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#101 KELMO

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Posted 30 October 2017 - 09:57 AM

I have no idea how I could have missed this thread, just went through it and damn, what a transformation and inspiration.  Time to get the grey 1200 up and running so I can get working on the goon.

 

Damned fine goon you got there.


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"Well, primer gray IS a color..." (quote: Kelmo's wife)

#102 tr8er

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Posted 30 October 2017 - 10:12 AM

It's a pretty great build

#103 volkswagner

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Posted 26 January 2018 - 11:38 PM

The race was a lot of fun for the first half of the day. The LSD was certainly a bit tricky to get used to. However, I could really notice the stiffer coil overs that were reinstalled in the rear. Much too stiff, but the real problem is their lack of droop. As shown by the fun pic below which sums the problem up neatly.
BQEB9eh.jpg?1

 

And whose that weaving through the back mine field?

qYxNzHy.jpg

 

 

Now, I said it was a lot of fun for the first half of the day. The fun ended when i heard the unmistakable rod knock of my bottom end after coming down the finishing straight away.

I *may* have used that nifty ignition timer to advance my spark a tad much..

Engine rebuild time! again :blush:



#104 volkswagner

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Posted 04 February 2018 - 08:57 PM

Yoink.

ImMrDgo.jpg?1



#105 ]2eDeYe

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Posted 05 February 2018 - 06:37 AM

Are you sticking with an L or are you swapping in something a little more entertaining? 


Smokin' Joe's House of Datto's

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Whenever I think that I'm out of my mind for putting this much time and money into an old Datsun, all I have to do is look some of your threads to know that I'm not nearly as whack as you are.

You're going to skin a few knuckles, stand up too fast and bump your head, hunt around the floor for the nuts and bolts you dropped, invent a few new cuss words and when you're finished you'll say "That wasn't so hard after all!"


#106 volkswagner

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Posted 09 February 2018 - 11:27 PM

Are you sticking with an L or are you swapping in something a little more entertaining? 

 

Well, last I posted the SR20VE was torn down and being test fit onto the RWD block. 
Then as they tend to do, funds dried up and that is exactly how the project has sat for the last 6 months.

Now it seems the Goon is forcing my hand.

My first plan was to just swap the L block and keep driving until I built up the VE. 
After a couple months and no motivation to start the L rebuild, I finally realized, I just don't want to. I've done it enough times and it's just too unsatisfying.

 

So the decision was made, NA SR20VE is going in next, even if it means the wagons is off the road for awhile.

 

The irony is that I tore the FWD assembly apart to swap on to the RWD block. Which would be fine If I didn't come in possession of these just after that.

lybhVKd.jpg?1
A KA tranny adapted to an L bell housing, and an adapter to fit a FWD SR20 to an L transmission.
This meaning that if I had these parts sooner I could have never tore it down in the first place. 

Oh well such is life. 

Now I have this pile of parts waiting for me to make some decisions and get started. RWD S14 DET block on the stand, VE FWD block in the bag under the bench, P11 head on the bench, cardboard box full of rebuild seal, rings, bearings, OEM HG, and 3 flip top bins and a milk crate full of VE and DET manifolds, accessories, engine internals, etc.
OZz45ZG.jpg

 

Really there are two routes RWD or FWD block. The RWD block requires a bit more modifications to build up and really doesn't give any benefits besides bolting up to a RWD tranny which I don't have. So since I am try to get this done as simply an cheaply as possible, here's the plan.

Stock FWD long block build up, I'll only get new bearings/seals for all my tear down build up efforts unfortunately.
Then chop the VE intake manifold flange and weld it to the DET manifold in order to get the throttle body oriented correctly.
DET exhasut manifold with down pipe run up the the turbo flange, not ideal but that can be on the short list for upgrading later.

Megasquirt to run the EFI. 

And then that leaves the components the will hit the firewall as the last big thing to sort out.
The CAS and the VVL solenoids.
I could cut pockets into the firewall but, that's obviously not my first choice.

Instead, I think I'll go with the solution TAARX offers for the CAS,  https://www.efisolut...t-sr16ve-sr20ve

They have a relocation kit for the solenoids as well, but I'm not a fan of the oil lines running everywhere, I'm gonna take a stab at my own adapter block.

 

Motivation  :D 
v9uYMB1.jpg
  




  

 

 

 



#107 volkswagner

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Posted 09 February 2018 - 11:49 PM

One of the oldest installed JBC kits and surely the dirtiest JBC crossmember in existence. Now on it's way out to make room for a Version 3 kit.

Don't worry though, the kit has plenty of life left and it's headed straight into Swamp Thing.

 

qgvGqwU.jpg



#108 ]2eDeYe

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Posted 10 February 2018 - 06:42 AM

Gonna be one fast wagon. :devil:


Smokin' Joe's House of Datto's

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Member- *Japanese Trucking Association*

**DATSUN FAQ** ~ If ya know it, post it ~ If ya don't know it, learn it ~

ratsun.net rising sun stickers                     ratsun business cards order thread

620 KA24 Motor Mount Swap Brackets

1977 620 KingCab Deluxe KA24DE Swap - Refresh and cleanup
1978 620 kingcab 4x4 - KA24E SAS w/Dana 44 front and Toyota rear

1967 RL411 Station Wagon

 

Whenever I think that I'm out of my mind for putting this much time and money into an old Datsun, all I have to do is look some of your threads to know that I'm not nearly as whack as you are.

You're going to skin a few knuckles, stand up too fast and bump your head, hunt around the floor for the nuts and bolts you dropped, invent a few new cuss words and when you're finished you'll say "That wasn't so hard after all!"


#109 qship510

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Posted 10 February 2018 - 10:20 AM

Why use the KA transmission? Aren't the internals the same as a late 280ZX trans anyway? No driveshaft or crossmember mods that way



#110 Icehouse

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Posted 10 February 2018 - 10:53 AM

Can't wait to go for a ride!!!!!  hurry up Sam!  

 

We gotta find my extra B&M shifter for that trans!  


"People don't like it when shit doesn't match their rule of thumb."    Sam


#111 volkswagner

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Posted 10 February 2018 - 12:56 PM

Sorry, a bit of false advertising.

I'm actually planning on just leaving the Stubby 5 speed out of the 720 in there. I love the ratios. Except 5th could be taller. 
FWD SR and 5 spd, All on a Stock wagon drive shaft  :thumbup:  

Also forgot to point out that leaving the RWD block out means that once the NA is in there, I have the option to build up a turbo shortblock with an SR trans to headswap and drop in later if I go that route. All without taking the wagon off the road for very long.



#112 volkswagner

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Posted 03 March 2018 - 07:17 PM

Deshrouded and smoother out the bowls a bit.

2ry3sqx.jpg

 

Started reassembling, was lucky enough to have a helper put the VVL Crabs in.
2my1dg6.jpg

 

VE rebuild, so easy a 4 year old can do it. Seriously though, the rocker mounting system is way better an these than the typical 
SR's. Impossible to fly off too!

7eNQWS3.jpg

 

 

It made me feel a bit better when I went to change the rings and found the oilers all clogged up like this, makes me feel like I'm not rebuilding for nothing. 
Leads to the question, why are these SO clogged with carbon since the rest of the engine was really clean? 
Could it have to do with it being an automatic car that boggs a lot?

r7w56o.jpg

But then I went to put the new ring in on the right. Way too thick! In fact the first and second ring were too thick as well?
Turns out Nissan switched all the SR's to a new thin ring version piston for 2000-2001. I bought my rings for a 1999... uhg. New rings on order.
 

 



#113 ]2eDeYe

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Posted 04 March 2018 - 10:19 AM

Handy having a helper, no matter the size. :)

 

 

Can you bring the alternator brackets on Tuesday? I'll have it back to you fairly quickly. 


Smokin' Joe's House of Datto's

gJv38AY.jpg
Member- *Japanese Trucking Association*

**DATSUN FAQ** ~ If ya know it, post it ~ If ya don't know it, learn it ~

ratsun.net rising sun stickers                     ratsun business cards order thread

620 KA24 Motor Mount Swap Brackets

1977 620 KingCab Deluxe KA24DE Swap - Refresh and cleanup
1978 620 kingcab 4x4 - KA24E SAS w/Dana 44 front and Toyota rear

1967 RL411 Station Wagon

 

Whenever I think that I'm out of my mind for putting this much time and money into an old Datsun, all I have to do is look some of your threads to know that I'm not nearly as whack as you are.

You're going to skin a few knuckles, stand up too fast and bump your head, hunt around the floor for the nuts and bolts you dropped, invent a few new cuss words and when you're finished you'll say "That wasn't so hard after all!"


#114 volkswagner

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Posted 04 March 2018 - 01:22 PM

Yep, got it pulled out of the bins and ready to go.



#115 volkswagner

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Posted 31 March 2018 - 09:35 PM

In they go, new rings worked out and crank/piston went in. All seemed good.

IMG_7226.jpg

 

 

ARP studs that I got when I picked up the DET block.
IMG_7374.jpg

 

Then I started back on the head... This wound up taking MUCH more time than anticipated. The problem, these heads have shimmed valve clearances, no adjusting screw. This means that in order to get the appropriate clearances, the shims would need to be ground to thickness. 
I was originally not going to grind the valves because of this exact reason. Then I measured my clearances as it was. Way out of tolerance, not even consistent. 
This made obvious that I WOULD be grinding shims either way. So might as well make the most of it and grind valve seats first.

 

Removed the valves and this is what it looks like, makes me glad I actually ended up doing this, the seats were so much worse than I thought.
IMG_7301.jpg

 

New favorite way top grind, rubber bump stop chucked in the drill, worked very well.

IMG_7310.jpg

 

Mucho Betteritto.

IMG_7320.jpg
 

Already here, better take some data for the future.

IMG_7334.jpg

IMG_7337.jpg

 

45CC in the bowl, 5CC in the cylinder.

Calculates out to 10:1 compression as advertised. Nice to know how much of the compressed volume is in the head for future piston choices though. 

 

 



#116 volkswagner

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Posted 31 March 2018 - 09:50 PM

Valves ground, now back to the shims, uhg.
 

Even getting the baseline measurements represented several installs and removal of the cams. The complication being that the valve pairs in each cylinder share a crab rocker arm. This means that measureing the clearance is affected by the neighboring valve. Had to install with half the shims installed, measure, uninstall, swap shims and repeat. 

 

The kid needed some practice writing numbers. He became my clearance recording technician for the evening,

IMG_7390.jpg

Took the baseline measurements and calculated the needed material to be removed from the shim pads to gain desired clearances at each location.

Lucky that work has a surface grinder.
IMG_7383.jpg

 

Reinstalled, measured again, found a few outliers, uninstalled and re ground the stragglers. 
Built up now with 0.014" exhaust clearances and 0.10" intake clearances +- 0.0005: or so. 
Phew, glad to be dine with that... Probably had the cams in and out 10 times total.