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Blown RL411 engine


Datsun Dude

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Hi all,

I was just running the RL411 up and down the freeway after a wheel balance (nothing crazy) and all of a sudden the valves started making noise. Soon after, I started losing power. I limped the car home and tried to get it up the driveway with no success, the engine just died. I then rolled it back out onto the street and tried to start it back up to no avail.

 

Sounds like the engine is in need of serious repair. That's okay, because I was planning on rebuilding it at some point anyway. Just not this soon.

 

I wonder if any of you might have a recommendation for a mechanic to repair or rebuild this RL411 motor.

 

Trying not to get too upset, just want to get this thing back on the road as soon as possible.

 

Thanks!

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Sounds like maybe a valve seat dropped. Pull the valve cover and see if one of the rockers is at a extreme angle. If so may be time to pull the head and rebuild, $3-400, may be cheaper to find a running r16 from a roadster and drop in. Good luck and keep us in the loop.

 

Thanks for the possible diagnosis. I have my mechanic looking at it right now.

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Yes, I did. Horrible luck. 

 

 

Thanks for the possible diagnosis. I have my mechanic looking at it right now.

 

luck huh.... well if you need a new head i knwo i have a few and i think adam (eagle adam) has an extra also... you will need to swap over the thermostat tower studs tho as the 411 uses studs and the 311 uses bolts and a different tower too....

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luck huh.... well if you need a new head i knwo i have a few and i think adam (eagle adam) has an extra also... you will need to swap over the thermostat tower studs tho as the 411 uses studs and the 311 uses bolts and a different tower too....

 

Awesome, thanks for the offer. I will find out a bit later if that's all I need. I'll let my mechanic know.

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I'm sorry to hear of your set back, I hope this is a relatively easy fix.

 

Driving these old cars and trucks can be an adventure, but worth it!

 

Thanks a bunch K-trip. The car is in good hands. It's just a game of time and money from here on out.  :thumbup:

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Keep it simple. It's a pushrod engine. I've had the push rods pop off a rocker arm easily enough if too much clearance and revved up. Made noise and lost one cylinder.

 

 

 

Valve noise could be mistaken for something else. Did it over heat? Too late now but driving home when you know there is a problem isn't wide. Usually over heating can loosen a valve seat because of the way they are installed. Over heating can also cause the head gasket to blow and is more likely.

 

Pull valve cover and check valve lash. Crank it over and look, this will tell you a lot.  Maybe a push rod jumped off the rocker arm. One that you can't adjust may have a problem. If all the valves adjust properly then maybe suspect the head gasket. Check the oil is it clean? Milky coffee color could mean water getting past the rings but the gasket may have simply blown between two cylinders.

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Just heard from my mechanic, Rob Fuller at Z Car Garage. He says the engine is failed (bearing noises). Bummer. He's looking around for some options, looks like a rebuild is in the works. He is getting pricing from Rebello: http://www.rebelloracing.com/index.htm I will let you all know what happens.

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Rebello doesnt need to rebuid it. Thay charge alot its just a simple motor. Hopefully they dont need the Rebello name mark up.$$$$$$$$

 

Thanks for the warning on Rebello. I'll see what other options there might be. I don't want to spend a fortune getting it back out there on the road.

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Thanks for the recommendation for Kevin Desirello. I'd rather deal with someone local. Anyone in the SF Bay area that might be worth considering for the rebuild?

 

Swap candidates are another R16 or a U20, as I understand it. Something to consider.

 

Does a '69 Roadster have an R16? Here's one for $300: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/pts/4077569086.html

Maybe the same motor for $100: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/pts/4077570158.html

Here's a U20 for $650: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/scz/pts/4099176760.html

 

Just some thoughts after getting the bad news today.

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The 1969 Roadster has the late metric 5 main bearing engine if it was original to the car.  Saying it's a '69 engine is not the same as saying it was original to the car as opposed to being pulled from one.  This is a good engine, just remember you can't swap over parts willy nilly without taking the metric as opposed to SAE fasteners into consideration.  The 5 main bearing engine can be converted to a 2 liter displacement.  NISMO used to list the required parts in their catalog.

 

Who knows? you just might have a factory 2 liter OHC at your disposal!  Basically the R block with a jackshaft in place of the camshaft and an second timing chain driven over head cam top end.

 

Good luck!

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the u20 wont fit without alot of work, trust me its on my list of things to do and ive done all the measuring and such for it....

 

But the 5 main bearing 1600cc type R [only] with the stroker parts will.  See Arizonahitman's WRL411 wagon.  Externally it's a 1600cc but it has 2 liter oomph.  Quite a sleeper conversion.  I have older NISMO catalogs with a listing of parts required to pull this conversion off.  "Ask and you shall receive" to quote a reliable source.

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Thanks for the recommendation for Kevin Desirello. I'd rather deal with someone local. Anyone in the SF Bay area that might be worth considering for the rebuild?

 

Swap candidates are another R16 or a U20, as I understand it. Something to consider.

 

Does a '69 Roadster have an R16? Here's one for $300: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/pts/4077569086.html

Maybe the same motor for $100: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/pts/4077570158.html

Here's a U20 for $650: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/scz/pts/4099176760.html

 

Just some thoughts after getting the bad news today.

 

 

 

But the 5 main bearing 1600cc type R [only] with the stroker parts will.  See Arizonahitman's WRL411 wagon.  Externally it's a 1600cc but it has 2 liter oomph.  Quite a sleeper conversion.  I have older NISMO catalogs with a listing of parts required to pull this conversion off.  "Ask and you shall receive" to quote a reliable source.

 

yeah i know that cause you basically make an r20. but i was referring to the comment of actually putting a u20 in that datsun dude had made...

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That would be cool to see!

 

The parts are-

R16 Stroker Crank     1 each    12200-E0700

U20 Connecting Rods 4 each   12100-25500

You would also need 8 each U20 Connecting rod bolts 12109-25500 [NLA of course] and 8 each connecting rod nuts 12113-25500.  Nissan used to say these were stretch bolts and had to be replaced and not reused.  The later catalogs say "Connecting rod bolts (if available) should be replaced during each rebuild."

 

The roadster could use [will NOT fit a RL411] a competition 7.5 quart oil pan 11110-25500, and a competition insert 99996-C1133.

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Having a change of heart. As much as it pains me to say this...

 

Might anyone be interested in buying this car from me, as is? Think this project is more than I can handle right now. 

Car is in San Jose, CA. 

 

Thread about the car: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/50567-anyone-interested-in-a-67-rl411-sss/

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