69FJWagon Posted July 5, 2007 Report Share Posted July 5, 2007 Here's another KAde Troy did for a customer with duel 44 mikuni's just did cams only and a basic rebuild but it was still fast over 200hp never did any dyno tuning but I have no doubt it was over 200hp more pictures at ermish-racing.com Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted July 5, 2007 Report Share Posted July 5, 2007 That looks like a match box dizzy? Quote Link to comment
69FJWagon Posted July 5, 2007 Report Share Posted July 5, 2007 ha good eye ya it is but its been modified to work in the KA...your look'n at a $400 dizzy Quote Link to comment
Bleach Posted July 5, 2007 Report Share Posted July 5, 2007 that's super clean. I bet it sounds nice too Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted July 5, 2007 Report Share Posted July 5, 2007 400 bucks isn't to bad, no matter what rought you go its going to cost a few bucks to get a good spark out of a carbed ka. I would personally go with throttle bodys, they give that carb sound without the normal carb problems.... one thing that I always thought was weird it once you efi a car it almost seems like a different car. It gets rid of the gas smell and that kinda burnt smell that datsuns have. Quote Link to comment
BEEBANI Posted July 5, 2007 Report Share Posted July 5, 2007 Too bad the fuel pump is mounted in the engine bay. Where do you find an electric fuel pump that pulls instead of pushes nowadays? Quote Link to comment
kiznook Posted July 5, 2007 Report Share Posted July 5, 2007 I like that it's a $400 dizzy, yet the vacuum advance doesn't appear to be connected Quote Link to comment
qship510 Posted July 6, 2007 Report Share Posted July 6, 2007 I like that it's a $400 dizzy, yet the vacuum advance doesn't appear to be connected If that is a Rebello recurved distributor (which it probably is) it is set up for a bunch of initial advance and relies on mechanical advance only. Dave sets them up this way for high compression, large bore L motors (and L derivatives), and the vacuum advance is not to be hooked up. $400 is a little steep, but that is with Troy's markup certainly. Pales in comparison to a $1400 Rebello head, doesn't it? Quote Link to comment
69FJWagon Posted July 6, 2007 Report Share Posted July 6, 2007 Actually Troy and a machinist buddy spent along time getting that dist. to work, but its set up like you said...so when you figure in the labor its a good price.and when you think about the price of the hand made intake manifold and the swap itself $400 bucks for a dizzy is a drop in the hat I still dont understand why he didnt opt for some head work :confused::confused:. dont get me wrong it was fast and the car turned out awesome but if your going that far why not go all the way. the KA Troy is building know should be amazing he had Rebello prep the head (way more than $1400 bucks try more than double that) but thats the price you pay when you build N/A hoursepower. I know my FJ20 N/A has probably around $2000 bucks in head work not including cams and valve springs. its all about what you want and who does it, if you think Troy is expensive get a quote from Dave Rebello...but hey like I say you get what you pay for.:D Quote Link to comment
69FJWagon Posted July 6, 2007 Report Share Posted July 6, 2007 Too bad the fuel pump is mounted in the engine bay. Where do you find an electric fuel pump that pulls instead of pushes nowadays? the fuel pump can pull they just dont last as long but if you get 2 or 3 years out of a fuel pump for $75 bucks I am okay with that I know the $400 dollar fuel pump that was in my buddys autocross car that lasted half a season was pushing and then he used the $75 dollar one and has had no problems... probably a fluke but hey cheaper can sometimes be worth it. my fuel pump is mounted the same way and works fine Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted July 6, 2007 Report Share Posted July 6, 2007 I like that it's a $400 dizzy, yet the vacuum advance doesn't appear to be connected I had an L20 with a recurved dizzy, by far the fasted L I've owned. I agree though it does look funny :D On my ka I put 1' pieces of vacuum hoses on with screws in the end, that way I could tuck them under the mani, to me it looked better than the cap... next I will cut them off and weld the whole shut :D If that is a Rebello recurved distributor (which it probably is) it is set up for a bunch of initial advance and relies on mechanical advance only. Dave sets them up this way for high compression, large bore L motors (and L derivatives), and the vacuum advance is not to be hooked up. $400 is a little steep, but that is with Troy's markup certainly. Pales in comparison to a $1400 Rebello head, doesn't it? agreed :D Actually Troy and a machinist buddy spent along time getting that dist. to work, but its set up like you said...so when you figure in the labor its a good price.and when you think about the price of the hand made intake manifold and the swap itself $400 bucks for a dizzy is a drop in the hat I still dont understand why he didnt opt for some head work :confused::confused:. dont get me wrong it was fast and the car turned out awesome but if your going that far why not go all the way. the KA Troy is building know should be amazing he had Rebello prep the head (way more than $1400 bucks try more than double that) but thats the price you pay when you build N/A hoursepower. I know my FJ20 N/A has probably around $2000 bucks in head work not including cams and valve springs. its all about what you want and who does it, if you think Troy is expensive get a quote from Dave Rebello...but hey like I say you get what you pay for.:D I've never built a high dollar car but it seems like you would want to go all the way. I noticed in one of your FJ cars the brake masters are gone? You have some explaining to do!! I had a set of wilwood reverse pedals but I gave up on them.. the fuel pump can pull they just dont last as long but if you get 2 or 3 years out of a fuel pump for $75 bucks I am okay with that I know the $400 dollar fuel pump that was in my buddys autocross car that lasted half a season was pushing and thenhe used the $75 dollar one and has had know problem... probably a fluke but hey cheaper can sometimes be worth it. my fuel pump is mounted the same way and works fine That is a funny story, I always by walbro I have head some bad stories but both worked well. Quote Link to comment
Cookapoop Posted July 7, 2007 Report Share Posted July 7, 2007 I believe he is talking about NA engines only. L-series 2.0 or 2.2L is almost impossible to get that much power out of. Even 150hp I'm not sure on the SR20, but the KA24DE is almost there from the factory. Not at all impossible to get 150-200 hp out of an L20. 200+ IS possible out of an L16 NA and carbed no less. Will it last long? ...Absolutely not. Does it put a dent in the ol wallet? ...You bet your ass it does. that is all Peace and Grease Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted July 7, 2007 Report Share Posted July 7, 2007 Not at all impossible to get 150-200 hp out of an L20. 200+ IS possible out of an L16 NA and carbed no less. Will it last long? ...Absolutely not. Does it put a dent in the ol wallet? ...You bet your ass it does. that is all Peace and Grease I agree dude, I was talking to a friend about his race only engine, he had 10k into it. sr none turbo, it dynoed very close to 200whp... Think of what it could have if it was turbo with the same amount of money! Not only that look at how much cash race car guys put into there engines.... So I can see an L motor having insane numbers! and alright HP :D (numbers being money invested :D ) Quote Link to comment
Cookapoop Posted July 7, 2007 Report Share Posted July 7, 2007 I know of one guy that is getting 350 to 375 NA out of KA24DEs but he won't tell anyone his secrets. Quote Link to comment
Duke Posted July 7, 2007 Report Share Posted July 7, 2007 Hell, I can get 400+ out of NA L-motors...it just takes a few of them ;). Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted July 7, 2007 Report Share Posted July 7, 2007 I lay money its NOT 200hp to the ground on that KA!!!!!!!!!!Maybe at THE CRANK But its a COOL motor and a nice one at that. People always overrated there HP ratings. Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted July 7, 2007 Report Share Posted July 7, 2007 I lay money its NOT 200hp to the ground on that KA!!!!!!!!!!Maybe at THE CRANK But its a COOL motor and a nice one at that. People always overrated there HP ratings. There was a carbed ka24e at colission specialties that dynoed 200 to the ground. He has a dyno in his personaly garage. The ka was running on race gas but I was still impressed. It was also the lowest HP car there, they had a skyline and a s13 that were well over 500whp. They where as Hainz puts it "In a different league" The one with lots of cash :D Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 7, 2007 Report Share Posted July 7, 2007 Too bad the fuel pump is mounted in the engine bay. Where do you find an electric fuel pump that pulls instead of pushes nowadays? All pumps electric or mechanical push fuel better than pull it. They are limited by atmospheric air pressure of around 15 lbs. so that's (looking at it backwards) 15 lbs of suction, and that's IT. Period! ANY restriction is to be avoided and because of this the fuel line should be as short as possible and the pump mounted as low as possible so it doesn't have to suck up hill. Most new cars have the pump in the tank (best of all). Quote Link to comment
69FJWagon Posted July 8, 2007 Report Share Posted July 8, 2007 I always meen at the crank not to the ground although the new KA that Troy Ermish is building for Bill should put over 200 hp to the ground but it takes big money to get there 3000 grand in the head alone then custom forged pistons and... the list is long but REBELLO did the head and helped Troy figure some things out cant wait for that car to be done. as far as the fuel pump goes I am only running 5-6 psi i think that should last for a while...I hope LOL Quote Link to comment
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