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510 question


10psitx

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I took a good look at the car this weekend, i must say the body is very straight with the exception of the front right fender and the left rear fender, i may replace the front fender but the rear can be fixed, the rear window frames have some rust on the lower rearmost part of the frame and i think it needs to be replaced, the driver floor board is mostly gone and the passenger has rust..i expect to see some pin holes when i clean it up,the rear ones look fine. The trunk looks good but whats suprising is the undercarrage is rust free...except the driver floor board of course... but 90% is great!.

 

The bad news is i will have to move from my current location as the rent has been raised and my lease is up in 11 days!!! i also have 2 240sx shells, 4 complete sr20det's swaps, 1 ca18det swap,  s13-s14, skyline and 180sx  body panles and parts ,  s and r chassis suspension and diffs ..basically my entire shop to move in to my two car garage at home...and i have s13 slivia and a 240sx hatch in my home garage now puls a bunch more parts. Its looking like i have to get a storage for the parts and engines for now untill i can get a shop within by budget to rent, or get some of this stuff sold. I have more stuff coming in a few weeks as well...If anyone living in Austin Texas has or knows about a decent space for rent let me know...thanks.

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  • 2 weeks later...

FYI, I have an extra set of pedals if you want to do a manual trans conversion. And probably some other parts you need as well. Let me know if you ever get up this sway.  :thumbup:

 i need to come visit with you soon, i'm in Carrollton at least once a week for work. i am interested in the pedals, i also need to get a hood and find some floor pans.

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I suppose it depends on the gear ratio, but most 6 speeds I've driven were a pain in the ass. I like 5 by my side.

 

 

I just a bought another 6 speed tranny from japan as i have a s15 sr20DE auto in a front clip. im thinking about putting that in the car and keeping it simple. No Intercooler mess, tucked harness and neatly installed....got so many options....

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I don't know what you paid, but unless it was $100 you overpaid for it. This car has rust in places that you never see unless there are *serious* problems. The top of the front fenders and the cowl/firewall never rust unless there are big problems. If you really want a 510 project, get a different car. You're going to have WAY more time and money into fixing the rust than the car is worth. I'm not trying to be an ass, but I just want you to know, and be realistic, on how much it will take to fix this one.

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This car has rust in places that you never see unless there are *serious* problems. The top of the front fenders and the cowl/firewall never rust unless there are big problems. 

 

FWIW, they do around here rust in those spots without there being crazy worse rust underneath. A lot of times because it's was parked under a tree for a long time and the cowl drains are super clogged, as well as the windshield drains. But you could just as easily be right. Won't know until the fenders are off and the windshield is out. 

 

Florida is also known for rusting cars in weird ways due to the crazy humidity...

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 i need to come visit with you soon, i'm in Carrollton at least once a week for work. i am interested in the pedals, i also need to get a hood and find some floor pans.

 

The hood on my 4dr isn't perfect, but certainly less rusty. I won't be needing it any time soon. Will have to look and see what the pans look like, but pans are also available new, and not terribly hard to fab. 

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The last 510 I had with rust on the front fenders like that, had severe rust on the tops and bottoms of the front wheel arches. The upper rail where the fender attaches to, that area was gone. The frame rails behind the wheels was terrible. The floors, rear quarters, and tail panel, all had rust............but not nearly as bad as this. Mine didn't have firewall rust either. We ended up cutting the car up and parting it out because it was too much work to save, and it was better than yours. I just sold a shell to a friend, because his car had rust in the cowl/firewall area, and he didn't want to do the work to save his either. Again, I'm not trying to sound mean, but my advice would be to part that one out, and buy a better shell. Even if you can't find one local, it would be worth the shipping to get a better car to start your project with.

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The last 510 I had with rust on the front fenders like that, had severe rust on the tops and bottoms of the front wheel arches. The upper rail where the fender attaches to, that area was gone. The frame rails behind the wheels was terrible. The floors, rear quarters, and tail panel, all had rust............but not nearly as bad as this. Mine didn't have firewall rust either. We ended up cutting the car up and parting it out because it was too much work to save, and it was better than yours. I just sold a shell to a friend, because his car had rust in the cowl/firewall area, and he didn't want to do the work to save his either. Again, I'm not trying to sound mean, but my advice would be to part that one out, and buy a better shell. Even if you can't find one local, it would be worth the shipping to get a better car to start your project with.

 

 

I had my body guy look over the car last saturday and the rust is not as bad as you make out to be, the undercarriage is in great shape(with the exception of the driver floor pan), fender seams and arches solid, rrame rails solid  so the car is structurally sound, he especially checked the inner and outer rocker panels and they turned out to be rust free.

After looking at the car as whole i would agree with Datsunfreek on the assumption of the car spending lots of time under a tree... with the driver  window full down and the passender side partially down, trunk is rust free rear floor pans rust free. Overall its quite salvageable, it will be repaired, not a full resto but good enough to go anywhere.

 

As far as the price...i know i over paid for this car, but its done, i wanted the car, could i have gotten a better car for the same money?......It's quite possible, but i haven't seen any present it self for sale in the few years that i've been looking. Is it rusty? heck yea!...has any one messed with anything on the car? nope..and that  to me is worth alot..... its a certified genuine factory fresh tree stored rust bucket and Its got infinite Dreamer potential.  

 

On the trip back every gas stop we made the car drew a crowd, From "i had one of those in college",  " i love those old Datsuns, they run forever" to "what kinda car is that?" , "hey my buddy has a race car that looks like that". I have to say it was a very eventfull trip back to Austin.

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  • 1 month later...

This project has been put on hold for a while, i'm putting my efforts and finance into my budding import business. The car has been cleaned up and tucked away in the garage with the 78 corolla.hopefully i'll get to it later this year but in the mean time as money becomes avalible i'll be gathering the necessary parts for it.

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  • 6 months later...

Yup, all 68-71 510's automatics were column shift, 72-73 were floor shift. Swapping to manual is relatively easy if you are mechanically capable. All of the parts are pretty easy to source here (I typically have most of the necessary parts available!), there are some guys in TX, so you might find regionally. You'll spend $300-500++ on parts, including a transmission (that will be the biggest expense!), cheapest way is a 4speed (cuz they are a dime a dozen!), best way is prolly a 280ZX 5 speed. I documented my swap on my 70 510 here last year..........

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/40424-yenpits-1970-510-4-door-beater/

 

......and I think you will need to go here for the auto-to-manual wiring trick, which was kinda complicated to figure out, but once I got it done it's easy!

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/45721-510-auto-to-manual-reverse-lights/

 

Hope that helps!

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Trans really don't care how it's shifted.   ^_^

 

The real difference is who made the trans, but even then they can be swapped around if you're crafty.

 

As I recall, the earliest cars used a British-made Borg Warner, then they switched to an American-made Borg Warner, and finished up with a Japanese-made Japco trans. 

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  • 7 months later...

I think the SSS model was offered after '69 and was in reality a trim package only, the horn pad on a wooden steering wheel being the most noticeable thing and SSS badges on the C pillar. It was more common for the SSS 510s to be automatics.

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