captaingamez Posted March 6, 2014 Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 Idk what is up with all the people with broken TC rods, all I can think is that their either damaged or badly designed from factory on 510, most of this I am hearing about 510s, not Zs. Poly vs a steel rod, should pretty much never result in the steel rod failing, unless something else is wrong. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 6, 2014 Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 poly dont let rod flex causes it to bind then break over time<br />the T# is steel but has heim joints so all the movment goes there.<br />Pay the 200 bucks. Its worth it in the end and get the T3. Quote Link to comment
captaingamez Posted March 7, 2014 Report Share Posted March 7, 2014 On the subject of mount materials, I have a differential mount in the rear (280zx style), and the bushing is bad, has anyone ever tried the Window Weld method? I am considering trying it, its only about $28 for a tube, and it seems to have a lot of people saying it works well and holds up. Otherwise I am gonna have to have a poly bushing custom fit into it, since nobody makes the mount anymore. Quote Link to comment
loungin112 Posted March 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 So I've done a little bit of research regarding Prothane vs Energy Suspension. I called Energy Suspension and they noted they only carry 4 parts for the (non-wagon) 510: - Front Control Arm Bushings, - Rear Control Arm Bushings, - Tension Rod Bushings, - Rear Diff Bar Bushings. Prothane's online catalogue was not helpful and I guess they are closed on Fridays....wish I didn't have to work Fridays. On ebay there is a kit for the 510 that lists a number of bushings, made by Prothane: - Front Control Arm Bushing, - Rear Control Arm Bushing, - Front Strut Rod Bushing, - Front Bump Stops, - Sway Bar End Links, - Ball Joint Boots, - Tie Rod End Boots. I called Z-Parts House, who listed the aforementioned ebay ad, and talked to Ed (who was very helpful and patient). He informed me that additional bushings to replace could include: - Front Sway Bar Bushings, - Rear Sway Bar Bushings, - Rear Mustache Bar Bushings, - Rear Sub-Frame Bushings, - Rear Coil Spring Isolator (new part). Some Bushings I have seen mention of, but may be the same as previously mentioned by under a different name, are: - Tension Rod Bushings, - Rear Crossmember Mount Bushings, - Idler Bar Bushings I plan on using some Moog parts in place of the poly bushings, such as the Tension/Compression (TC) bushings and Engine Mounts. Fortunately, it does not look as though the TC Bushings are included in the kit from ebay. Please add to this list or correct any errors....seriously, if I have these wrong point it out. Again, the goal is to replace as many of the suspension and steering bushings while I have the corners disassembled. Can't afford to spring for the t3 parts....yet. Cheers! Quote Link to comment
KlassicMotion Posted March 8, 2014 Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 I noticed the other day a listing for ball joint/tie rod boots. I can't fathom why they make those out of urethane. They need to be pliable to conform to different positions. Urethane just doesn't make sense to me for this application. I do have urethane for my anti-sway bar bushings. They came with my ST bars. Inside of them is a second material that I assume is to help keep them quiet and lubricated. Urethane seems like the ideal material for anti-sway bar bushings. I've also got the the urethane upper rear spring seats. Nothing wrong IMO with urethane there. Quote Link to comment
john510 Posted March 8, 2014 Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 Those urethane boots are pliable like rubber,they are just thicker. Quote Link to comment
KlassicMotion Posted March 8, 2014 Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 Those urethane boots are pliable like rubber,they are just thicker. Good to know. Have you or anybody else been running urethane tie rod boots for a couple years, or say 20k miles that can attest to their durability? I'm just wondering how well they hold up. Quote Link to comment
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