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320 Turn signal switch help


Will_D

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Did they ever kick off after turning the wheel?  Mine doesn't, and I wondered if that was ever a feature at the time.

 

I haven't messed with mine, but it looks like a fairly simple mechanism with springs and clips and such that could just need lubed up. 

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I've taken mine entirely apart.  I didn't take any photos.  Some things off the top of my head.

 

There are two BB size balls with springs behind them that push into detents.  Work over a clutter-free surface with edges or cloth to catch stuff.  IIRC each detent holds the lever to one turn direction or the other.

 

There's another spring that keeps a small copper U shaped bar pressing against two of four contacts depending where the lever is.  That's the actual signal switch.  This bar can fit in two ways, probably depending on whether used in a RH or LH drive vehicle.  When the lever is in the middle position the bar should be over the two center contacts.

 

There are two "rocker" mechanisms.  Take note of where they are.  It's sort of obvious if you forget but will take some figuring out by watching.  It's hard to get these in place during reassembly but you can use friction and work the mechanisms with a small screwdriver blade as you reposition.

 

Get some conductive grease.  Put a very light coating on the U bar and contacts, and some on the copper ring the horn contact pushes onto.

 

Check with a tester before bothering to place on steering column.

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  • 2 years later...

Sorry to revive a super old thread but can anyone help direct me on pulling off a 320 turn signal switch? I pulled off the steering wheel and don't see any obvious ways to free the switch. I don't want to muscle it for fear of flying springs and ball bearings. 

There is a screw on the bottom of the cover that needs to be removed, then slide the cover towards the dash, now there are 2 screws on the opposite side of the turn signal lever that need to be loosened, I am assuming that you have already removed the steering wheel, the switch should just slide off the column towards you/away from the dash.

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Perfect! There was also a third screw on the lever side that needed to be loosened to come off. 

 

Does the key need to be engaged or does the truck have to be running for the turn signals to work? The signals haven't worked since I've had the truck so I'm not sure exactly what I'm working with. Also on the stock tail lights is it the bulb towards the inside of the bucket or outside of the bucket that blinks?

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Perfect! There was also a third screw on the lever side that needed to be loosened to come off. 

 

Does the key need to be engaged or does the truck have to be running for the turn signals to work? The signals haven't worked since I've had the truck so I'm not sure exactly what I'm working with. Also on the stock tail lights is it the bulb towards the inside of the bucket or outside of the bucket that blinks?

I didn't notice that 3rd screw, sorry about that, I just looked at one I have on the shelf.

In the US I believe that the outside section is the park lights/turn signals, the inside section is the brake lights, but I have lenses from overseas that has the turn signals on the inside(amber lens) and red on the outside(park/brake lights), so maybe I wired mine wrong, I am used to the 521 and NL320 type taillights which are different. 

The turn signals work when the key/ignition is on.

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My park lights are on the outside, turn sigs on the inside. Got a new signal switch installed and working, just have to deal with one burnt out bulb that's stuck in the socket. I'll see if I can free it up with some penetrating oil and buy a replacement. 

 

The top of my steering column cover is dry rotted but not all the way through. While it's off I'm thinking of sanding it down past the rot and then wet sanding it with a 2K grit paper to polish it back up. Has anyone tried to polish one back up?

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As I said, I might have wired mine wrong, I am used to the brake lights being on the inside like it is on the 521, my park lights are also on the outside.

As for the steering column cover, be careful with it, if it is really far gone I would suggest covering it with one of the modern coverings like Jrock did to his rear fender on his 510 that was at Canby, leacon also did a bumper I think, if put on properly I might look like new.

 

My park lights are on the outside, turn sigs on the inside. Got a new signal switch installed and working, just have to deal with one burnt out bulb that's stuck in the socket. I'll see if I can free it up with some penetrating oil and buy a replacement. 

 

The top of my steering column cover is dry rotted but not all the way through. While it's off I'm thinking of sanding it down past the rot and then wet sanding it with a 2K grit paper to polish it back up. Has anyone tried to polish one back up?

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Oh also this is the turn signal I purchased:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DATSUN-320-520-Pickup-Truck-Turn-Signal-Switch-NILES-Brand-JAPAN-NOS-/112086923643?hash=item1a18e6b97b:g:m2EAAOSwxg5X1Dpy&vxp=mtr

 

I know the original levers are all metal and the visible color when installed is grey not black but the signal above fit perfectly, has the same wire connections and wire colors, and works like new. It's a little spendy but I'm really happy with the purchase. I've been using hand signals since I got it running which gets old fast and pisses people off. 

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That switch is actually for a 520 but as you found out works perfectly in the 320.  The only difference int he 320 and 520 switch is the handle.  320 is flat and 520 is round.  What matters most is you do not have to stick your arm out the window any more!  LOL

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Does anyone have a picture of the coverings you're talking about?

I believe this is a photo of Jrocks 510, he put this plaid stick on covering something like pin stripping material to cover the rear corner panel.

I am positive that the material can be bought in just about any color you want.

IMG_7849_zpsagmbfgqd.jpg

Leacon(Jacob) also found some material that also is a stick on for bumpers and such, I cannot recall what it is called, but as I recall it was stretchable for corners to a point.

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I used a course sanding sponge to sand off the alligator skin crust and then wet sanded with 400 grit to get it uniform smooth. I used a little JB weld plastic repair putty (bought it at Ace Hardware) to fix a crack on the pictured screw hole. Once it was sanded smooth I gave it a dust of grey plastic bonding spray paint to hide the plastic repair and then wet sanded the whole thing with 1500 grit paper. It looks stock new--I'm super happy how it turned out. So happy I'm going to use the same method to do a steering wheel restoration. 

 

 

column_cover.jpg

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I used a grinder to cut out the flared out parts and I'm using JB Weld Plastic Putty to build it back up and fill in cracks. I think it's coming along OK but there's a mind numbing amount of sanding. 

 

In a couple days I'll post some before/after pics in the thread I started about my truck. 

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