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#41 volkswagner

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Posted 14 February 2015 - 10:53 PM

6 months since my last post, whoops. Lets catch up.
I couldn't stand the smoke the new rebuild was putting out.
All indicators pointed to bad rings even though they were brand new. Back to the tent.
IMG_20141004_113913_806.jpg

I didn't take any pictures of this job. It's a real pain to get a hold of a cherry picker and scary to set it up on soft dirt.
I decided to leave the block in for the re-ring job. There is some discussion in the ring sticky thread about doing this and everyone seems to think it is a waste of time.
After pulling the motor and doing rings and then a month later leaving the block in and doing rings, my opinion is;
If all you are doing is rings (no honing, crank replacement, etc.) it was WAY faster/easier for me to leave the block in the car, pull the head, and drop in the new piston setups.
I've driven the motor a few hundred miles now with no Smoke. Bad aftermarket rings, improper installation? not sure which one.




 



#42 volkswagner

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Posted 14 February 2015 - 11:16 PM

As I said before, I was getting some major drive line rub due to my ride height.
Here is my initial tunnel cut out.
IMG_20141012_185416_167.jpg

This hole was not large enough, it had to be widened.
Here is the cover panel that got welded in.
IMG_20150113_172321_772.jpg

I only wanted to modify under the seat.
After driving around some more, it turns out this is not sufficient.
Due to the larger diameter wagon driveling, there is still rubbing under acceleration. It rubs the tunnel just in front of the seat bulkhead.
Maybe I will do more tunnel mod.s later on. Right now I plan to angle lowering block and hammer in the problem area.

For those curious, I currently have stock main leaf, second leaf, and third leaf as well as another second leaf flipped and .5" lowering blocks with 3 degrees of angle.
That gets me sitting a couple inches higher in the rear than whats shown above.



 

 



#43 volkswagner

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Posted 14 February 2015 - 11:35 PM

Next I tackled the interior...
After gutting and cutting out rot, This was my starting point.
IMG_20141230_143842_447.jpg

 

patch panels welded in.
IMG_20150113_172316_128.jpg

 

Grind away the rust.
IMG_20150113_172242_082.jpg

 

Mask, lay down epoxy primer on the bare metal, and apply aluminum window flashing to the panels without stock sound deadening.
The window flashing worked very well once some heat from a heat gun was applied. I couldn't smell any tar odor even while meting it with the gun, maybe I just have a bad sense of smell.
IMG_20150116_142105_474.jpg

 

High build primer on the going to be visible areas and the color/clear, poor picture quality.
IMG_20150116_171845_901.jpg

 



#44 volkswagner

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Posted 14 February 2015 - 11:53 PM

I wanted to route my power cable to the rear mounted battery a bit better.
I brought it through the firewall, into a grommet into the rocker panel, out of a grommet out of the rocker and clamped it down as it went to the back. The end result works well.
IMG_20150125_113607_130.jpg

Next, came carpet.
I searched amazon and found a dense carpet padding that is made of fibers and is rubber backed for easier gluing.
http://www.amazon.co...0?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I was really satisfied with this and it was more than enough for my entire floor pan.
IMG_20150125_091348_122.jpg

Then I went to Loews and got black outdoor carpet off of their giant rolls. It's a cheap option and the quality is cheap.
I installed the carpet with contact cement and burned out holes for the seat belt mounts and seat brackets using an old soldering iron. This left nice singed tight holes.
IMG_20150203_180945_222.jpg

 

I got these miata seats off craigslist for a good deal. I am looking to do a brown/black interior so they fit the scheme nicely.
Mounting was straight forward. I just drilled holes in the miata rails to mount to the stock brackets, then drilled new holes in the floor to move the stock brackets to the appropriate locations for the miata rails. no pictures of this process.
IMG_20140818_191946_426.jpg

This is the latest picture I have,

IMG_20150203_201511_916.jpg

 

The interior is now mostly back together, I will have to get more recent photos.



#45 volkswagner

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Posted 15 February 2015 - 12:01 AM

A note on noise:
I am trying to reduce the noise level in the wagon since it was almost unbearable on the highway.
I will be tracking my progress using a decibel meter app on my phone. Is this highly accurate? no but I don't care, I just want relative measurements to tell me how much I'm improving, I think an app will be fine for this.

As It was prior to any interior work:
Cruising (60 mph on the highway)   91dB
Full throttle (from 60 mph on the highway) 93dB

Currently:
Cruising   87dB
Full Throttle 90dB

This is very noticeable in the car!
I think patching the rust holes in the floor right next to the exhaust leak really helped.
Other major contributors, nearly no door seals and 4 speed.
 



#46 Spoona_Jay21

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Posted 15 February 2015 - 01:36 AM

Love teh work on this man! I like how you routed your Battery lead, and what you used to fasten it all down. much better than alot I have seen. :thumbup:

 

What is your plan with all the green bits? is the car goin to go green in the future(may have just missed the explanation) or are you goin to pull the interior later for repaint? :confused:

 

oh! and A+ on the decibel ideer. most people just dynamat and call it good, and if it is too loud just deal with it :rofl:



#47 fisch

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Posted 15 February 2015 - 07:15 AM

Great informative thread here!

#48 volkswagner

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Posted 15 February 2015 - 10:10 AM

Yep, the whole car will be green when finished, the engine bay, under hood, trunk jams and exposed interior metal are now all painted.
I am waiting until the entire exterior is body worked so I can do one uninterrupted spray there.



#49 volkswagner

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Posted 22 March 2015 - 12:54 AM

I got a bit more of the interior in, reinstalled the rear bench back rest (still need to modify the bench for the tunnel), put the rubber cargo mat back in and rear panels.
My helper wanted to be in the picture.
IMG_20150221_132939_801.jpg
 

I came across a barn sale that had a pile of someones leftover project parts. In it was a few new in box Mopar seals.
For $5 I grabbed one that looked like it had potential for my trunk. Turns out they are about $70 new using the part number that was on the box.
IMG_20150307_162058_251.jpg

 

It clipped on to the inner jam of my hatch area really well. and was long enough to wrap all the way around.
IMG_20150307_162237_281.jpg

 

There was an extra bit of seal that sticks out on the inside and seamed useless. I started pullling and it tore of straight and easy.
IMG_20150307_162632_466.jpg

 

Along the bottom edge I had to bend the seal into a 90 deg. This lets me slip the seal under the stock metal edge trim to screw it in place.
IMG_20150307_163645_180.jpg

I was satisfied with the end result. I do have to slam my trunk hard to get it to latch but I'm OK with that.
IMG_20150307_165114_126.jpg

IMG_20150307_164420_599.jpg
IMG_20150307_165050_662.jpgIMG_20150307_165248_257.jpg

 

 

 

I also finally got around to finishing my hood strut conversion.
I used mcmaster-carr Parts:  4138T55 and 9512K15

IMG_20150307_161320_499.jpg

IMG_20150307_161335_528.jpg

 

The 90 lb spring seems perfect to me, it falls on its own when shut but holds itself up when open.
I mounted mine a bit to close however so the strut bottoms out just before it is fully shut, it still works but I may address this later as it is pushing my hood out of whack a bit.

 

This is the neutral position, any higher and it opens, any lower and it shuts.
IMG_20150307_161227_851.jpg

 



#50 volkswagner

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Posted 22 March 2015 - 01:43 AM

As I showed earlier, when I repacked my leaf springs I only got close to the ride height I wanted. The rear was still about 1.5" higher than the rear.
As well even though I cut out my tunnel, I was still getting drive line rubbing under acceleration and hard bumps.
I decided to try and solve both of these problems at once.
The solution has 2 parts. traction bars and angled shims.
I noticed that with my modified leaf packs (stock 1st, 2nd, 3rd leaf with flipped additional 2nd leaf bolted on top.) My leafs actually bend upward just slightly at rest.
I also noticed that the frame rail is breifly only a few inches away from the leafs in the front.
This gave me the idea to bolt a bar on top of my leafs that would extend forward to meet the frame rail.
Then when the diff rotates under acceleration or moves upward over a large bump, the bars would hit the frame and stop the drive line from grinding on the tunnel.

 

Here are the bars I cam e up with to fit my car.
IMG_20150321_131834_035.jpg

 

They are made from 1.5" x 1.5" x .188" tube stock which calculates to only .006" of deflection given 120 ft-lb torque on the diff and a saftey factor of 20.
It's overkill but it was easy to get a hold of.
I would have preferred something wider so that it better matched the 2.375" leaf width.
I could supply the excel sheet for calculating the safety factor and deflection of a chosen material if anyone is interested.

The rubber bump stop is there to stop the rods from slamming the frame, they can also be adjusted to give more/less clearance to the frame rail.
The through hole is for the leaf pack bolt since I bolted these into the leaf pack so that they wouldn't move over time. Honestly, bolting them in sucked because without load the leafs bend the other direction. So you have to clamp the bars to the pack to straighten it out and bolt it in.
This hole is 15.5" from the end of the tube (which is flush with the end of the bump stop)

IMG_20150321_191433_699.jpg
 

I used 9 degree spacers. In retrospect, 6 degrees would probably be better, there seems to be clearance for it and it would give better CV alignment.
IMG_20150321_195604_200.jpg

This puts, the bar in the position shown. when at rest on the ground.
IMG_20150321_202354_935.jpg

The video show at first me just pushing on the suspension which moves the leafs but does not engage the bars such as normal driving.
Then I jump on the rear which engages the bars such as over a large bump or under acceleration.

https://www.youtube....eature=youtu.be

and this is my current ride height. It is on 13's for reference.
IMG_20150321_221627_233.jpg



#51 fisch

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Posted 22 March 2015 - 06:34 AM

Great ride height! You are making me think about 13's for my wagon now.



#52 volkswagner

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Posted 22 March 2015 - 09:29 AM

I cut off the bump stop peanuts on the frame rails, so at this point there is still about 2in of suspension travel until the diff housing hits a trunk floor strut.



#53 TENDRIL

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Posted 22 March 2015 - 10:01 AM

IMG_20150307_165114_126.jpg

 

this is awesome! did you use any glue?


Datsuns will 20 buck u to death


#54 volkswagner

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Posted 22 March 2015 - 10:30 AM

No glue, it has a metal core so it grips the frame well. We'll see if it wears in and need glue later.



#55 Dirttrack510

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Posted 29 March 2015 - 03:48 PM

:poop: This build makes me wanna build my wagon :crying: It'd be a SERIOUS CHALLENGE though :sick:



#56 The Taterhead

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Posted 31 March 2015 - 08:52 AM

Looking good so far.

Just an FYI: that rubber backing on the padding you used can trap moisture under it.
Roads? Where we're goin' we don't need roads!

#57 Dirttrack510

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Posted 06 April 2015 - 10:50 AM

Hey, I just went to your youtube page. Is that a cassette player and you just slide your phone in to the slot and the tape player picks up the sound from your phone? Did you have to modify the car sterio?

#58 volkswagner

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Posted 12 April 2015 - 02:19 PM

Yep, that's exactly what it is.
I spliced a male audio jack into the tape player right before the amplifiers and then mounted it so that it would engage my phones audio jack when I pushed it in.
The phone plays signal to the amplifier, you can then use the tape player knobs to change the volume, bass, etc.
The tape player then sends the signal to the speaker. No modification to the car speaker system.



#59 volkswagner

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Posted 12 April 2015 - 02:20 PM

Looking good so far.

Just an FYI: that rubber backing on the padding you used can trap moisture under it.

 

 

 Hmmm, didn't think of that. Good thing I don't live in a wet climate.... oh wait.



#60 volkswagner

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Posted 18 October 2015 - 07:55 PM

I managed to talk Jeff Hino into helping me respray the wagon.
And by respray I of course mean cut off both quarter panels, along with both rocker panels, fix the underlying rot, weld on replacements panels, body work all of the new panels, strip the roof to metal, remove the doors, remove the windows, strip and paint the jams, reinstall the doors, align all the panels, "fix" all of my shabby bodywork I have been doing to this point, block, the whole car and then spray.
We figured if we both did one side it couldn't possible take more than 2 or 3 weeks... 
 
 
We started with the easy part, cutting the car to pieces.
okSyo7a.jpg 
nJqhTTO.jpg 
Then welding on better panels.
OF8Teig.jpg 
fqCEILy.jpg 
More grinding away of 4 decades of resprays.
Pv9mBsa.jpg 
epoxy primer
eTVg55p.jpg 
it puts the filler on, it sands the filler off, it puts the filler on, it sands the filler off.
b8JKHVN.jpg 
primer over the body work, paint in the jams, and rehang the doors.
klFWU5C.jpg 
align all the panels.
IcJBUnc.jpg 
More bodywork, more primer.
Ed9j2uR.jpg 
more body work, more primer
ju3aYwY.jpg 
wetsand
2ERCbZf.jpg 
 
 
and finally... color.
bjtzRzw.jpg 
https://goo.gl/photo...RxzqNXM627yjiN7

And several months later, its now time to reassemble.