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Correct Fusible Link For 620 and Source


difrangia

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New fuse links from an auto store are done by gauge not color.  I have a '73 and it used 16 gauge fusible wire. (which was green for nissan color coding)

 

You want the fusible link to be a size smaller than the wires it is protecting.  That way that wire shorts and burns and not the others.  I had mine blow and it did its job.  Don't go bigger for this reason or else you put the wires from the engine bay to the fuse box at risk of catching fire.

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  • 1 year later...

I found reference to buy the 25442-H2500 from Nissan but it is Discontinued.

 

Mine is completely missing, so I don't have the connectors.

 

I tried to match some spade terminals to make one, but they are are a different size.

 

So that leaves what to do?

 

People have bought connectors from http://www.vintageconnections.com/ who I would like to contact, but they don't seem to have a telephone number.  I don't know what to order as far as connectors go because I don't have any.  I suspect it will be expensive and with shipping, I'm not going to spend $20 just for connectors. This is not a restoration but I would like to eliminate as much cobbling as I can.

 

Are there any other Nissan part numbers that work?  what Make/Model/Year?  Any aftermarket suppliers like Dorman - even to just get the connectors?

 

Even to just get the proper crimp metric connectors?

 

____________________________

 

EDIT:  Solved:  (or rather decision made)

 

Went to local wiring expert shop, Murray Electric, and they had the link wire.  (it was 20ga and OrangeI)

 

RockAuto is closing out Dorman's 20ga (discontinued) for under $3 for a 10' roll I think (something like 3 left)

 

Advance Auto has no link wire at all.  In fact, Murray had to dig around to find some 20ga - seems like 20ga is going the way of the old cars that used it - oblivion.

 

I'm going to put a stud ring end on the link and bolt to the battery terminal, and then reuse the wide spade on what they boogered in there - the female connector from the hardness is intact - it has a clear, very soft outer covering on it.  I can only imagine what the proper male spade looked like - probably some kind of sealing feature which I don't have - just an ordinary wide spade (Murray didn't even have it) that has no sealing whatsoever.

 

Read that link wire should be soldered too.

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Yes, a 1/4" spade will fit in the factory female connector, however it will be loose. 

 

Mine had a .316" spade which must be an 8mm (.315").  It is not a 5/16" because it is bigger than .3125 inches - the 1/4" is exactly .250 inches.

 

There is a standard 3/8" spade that could be filed down for a good fit.

 

I tried to get info on Metric spade connectors with little success on the internet.

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I have to laugh.   

 

I started soldering up the fusible link and then realized I was connecting it to the ground connector of the harness(!)

 

So I had to unsolder the spade and use it in a "ground" link - and then did the fusible.  Turns out the fusible needed a female spade end and I used the 3/8" size - yes it was not a tight fit, but it made good contact no matter how it was aligned.

 

I put 1/4" stud rings on both of these "links"

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  • 2 weeks later...

What is the correct color fusible link for a '78 model 620 pickup and can someone suggest a source??

 

Mine has a black link at present

 

Thanks

 

The '78 and '79 620 uses a Green wire. I assume earlier ones use less or no more that a Green.

 

 

Green is 40 amps..... 0.5mm2 ....... 23 gauge

Red is.... 50 amps...  0.69mm2...... 19 gauge

Yellow is 60 amps....  

Black..... 80 amps...  1.25mm2 ..... 16 gauge

 

The fusible link must (or should) be 4 wire gauge sizes smaller than the wire it protects. A 16 gauge wire protects a 12 gauge wire.

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