Jump to content

datsun fairlady 1000!?


BlackBird620

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 21
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

OK its a 69 1600 photo threw me off when I saw the badges sorry everyone guy finally text me back it actually in pretty good shape according to the owner is there any particular places I should look for rust and will my l20b fit in it? I probably won't get the rx7 if it will drop in

 

Will it physically fit?- yes.

Will it just bolt in?- no

 

Youd need to run an L-series trans along with it and custom mounts etc. Why would you replace an 1.6L R with a 1.6L L? Its harder to swap for no gains... 

Link to comment

if it wasn't in a dry shop all its life, look under the carpet... all but southwest cars with have rust in the following areas...  bottom of the fender near the doors,  bottom of the rear quarters, floors, rockers.... reach up into the fender wells and find the inner fenders... most eastern cars will have a support box that will have dissolved into rust by now.  

 

BUT!!!!! the most critical one is the frame!!!!!  get it on blocks and check out the frame arches from the back seat to the back bumper.. and either side of the tranny.  Do not judge the frame solidness by the engine bay... engine bays are generally greasy and that can keep the rust at bay for years.  

 

the R16 is a good engine, if it runs, stick with that... if not, go straight to a KA24... they are cheap, newer by 20 years and swap parts are easy to get, including custom motor mounts. harnesses, and rads... KA is almost plug and play... way easier than L20b if you don't want to fab as you go. 

Link to comment

The R has been sitting for 14 years car was kept in the garage up until last year I was told. I'll check everything . Owner says he has put trans fluid in the cylinders to keep it from seizing up

 

"Warning, warning Will Robinson!"  What corrosion lives beneath the transmission oil soaked upper cylinder?  Manually turn the engine over by wrenching on the lower crankcase pully.  Any resistance?  The oil pan can be removed from under the roadster without pulling the engine.  What gunk is in the pan?  Hope to hell it works out for you but go in with sceptical eyes, not rose tinted spectacles.

 

By the way, the NISMO catalog offers an improved oil pan gasket for racing that can be retorqued so that you don't have to constantly buy new gaskets as you proceed to check out and improve this engine.

Edited by MikeRL411
Link to comment
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 9 months later...

Buy it, and play with it! It's rough, but the price is right, especially if you can get him to come down a bit. The L20 engine is a common swap, and YES there are significant gains with the correct setup. The L20 has a lot of support for making power. Check out 311s.org for examples. Personally, I'm dropping a KA24 in mine though.

Just prepare for huge parts costs. A little creativity and patence (as well as not giving a shit about keeping the car original) can keep those costs down though.

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.