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Blown RL411 engine


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#21 Datsun Dude

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Posted 02 October 2013 - 11:15 AM

 

I have older NISMO catalogs with a listing of parts required to pull this conversion off.  "Ask and you shall receive" to quote a reliable source.

 

That would be cool to see!



#22 MikeRL411

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Posted 02 October 2013 - 12:35 PM



That would be cool to see!

 

The parts are-

R16 Stroker Crank     1 each    12200-E0700

U20 Connecting Rods 4 each   12100-25500

You would also need 8 each U20 Connecting rod bolts 12109-25500 [NLA of course] and 8 each connecting rod nuts 12113-25500.  Nissan used to say these were stretch bolts and had to be replaced and not reused.  The later catalogs say "Connecting rod bolts (if available) should be replaced during each rebuild."

 

The roadster could use [will NOT fit a RL411] a competition 7.5 quart oil pan 11110-25500, and a competition insert 99996-C1133.



#23 shifty

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Posted 03 October 2013 - 08:58 PM

What makes the U20 not fit?

#24 Datsun Dude

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Posted 05 October 2013 - 09:52 AM

Having a change of heart. As much as it pains me to say this...

 

Might anyone be interested in buying this car from me, as is? Think this project is more than I can handle right now. 

Car is in San Jose, CA. 

 

Thread about the car: http://community.rat...a-67-rl411-sss/



#25 Johnlorio

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Posted 06 October 2013 - 04:36 PM

Pm me

John

#26 erichwaslike

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Posted 07 October 2013 - 12:49 PM

What makes the U20 not fit?

 

the whole second chain. the timing cover and crank are longer.... it just dont fit right in, theres stuff that can be done but it requires a bit of molesting on the motor and car.


Ratsun: where its no longer a debate of function > form

but a debate between Down syndrome ingenuity > someone taking a shit in the gas tank
 

you read my post like a woman would, interpreting.... not actually reading.

wait skib loves the cock

Should I do it to myself or get skib to hammer me?

Ever hear that saying about people in glass houses Syncro?


Ill make a special trip to cali and find your ratty K5 wearing slut bag of a datto




Take some time off, make your signature a little longer...everything will work out


 
 

 

i kind of want to be in your sig party/orgy

 

 

 

 



 
 

 
 

 

SIG-1.jpg


#27 Datsun Dude

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Posted 08 October 2013 - 08:37 AM

All hope is not lost. I talked to a machine shop that is reputable with rebuilding Datsun motors and the price was reasonable. I'll see if I can make this happen. 



#28 K_trip

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Posted 08 October 2013 - 08:50 AM

- removed -



#29 Datsun Dude

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Posted 08 October 2013 - 10:42 AM

I have my fingers cross that things work out well for you on this.

 

Thanks much K_Trip!



#30 Datsun Dude

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Posted 08 October 2013 - 10:45 AM

Can one just drop in a motor from a '67 1600 Roadster? Any mods that need to be made? It seems they can be found quite easily from the Roadster crowd. I see one for $300.

Also, what are the implications of swapping a 1600 motor with metric connectivity? Easy to just bolt on? 

 

Thanks!



#31 MikeRL411

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Posted 08 October 2013 - 02:19 PM

 

Can one just drop in a motor from a '67 1600 Roadster? Any mods that need to be made? It seems they can be found quite easily from the Roadster crowd. I see one for $300.
Also, what are the implications of swapping a 1600 motor with metric connectivity? Easy to just bolt on? 
 
Thanks!

 
1- No. Not a drop in. First, the "as is" roadster engine is too long for the 411 engine compartment and mods need to be made. The water pump needs to be an RL411 with "bell shaped" spinner or a roadster water pump with the roadster spinner pulled and a RL411 spinner pressed into place. Can be done, I did it. Second, you need to replace the roadster crankshaft pulley and the alternator mount with the units from your existilg RL411 engine. Third, if a metric roadster engine, the cast aluminum valve cover will clear the windshield wiper motor assembly, otherwise you will have to substitute the RL411 valve cover. Fourth, you will need the exhaust manifold extension from your RL411 to fit the hole in the fender for the exhaust. It is probably simpler to swap the entire manifols and adapter since the gasket between the manifold and the adapter is no longer available [although someone with a stainless steel exhaust appears to be gearing up to manufacture a replacement].

2- Other than the above, a 5 main bearing metric engine [roadster '67 1/2 and on] will fit the hole left by a 3 main bearing SAE engine.

Good luck!

#32 Datsun Dude

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Posted 08 October 2013 - 02:59 PM

 
 
1- No. Not a drop in. First, the "as is" roadster engine is too long for the 411 engine compartment and mods need to be made. The water pump needs to be an RL411 with "bell shaped" spinner or a roadster water pump with the roadster spinner pulled and a RL411 spinner pressed into place. Can be done, I did it. Second, you need to replace the roadster crankshaft pulley and the alternator mount with the units from your existilg RL411 engine. Third, if a metric roadster engine, the cast aluminum valve cover will clear the windshield wiper motor assembly, otherwise you will have to substitute the RL411 valve cover. Fourth, you will need the exhaust manifold extension from your RL411 to fit the hole in the fender for the exhaust. It is probably simpler to swap the entire manifols and adapter since the gasket between the manifold and the adapter is no longer available [although someone with a stainless steel exhaust appears to be gearing up to manufacture a replacement].

2- Other than the above, a 5 main bearing metric engine [roadster '67 1/2 and on] will fit the hole left by a 3 main bearing SAE engine.

Good luck!

 

Thanks MikeRL411,

I guess I am not going to do the roadster "drop in" as it sounds like it would be easier to just rebuild the existing motor.

 

That said, if I was to find a 5 main bearing metric engine for a stroker, would I have to do all the mods you mentioned above for fitment? I assume so. I have the stainless steel exhaust downpipe from raceneely, it's the prototype and worked great when it was running. 

 

Thanks!



#33 MikeRL411

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Posted 08 October 2013 - 05:16 PM

 

Thanks MikeRL411,

That said, if I was to find a 5 main bearing metric engine for a stroker, would I have to do all the mods you mentioned above for fitment? I assume so. I have the stainless steel exhaust downpipe from raceneely, it's the prototype and worked great when it was running. 
 
Thanks!

 Yes, less the exhaust manifold which you have covered with the stainless steel new creation. [The marmon clamp is a real improvement] The external envelope for the metric and the SAE engine are the same.

#34 erichwaslike

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Posted 09 October 2013 - 10:38 AM

Thanks MikeRL411,

I guess I am not going to do the roadster "drop in" as it sounds like it would be easier to just rebuild the existing motor.

 

That said, if I was to find a 5 main bearing metric engine for a stroker, would I have to do all the mods you mentioned above for fitment? I assume so. I have the stainless steel exhaust downpipe from raceneely, it's the prototype and worked great when it was running. 

 

Thanks!

 

 

it looks as though you are reading too far into this. the block and everything are the same size, its the stuff bolted to it that make it not fit. the 411 has a few specific parts to put any r series in it.... water pump, oil pan, crank pulley, intake, exhaust, and alt mounts. all this is stuff you need to take off if you are rebuilding a motor, just swap it onto a running motor and be done. its what i did on my 411sss and its easy trust me.


Ratsun: where its no longer a debate of function > form

but a debate between Down syndrome ingenuity > someone taking a shit in the gas tank
 

you read my post like a woman would, interpreting.... not actually reading.

wait skib loves the cock

Should I do it to myself or get skib to hammer me?

Ever hear that saying about people in glass houses Syncro?


Ill make a special trip to cali and find your ratty K5 wearing slut bag of a datto




Take some time off, make your signature a little longer...everything will work out


 
 

 

i kind of want to be in your sig party/orgy

 

 

 

 



 
 

 
 

 

SIG-1.jpg


#35 Datsun Dude

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Posted 09 October 2013 - 02:04 PM

it looks as though you are reading too far into this. the block and everything are the same size, its the stuff bolted to it that make it not fit. the 411 has a few specific parts to put any r series in it.... water pump, oil pan, crank pulley, intake, exhaust, and alt mounts. all this is stuff you need to take off if you are rebuilding a motor, just swap it onto a running motor and be done. its what i did on my 411sss and its easy trust me.

 

Thanks for the clarification. Makes sense!



#36 raceneely

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Posted 12 October 2013 - 11:38 AM

Kevin, you are gonna be fine on this.... everyone is rooting for you. That is a kick ass specimen keep pushing .



#37 MikeRL411

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Posted 12 October 2013 - 01:14 PM

You're going to skin a few knuckles, stand up too fast and bump your head, hunt around the floor for the nuts and bolts you dropped, invent a few new cuss words and when you're finished you'll say "That wasn't so hard after all!"

#38 Datsun Dude

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Posted 14 October 2013 - 11:03 PM

Thanks all for the encouragement, I definitely took it to heart. I'm going to keep the car and build it into a nice little sleeper 411.

Mechanic said it's going to be a lot of work but I made the decision to go ahead with the project. We're starting with the rebuilt motor. It's getting pulled out later this week or next. Not sure of mods yet, but I'll let you all know what I'm going to do. It looks as though the work will be done at Rebello after all. With the engine out, a few things will be done, like clutch job, radiator, thermostat, etc. Also, any basic safety repairs to the car to get it back on the road. Other niceties (like suspension, wheels, etc.) will come later in second stage of build.

Cheers guys, and thanks again.

411-rear_no-plate.jpg



#39 MikeRL411

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Posted 15 October 2013 - 06:46 AM

On the chance that your thermostat housing has corrosion to the extent that you are unsure if you should reuse it, a Kia Sephia housing is an almost exact replacement.  Just ream the metric holes in the flange to fit your bolts.



#40 erichwaslike

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Posted 15 October 2013 - 10:45 AM

Thanks all for the encouragement, I definitely took it to heart. I'm going to keep the car and build it into a nice little sleeper 411.

Mechanic said it's going to be a lot of work but I made the decision to go ahead with the project. We're starting with the rebuilt motor. It's getting pulled out later this week or next. Not sure of mods yet, but I'll let you all know what I'm going to do. It looks as though the work will be done at Rebello after all. With the engine out, a few things will be done, like clutch job, radiator, thermostat, etc. Also, any basic safety repairs to the car to get it back on the road. Other niceties (like suspension, wheels, etc.) will come later in second stage of build.

Cheers guys, and thanks again.

411-rear_no-plate.jpg

 

 

having rebello do it is gonna cost an arm and a leg..... these cars dont have alot to them so nothing should be too expensive...... let us know how this goes


Ratsun: where its no longer a debate of function > form

but a debate between Down syndrome ingenuity > someone taking a shit in the gas tank
 

you read my post like a woman would, interpreting.... not actually reading.

wait skib loves the cock

Should I do it to myself or get skib to hammer me?

Ever hear that saying about people in glass houses Syncro?


Ill make a special trip to cali and find your ratty K5 wearing slut bag of a datto




Take some time off, make your signature a little longer...everything will work out


 
 

 

i kind of want to be in your sig party/orgy

 

 

 

 



 
 

 
 

 

SIG-1.jpg