is for an L16 clutch. Quote Link to comment
laotsu Posted November 27, 2013 Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 whatever you do, buy that $200 truck, if the motor runs. You can prolly double your money selling the parts off of it. If it's a strong l20b you will love the power upgrade from the l16. if'n you are ambitious search Jason Gray on here and build one of the LZ frakenmotors. If'n you are crazy ambitious put an SR20DET and disc brakes all around and swap out the ancient kingpins for A-arms. Me? If I would just put the L20b in with the four speed. 1 Quote Link to comment
hobbes_the_cat Posted November 27, 2013 Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 Jumping from a tired L16 to a good L20b will feel like a nice jump in power. $200 for a running 620 is a no brainer to me. Even if you cant sell a single part off of it after pulling the drivetrain you'll get a good chunk of cash scrapping the leftovers. I'm sure there will be other parts to use/sell off of it though. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted November 27, 2013 Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 save this olddatsuns.com tech section is good Quote Link to comment
pwrcat4000 Posted February 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2014 Ok this is weird so I have been driving the truck in town and stuff and it seems to be running fine again took a 1 hour trip monday and it was fine I dont get it. Bad gas? This makes no sens to me. I keep thinking I would like to put an modern drivetrain in the truck maybe a gm 4 cyl something EFI ODB2 (Unsure how to fit a FWD drivetrain in a RWD truck) But I guess I will just keep driving it until it fails for now it is certainly alot cheaper. Quote Link to comment
konig209 Posted February 20, 2014 Report Share Posted February 20, 2014 Do a valve adjustment.... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 21, 2014 Report Share Posted February 21, 2014 May have pushed her too hard. (BTW the temp guage reads hot, I had to lengthen the sending wire it reads 1/2 way btwn the line and red at 180 F) I'd be inclined to believe the gauge. They seldom read wrong. If this is the case, it's way to high for running and can warp the head and /or blow the head gasket. Normal running is just below half way in the Normal range. If it says hot... it likely is. Borrow an infra red gun and shoot the thermostat housing when running. 1 Quote Link to comment
pwrcat4000 Posted July 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2014 KING RAT Well I finally F'in did it! The truck overheated lost the radiator 10 mi from home tried to baby her in to town but I think it was too late. It strted chattering and felt like it was loosing power I shut it down and had it towed home. I think something else broke and popped the radiator tank open (probably a head gasket). Now, I have a new radiator but no compression on #2 water in the oil #2 plug looks like crap It smokes something awful. It still starts and runs but after I saw the milky oil I have not started or ran the engine. How hard would it be to swap the motor out of the 620 if I bought it. I am afarid of the ignition in particular since 1979 is "matchbox" and my currrent is points based. For simplicity could I just stab in my L16's distributor to the L20? I need a cheap option. I noticed some ads where people are selling L16's but I dont think I can drive to the west coast $$$. Quote Link to comment
dr.feltersnatch Posted July 26, 2014 Report Share Posted July 26, 2014 Matchbox is easy and better go with that if possible. Sounds like a head gasket. Pull thebhead and see if anything else is wrong before you consider pulling the motor. Head gaskets are pretty easy amd not too much money. Search youtube hainz made a killer step by step video. Quote Link to comment
pwrcat4000 Posted July 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2014 dr.feltersnatch,Thanks for your reply I think your suggestion is my best optionI just hope it did not get a hard part like the head. Quote Link to comment
dat521gatherer Posted July 26, 2014 Report Share Posted July 26, 2014 Son your going to drive me to drinking!! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 26, 2014 Report Share Posted July 26, 2014 Change the head gasket. I did my L20B a few years back with a NAPA one and everything cost $23. Check your head isn't warped... $30-$50 to have milled if so. Change the oil and filter and top up with distilled water and quality anti freeze coolant and away you go. Got to be cheaper than another motor that is unknown. If you must, the matchbox is easier than points. You will need the matching '79 coil with it. Jumper a wire across the ballast resister or removeballast and join those two sets of wires together and you're done wiring it. I assume the '79 is a standard???? If so you will need the release bearing collar that is on the '79 clutch arm (it is matched to the L20B clutch that is on that engine and your L16 collar is too long. Naturally, replace the bearing that is on it with a new one. While engine is out put your L16 oil pan on the L20B engine. Quote Link to comment
pwrcat4000 Posted July 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2014 KING RAT, Change the head gasket. I did my L20B a few years back with a NAPA one and everything cost $23. Check your head isn't warped... $30-$50 to have milled if so. Change the oil and filter and top up with distilled water and quality anti freeze coolant and away you go. Got to be cheaper than another motor that is unknown. Thanks for the input never worked on overhead cam engine before that scares me a bit I have nightmares of timing issues If you must, the matchbox is easier than points. You will need the matching '79 coil with it. Jumper a wire across the ballast resister or removeballast and join those two sets of wires together and you're done wiring it. Well the points dizz has a broken vacume advance anyway I had to adjust the timming to make it run smooth (this also probably did not help my heat issue) the ballast is the white poceline thing before the coil right. then there are 2 wires that go to my points dizz off of the coil where would they go? Maybe it is obvilus when they are in front of you so sorry if it is a dumb question. I assume the '79 is a standard???? If so you will need the release bearing collar that is on the '79 clutch arm (it is matched to the L20B clutch that is on that engine and your L16 collar is too long. Naturally, replace the bearing that is on it with a new one. While engine is out put your L16 oil pan on the L20B engine. yes it is also a 4 speed That does not sound like too much work to switch it. I am planning on going to talk to the 620 guy this weekend. Just for fun he has a 1970 521 jmuch nicer than mine and a 280 z that he bouhgt new in highschool and some little datsun convertable ???? kind of a datsun guy I guess. I am bringing a battery some water some oil and some starting fluid just to see if it runs. He said it has been setting under a tree since 2012, thats when he drove it to where it now sets. It is not a bad truck other than the cracked windsheild the crunched right cab corner the rust the flat ties the interior the bed the .... (what am I saying I have a problem with saving old trucks). Quote Link to comment
dr.feltersnatch Posted July 26, 2014 Report Share Posted July 26, 2014 if you do decide to swap to the l20 be sure you get the flywheel with it. you will also need a new clutch the one from your l16 wont work. and like mike said you will have to switch the oil pan to the one you have now, other than that everything else should bolt on. watch the video and you will see these are easy motors. timing is not that hard. matchbox wiring is easy, read this http://community.ratsun.net/topic/50151-electronic-ignition-conversion-factory-datsun-matchbox/ Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 26, 2014 Report Share Posted July 26, 2014 There is no mystery to changing a HG on them. The engine is cranked to a known position (just in case, but not really needed) Timing chain blocked so the tensioner can't fall out. Gasket changed and everything put back. Done. Matchbox. You will need a wire from the ballast resister to the B terminal and one from the coil negative terminal to the C terminal on the matchbox module. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 26, 2014 Report Share Posted July 26, 2014 He said it has been setting under a tree since 2012, thats when he drove it to where it now sets. Which begs the question... just why was it parked??? Does it have any engine problems? Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted July 26, 2014 Report Share Posted July 26, 2014 Throw away the ballast resistor and get a coil to match the match box distributor. Grab one from any later model Datsun / Nissan car or truck. Quote Link to comment
pwrcat4000 Posted July 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2014 Which begs the question... just why was it parked??? Does it have any engine problems? It is a roll over the guy bought it for parts for his 521 specifically the radiator which of corse is different than the 521's that is why it is parked he was going to put it on craigs list. I think he has some health problems, He told me he can't be outhside too long in the heat, makes me think he has health problems. I have some pics of it here https://plus.google.com/photos/102854228448113106700/albums/6040534598446990609?authkey=CKvxjtOdjqu_1QE Quote Link to comment
pwrcat4000 Posted July 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2014 Considering this as an option from a 510 wagon assume it would go right in. http://community.ratsun.net/classifieds/item/4259-datsun-510-l16-engine-transmission-69/ Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 27, 2014 Report Share Posted July 27, 2014 Confirmed, it's a '79, four speed and still has the matchbox dizzy. The L20B will swap in but the transmission won't. This '69 L16 and four speed will pretty much 'drop in' to your 521. You will need your 521 oil pan and pick up tube. And a minor change to your driveshaft if you keep the '69 4 speed. Quote Link to comment
pwrcat4000 Posted July 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2014 King Rat, Long drive to oregon 350.00 or $200 and 30 min drive. I need to make a choice Let the procrastination begin LOL Quote Link to comment
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