mattyhacks71 Posted November 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2015 Oh hai, here's an update on Bamboozle. Pulled the head off, and plugged the leaking coolant ports with some 1/4 pipe plugs. I got them in as far as I confidently could, but they still stuck out quite a bit. Using a couple of different pads on the die grinder I got it flush with head surface. Pulled out the cam and the rockers, at this point the head went to the machine shop for some decking and valve stem seals. Got it back, installed a L20b cam, and new studs. New headgasket, got the head back on, also couldn't wait to install the new canon intake and the 40s :D When I was braking down the head this fitting for the heater core sapped off, and a wrecked the threads drilling it out, so I got the machine shop to drill and tap the head out to a 1/2 pipe thread, and got a couple brass fittings to replace it with. All back together Oh and it idles! Linkage still isn't function and the carbs need to be tuned, and I have no stacks or filters....and theres no muffler so its loud as fuck even at idle. http://vid1318.photobucket.com/albums/t657/mattyhacks/Mobile%20Uploads/VIDEO0086_zpsbec1uzcv.mp4 Cheers 7 Quote Link to comment
carterb Posted November 8, 2015 Report Share Posted November 8, 2015 Looking so nice! Dual carbs just look so right on an L motor. --carter 1 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted November 8, 2015 Report Share Posted November 8, 2015 Man that is pretty. Nice work Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted November 10, 2015 Report Share Posted November 10, 2015 your plugs didnt go in far enough cause you didnt run the TAP in far enuff to get the taper right. also you could have used the pipe plugs with the 1/4 inch allen wrench thats why they called 1/4 in plugs. Quote Link to comment
mattyhacks71 Posted November 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2015 You can't run the tap in that a far it bottoms out. Put silicon around the gasket so it shouldn't leak. Quote Link to comment
mattyhacks71 Posted November 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2015 I'm not sure if any of you guys are into this kind of stuff but I find it really neat. I have literally every receipt from the original and second owner of my car, the OG especially, they kept everything... Owners manual, ownership card and warranty/service booklet Original sales receipt!! $2706.75 what a bargain! Paint code 529, if I'm not mistaken that's bamboo tan B) Some work done at the dealer in the early 70s She was hit 2 or 3 times from the receipts I have, here's the first one in 1981 A battery in '74 Lastly this is the current body works receipt, they put the car away soon after ^says no paint, they went somewhere else cheaper :lol: Just tons of receipts! Like I said, they kept EVERYTHING. Fricken old people Boring crap, sorry for wasting your time dearest reader :fu: Cheers 3 Quote Link to comment
mattyhacks71 Posted November 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2015 And for reference, when the car was painted in 1998.....I was 3 years old hahaha 1 Quote Link to comment
510freak Posted November 20, 2015 Report Share Posted November 20, 2015 I knew I recognized your 510,thats Dave Pratts moms old 510. Quote Link to comment
mattyhacks71 Posted November 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2015 I knew I recognized your 510,thats Dave Pratts moms old 510. Holy crap you know Dora? She mentioned her son had a 510 as well. Is he active on any forums? Quote Link to comment
510freak Posted November 20, 2015 Report Share Posted November 20, 2015 I do.Dave sold his 510 quite a while back.Josh on Shawnigan lake had it for a few years. I bought it off him it had been neglected and pushed aside. Towed it home got it running etc. Sold it when we moved here(had 4 510s at the time 2011) Did she mention Dean or Chris there was quite a few of us back in the late 90s early 2k that did runs all the time.Most got all domesticated. And the 510s sat. Or were sold . Stil l have 2 and the wife's s110. Dean still has his.Chris kind of disappeared lol. 1 Quote Link to comment
Busta Nut Posted November 20, 2015 Report Share Posted November 20, 2015 I love all that old shit......bad ass Matt!! B) Quote Link to comment
tr8er Posted November 20, 2015 Report Share Posted November 20, 2015 My goon came with six or so small note pads listing every time the previous owner got gas. Gallons, mileage, fuel cost. Needless to say, all of the service info was also there. People once cared about stuff. Quote Link to comment
mattyhacks71 Posted December 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2015 My goon came with six or so small note pads listing every time the previous owner got gas. Gallons, mileage, fuel cost. Needless to say, all of the service info was also there. People once cared about stuff. That is unnecessary and awesome haha! The car is driving, but I'm dealing with the problem of sealing the lower thermostat housing to the head. Tried silicone, gasket, and both. Still ends up leaking and bubbling coolant on the exhaust manifold. I did get these in the mail. dellorto.co.uk has a good selection of velocity stacks, slide in bolt on whatever, they've got them and shipping is quick! Quote Link to comment
mattyhacks71 Posted December 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2015 This is the piece I'm talking about, side on the head above the exhaust mani. I used black RTV on both sides of a gasket I made from blue gasket paper. Was sealed until I got the motor pretty hot then it started to leak. Any suggestions for sealant? Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted December 2, 2015 Report Share Posted December 2, 2015 You could always try lapping the surfaces flat. Get a mirror or glass and put some lapping compound in it. Place the piece on the Glass and lap away, holding it flat firmly. Quote Link to comment
mattyhacks71 Posted December 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2015 I'm aware of the process and will be doing it when the part comes off again. Just wondering whats recommended to seal old Jap aluminium. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 2, 2015 Report Share Posted December 2, 2015 i just use the gasket ans very minimun amount of sealant. Thats it. if still bad soemthing is wrong. maybe there is a crack esp if One tried to remove the sender with the 16mm nut. usually cracks there. I just have a new lower housing with a new sender. As I could never get the senders out w/o cracking them Quote Link to comment
mattyhacks71 Posted December 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2015 There were indeed two hairline cracks, probably small enough to only leak when it got hot and expanded. Picked up a new lower and upper housing locally for 20 bucks. 1 Quote Link to comment
mattyhacks71 Posted February 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2016 Been buying fancy stuff recently. Heat shield from T3 Modified the PCV tube Looks good, got the stacks on too Basically I wasn't trusting the stock dummy gauge, so I picked up this autometer gauge set so I could monitor some stuff better. Conveniently there are two holes under the ash tray that line up perfect with the gauge mount. Got this Nardi for cheap, pretty sure it isn't fake Need to figure out a different tach, this cheapo one looks tacky (pun intended) For the new temp gauge, I used this cast iron upper thermostat housing that I bought for no reason about 3 months ago, it has a threaded hole in it from what I understand, was for something emissions related on the later motors. Had to drill the hole out bigger for the fitting. This way I still have my stock dummy gauge. For the oil pressure gauge, being its mechanical I had to find somewhere to plumb the nylon line into. Decided the easiest thing to do was utilize stock pressure sender location. Used a 1/8" BSP to 1/8" NPT adapter, to a T fitting. Bought a standard 5-8 PSI 1/8" NPT sender (less than 15 bucks at Lordco) to keep the stock dummy light. No pics on the motor sorry, looks a little bulky but not awful overall. 5 Quote Link to comment
mattyhacks71 Posted February 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2016 Here's whats to come, more fancy stuff. Techno Toy Tuning front coilover sleeve kit with 250 rate springs and some used Cusco camber plates. I'm quite impressed by how nice the coilovers are^ Gabriel at T3 is great, anyone that has dealt with them will know they are more than willing to answer any questions, and in my case, help you problem solve and figure out what you'll need to make your parts work. And this was exciting, won these Watanabes pretty cheap. 14x6.5 +15 I think will work nicely on the front, after test fitting these I'll go ahead and order another pair probably 7" wide for the rear. I've got connections with a paint shop so they'll get repainted the factory satin black. 4 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted February 19, 2016 Report Share Posted February 19, 2016 Wow, you've been busy! Nice!!! 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 19, 2016 Report Share Posted February 19, 2016 those wheels are cool. The oil line is correct what you have wit the T to run the stock lamp also. But use a Autometer brand if you run a plastic line. I know autogauge is cheap Taiwan if not china by now stuff. The Cheap lines will crack over time due to heat cycles when you touch them later(I know!!!!!!!!!!) One Datsun I had a big braded line was fast response but over 20years this too failed me and when back to stock sender as I would want this breaking on a long trip. the temp sender will or might give a false reading as your reading on the cold side of the state housing. so when it opens youll read HIGH then when it closes will get cooler (but heating back up on the hot side and wont see that . So I assume your going to keep the stock sender anyways and get a average from both. 1 Quote Link to comment
mattyhacks71 Posted February 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2016 those wheels are cool. The oil line is correct what you have wit the T to run the stock lamp also. But use a Autometer brand if you run a plastic line. I know autogauge is cheap Taiwan if not china by now stuff. The Cheap lines will crack over time due to heat cycles when you touch them later(I know!!!!!!!!!!) One Datsun I had a big braded line was fast response but over 20years this too failed me and when back to stock sender as I would want this breaking on a long trip. the temp sender will or might give a false reading as your reading on the cold side of the state housing. so when it opens youll read HIGH then when it closes will get cooler (but heating back up on the hot side and wont see that . So I assume your going to keep the stock sender anyways and get a average from both. Yeah I'd like to get some nicer looking line eventually. I do have more of the nylon but it looks tacky. Yeah that's the plan. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 19, 2016 Report Share Posted February 19, 2016 the line I had came in a BIG spool so when I routeds it it was more or less staright not in a curly Q shap running in the engine bay 1 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted February 19, 2016 Report Share Posted February 19, 2016 I have 720 oil pressure and voltage gauges in my 510. Currently i have them in a 720 center console, but i don't think I'm keeping that. I like them because of simple clean look and they match pretty well with the 510 gauges (and I already had then and I'm cheap). Plus the 720 sender is electronic, i don't like having an oil line into the cabin. It also controls the dummy light, all in one. Wow this last photo sucks more than I thought it did. 1 Quote Link to comment
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