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Civic SI EP3 Hatch.


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I havent posted anything about my daily since being on here, so here it is. Its manual like all SI of course,  2.0 liter K20A3 engine, 160 hp, 131 ft lb. I am gonna get newer pics soon, I need to give the car a wash. In this pic you can see that some dickbag has stolen my front grill. I have a new one now, but I drove like that for like a year til I found an OEM one for a good price.

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Theres quite a bit done to it, but most of it is pretty hidden, I do not like showy, OR RICEY HONDAS. I FUCKING HATE THAT HORSESHIT.

 

I have had the car since July of 09, and I dont plan on getting rid of it. heres a list of mods.

 

Lenso TE38 (wheels it came with, I am not a fan of knock offs, but they are at least nice knock offs and I get a ton of compliments on them, I am saving for real wheels)

SS brake lines

Drop engineering driver, rear and front motor mounts

Avid new design Passenger motor mount.

Energy Suspension Master Bushing Kit.

Buddy Club extended ball joints (roll center adjuster)

Ingalls rear adjustable upper control arm

rear 22mm sway bar

rear subframe brace

front 15mm sway bar

Mishimoto radiator, Gates hoses (Gates everything associated with the cooling system)

Odyssey PC680 battery relocated in cabin.

Cat delete.

Fujita short ram

larger, heat wrapped header

K20A2 RSX TYPE S 310cc injectors

Aluminium fuel rail.

K24A1 engine swap

thermal intake manifold gasket

other BS I cant think of

 

The K20A3 engine started to get a tiny head gasket leak around 240,000 miles (totally my fault, used non Honda coolant and didnt take care of it)

So I bought a CRV K24A1 engine (2.4 liter :w00t: ) from LKQ.

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This happened back in like the end of march-ish

 

Yes I did have that ugly ricey yellow hose in there, lol.

CAC7CC13-F522-4F3E-A3AE-D70E9AF27B52-664

 

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And the old K20A3 is out.

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Its actually a lot easier to work on than it looks

36FD25B3-5690-4859-8EA4-24C81118BB73-137

 

Trans separated, Very expensive trans I might add, thats why it still feels brand spanking new at 240,000 and now 270+k miles.

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On any brand, Always use Manufacturer sealants.

899604D3-73C0-45A0-A1F7-762A40529BD8-137

Thermal Intake manifold Gasket, (someone needs to make these for L series, seriously)

C816FCBD-7486-48B6-A511-61C2BA89AEC4-137

mmmmmmmm, delicious

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Trans attached and in the air

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and bam. a few hours later it was in. Didnt take many pictures on reassembly, since we were busy.

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I have had suspension issues on/off since like the second year I had it. The guy before me had put Skunk2 Pro S coilovers on, they handled okay, until one of the fronts blew. With limited funds and a good set of coilovers in the back still I opted to just replace the front with another set of Skunk2 that they sold me at a good discount.

 

About a year later, the rear skunk started leaking, though the dampening was fine, I didnt want leaky shocks so I found a set of Koni rears for really cheap, brand new. I mounted them on Sprint springs and rode them and they handled great. Had them in for a year and one of the front Skunk2s started to wear. I didnt notice anything while driving but I pulled my wheel off for something else one day and noticed that the damper rod was somewhat loose in the shock body, not leaking and not causing a problem.

 

I took that as a warning and bought Koni fronts. I already had the springs from Sprint so install wasnt too bad. I just had to cut up a set of RSX knuckles to slide the Koni dampers into.

 

I installed the Koni's specifically how Koni explains to in their instructions. That was where everything went wrong. I had them in and when the car was sitting, installed to Koni's specs, they give you just under an inch of damper travel. That is not going to work on a lowered car. The ride was terrible, absolutely terrible, and then one of the dampers (after a few months of abuse) came apart. God, IDK what car these particular dampeners get installed in in that maner, but someone needs to visit Koni and tell them they are fooking this particular set up bad.

 

To add insult to injury, somebody on Grassroots Motorsports already figured this out and found a solution, the solution is to not listen to Koni's instructions and mount them in the original knuckle an inch lower than specified. If only I had found that before. UGH.

 

So to make a point to my long winded post about suspension issues I am now installing something else, I have been tooling around on the old Skunk2 fronts for a few weeks now and they were about to go too.

 

So I picked these up for CHEAP from a very good buddy who works for Hasport. He had only 4k miles on them and his EP got wrecked. They are still under warranty for 2 more years.

The build quality is spectacular. Dampeners are made in a quality controlled facility in Taiwan and the rest is made in the USA.

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Oh man, I am so jealous flatcat. I used to have a 94 5 speed Ex, hunter green. It was one of my favorite cars ever. My dad bought it new and passed it on to me. It had 274k miles on it and it ran like a top, great power too. It was still on the original clutch believe it or not.

 

One day while driving to school on a 3 lane roadway, somebody in the left hand turning lane (not a travel lane) decided that all of a sudden in rush hour traffic, they needed to make a right hand turn.

 

I have been very sad about it ever since.

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nice, pretty clean :thumbup:  what wheels were you gunna get?

I am not sure yet. I really like the Honda Cromadoras but they are +60 offset, so in order to run them I have to switch the entire suspension to DC5 Integra Type R, You do get brembos and aluminium control arms though. This was going to be my route until recently when I have been short on funds.

 

I have looked into the  RPF1, but I keep hearing that they bend like butter. I also really like Gram Light 57s.

 

I am in limbo in the wheels department, Im open to suggestions honestly, they just have to be in +45 offset. (or 60 if I am gonna go JDM fanboy crazy, lol)

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I am not sure yet. I really like the Honda Cromadoras but they are +60 offset, so in order to run them I have to switch the entire suspension to DC5 Integra Type R, You do get brembos and aluminium control arms though. This was going to be my route until recently when I have been short on funds.

 

I have looked into the  RPF1, but I keep hearing that they bend like butter. I also really like Gram Light 57s.

 

I am in limbo in the wheels department, Im open to suggestions honestly, they just have to be in +45 offset. (or 60 if I am gonna go JDM fanboy crazy, lol)

 

smaller xxr 527 look cool (I know you hate knockoffs, so get the real brand lol)

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I would love to have real WedsSport TC105Ns, But I dont got the durs for either real or fake quite yet. Plus I havent decided if I stay with +45 offset when I go 5 lug, or if I wanna go +60.

 

 

I mainly hate fakes because, you just save for the fakes 3 times and you got the real thing, Patience.

 

 

I drool over real wheels.

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I would love to have real WedsSport TC105Ns, But I dont got the durs for either real or fake quite yet. Plus I havent decided if I stay with +45 offset when I go 5 lug, or if I wanna go +60.

 

 

I mainly hate fakes because, you just save for the fakes 3 times and you got the real thing, Patience.

 

 

I drool over real wheels.

 

yeah those would look fresh. :cool:

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  • 3 weeks later...

One of my Lenso wheels is bent. This is all of a sudden, I didn't think I hit anything except road bumps.

 

This is why you dont buy fake fucking wheels. End of story. The worst part is that Lenso, are actually really good fakes, much better than Rota, and guess what, still bent.

 

Moral of the story is if its cheap, thats what its worth. At least I didnt put them on the car though, They came with it

 

I am now saving for a set of Honda Cromadoras and Brembo 4 pot calipers with a 5 lug swap and aluminum front control arms (all stock DC5R).

 

Here are the wheels I want. They are made for Honda by Cromadora in Italy. Crazy nutbar +60 offset though which necessitates the Brembo swap

http://www.ebay.com/itm/360721397676?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

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  • 3 weeks later...

Ding Ding Ding Dong.

 

Its christmas time for me (I guess the last post was an example of that too) I have been saving for this for years, and on christmas eve it has become mine!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Hondata Kpro.

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We already raised the redline to 7100 rpm and edited the KAL file for the 310cc injectors, current base mad has much more ignition and valve timing.

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Been messing with the Kpro for a week now, It is amazing how many parameters a modern standalone ECU has in it. I can change every level of every parameter on here. Not just fuel/ignition/VVT/Vtec, but I can do things like tell the fans to come one with engine temp (instead of relying on the relay sensor), It has launch control/anti-lag/synchro shift/full throttle shift options, it allows me to rear both voltage and amperage going through the car instantly, Hell, I can even tell you how much pressure is in the fuel tank!. let alone being the ultimate standalone, this is the ultimate diagnostic tool as well. Worth every penny (and there were a lot of pennies...). Heres a screen shot of the Kmanager menus.

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Both my 5 lug JDM Civic Type R complete suspension, and my Buddy Club extended lower ball joints should be coming in tomorrow. But unfortunately I am waiting for my other DC5 Type S axle until tuesday, so I will not be 5 lug with the 5Zigens until next week unfortunately.

 

I installed a new intake tube and filter yesterday, Slightly smaller tube at 2.75 instead of 3.00, but the velocity increase should help torque throughout the rpm range. More pics soon.

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