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Foxx60

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This pleases me.. well.. all except for that orange oil filter..

heh yea but you buy cheep when your unsure if the engine is good or not its also full of light weight oil and seafoam for the first start. Next thing on the agenda is to clean every single electrical connection with deoxit and a tiny brush if any one knows a speedy alternative give me a shout because $15 for a 5oz. can is kind of a bummer especially on my ramen budget

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I use Battery terminal cleaner on my connections... Whatever acid you use, make sure you rinse them with starting fluid, brake cleaner or elctronics cleaner, and put dielectric grease on them.  I didn't my first time, and in a few months, they ended up corroding even worse than when I started.

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I was thinking a quick dip or swap with a 5% muratic acid water solution then baking soda and water spray and contact cleaner ill try it and take pics to see if it will cut it I just worry about the acid wicking up the wire

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That sounds excessive.

 

To tell you the truth, most of your connections will probably be ok.  Most connections from the factory are pretty tight.  Usually what you find is they look oxidized on the outside, but if you pull them apart, the actual connection is still clean.  As long as you have that, they work fine.  Oxidation on the outside won't hurt them.  Often times, you run into problems when you start "fixing" things that aren't broken.

 

The safest thing is to leave them alone until a problem orrurs.  Second from that, only use an electrical cleaner and a brass brush.  Disturbing, and introducing anything else to a connection that isn't broken, is ill-advised.

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Okay well I did clean the underhood connections as none of the vehicles electrical systems work except the coil and distributor I even have to jump the coil connections to start it but thats a faulty solenoid

Does anyone know what the micro switch attached to the throttle linkage is for?

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Oh dang thanks so its part of the dual points set up mine only has a single micro switch its a cali car but its federal emissions only kinda odd probably before they came in to full force, so without the switch the engine wouldn't be able to switch from one set of points to the other I think I like this set up its kind of classy

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Be careful with cleaners such as brake cleaner, etc.. they can peel your paint and melt the plastic connectors. I think you're going about it the right way with a more watered down solution. This engine sounds SMOOTH for not running in 22yrs. You scored.

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Be careful with cleaners such as brake cleaner, etc.. they can peel your paint and melt the connectors. I think you're going about it the right way with a more watered down solution. This engine sounds SMOOTH for not running in 22yrs. You scored.

Thanks I did the marvel mystery oil method in the cylinders to ideally unseat the rings...? I donno it worked great on my truck that sat for 5 years my wifes grandfather passed and her gandma gave it to me that was 8 years ago and now the truck has about 100k overall wish I had pics of the oil after i seafoamed the crankcase in it

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Be careful with cleaners such as brake cleaner, etc.. they can peel your paint and melt the plastic connectors. I think you're going about it the right way with a more watered down solution. This engine sounds SMOOTH for not running in 22yrs. You scored.

 

I always forget to mention I don't use Chlorinated Brake parts cleaner.  I only use non-chlorinated brake cleaner.  I prefer Autozone's house brand, which is the same as Advanced Autopart's Wearever brake cleaner.

 

I use that stuff on just about everything.  It won't hurt most stuff.

 

I've heard stories of people over cleaning old engines and causing particles of carbon to dislodge and get stuck in oil galleys, causing an engine to fail.... personally, when resurrecting and engine, I flush, then put in the recommended weight oil before start-up, and change it again after a few hours of running...  works for me, but everyone has their own way.

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I do agree that getting clumps of sludge in oil galleys is a very bad thing but with my truck the clumps were so large that when they came out it resembled gravel on my drain pan not sure where it all came from but I dont mind not having it attached to any of the reciprocating mass :)

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So I cleaned up all under connections but I found the main contributor to the electical problems

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and this is my solution to the ancient fuse box

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All the cars features work now except the signals and high beams damn multi switch ill clean you too!!

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nice that should make things easier tough it looks like parts house crimpers on the connectors go find yourself a good set of crimpers so those connections become permanent

 

Yea the crimpers were just a standard pair my dad had around they did the job and I tug tested them but im not satisfied with the four and two in to one connections I think im going to redo those and solder them then go over the connections on the back with either heat shrink or liquid electical tape
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a good crimp connection with solder and heat shrink is the best connection you can get though from my experience i would use a small torch to solder and not an iron the iron will work but the torch will be much much faster  

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though im curious how much those fuse boxes cost cause that would be a simple way to upgrade the harness and with an addition of another panel makes adding circuits easier

 

super easy find picked them up in the local orileys auto parts they were 10 or 12 bucks a pop
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If you wanted to keep it stock, I keep seeing these replacement fuse boxes for the 710 which looks the same a  610 on Ebay.

 

   I do like the upgrade you made to the blade style fuses, but  not to hip on the style of your crimp connecters .

 

    Here is the fuse box I am talking about,

 

   http://www.ebay.com/itm/DATSUN-140J-160J-Violet-710-1974-1977-Fuse-Box-/221117504070?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item337ba15a46&vxp=mtr

 

 

$T2eC16d,!zoE9s5ngHqzBSJiwCzwew~~60_57.J

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