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Voltage regulator removal..with internal regulator altinator?


oldgasman

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take the volt reg off. then the engine side connector make to jumper wire to plug in the female side.

 

white blk wire will be shorted to the white red wire

yellow short to the white wire.

 

ps if you have a electric chooke your battery will die as its will be engaged so hopefully you have a manual choke.since you have a 72 if will be elelctric choke if you havent already put a manual weber carb on there. Or a weber with a electric choke.

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  • 1 month later...

That will be the choke heater. With the key off, although there is no power to the choke the relay coil IS syill powered and will drain the battery over a day and a half.

 

 

What I did was find and unplug the relay.

 

Find the RED idle cut solenoid wire and splice the BLUE choke heater wire into it. Now the choke gets it's power from the idle cut solenoid source which is on when the ignition is on. 

 

101_0100.jpg

 

The RED wire goes to the hex sided idle cut solenoid. The other wire is BLUE under the black plastic cover.

Join the Blue to the Red and you are good to go.

101_0097.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

So what your sayin is...if I was to install a factory 79 IR alt in my 75 620,... cut the pigtail off the volt. reg and connect the w/r to the w/b and the y to the w, the 2 left over wires would not be used, plug the shorted pigtail back into the harness, and connect the blue and red wires of the three that connect to the factory carb( im running su's) thus keeping the relay from running all the time Im good to go?

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choke heater relay, located on the pas fender yes? the trucks pretty much gutted of alot of that allready so unless its somewhere else i think i got it disconnected but now im starting to wonder if the choke heater relay is not were i think. feel like helpin again? thanks.. all other wiring sounds right though?

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  • 4 years later...

Hi there guys. Resurrecting this thread. I have the following done in an internally regulated alternator swapped in to replace the original one. I installed a 1991 hardbody alternator (unsure of brand, off the shelf from O'Reilly) 60amp and it fit great. Wired the alternator up, unplugged and removed the voltage regulator, made a pigtail wit the plug that connects the white/black wire to the white/red wire, and the yellow wire to the white wire. The others are hanging free not connected to anything. I also unplugged the choke relay. I have SU's so the wires to the carburetor aren't connected to anything

 

My problem is that the battery is draining. With the motor running the battery is showing almost 15 volts, and 12 with the motor off.

 

Any ideas?

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Well the alternator plug that I used to join the wires, I removed all the others so there wouldn't be any possibility of one touching anything else.

 

R5IRJ6w.jpg

 

 Battery draw....

 

Choke relay must be unplugged at the right fender. It's the plug with the...

 

White/Blue

Blue

Black

Yellow   wires

 

Well I have no faith in today's re-manufactured crap. Very often they are 'bad in the box'. Take the plastic plug out of the back of the alternator and see if that removes the draw.

 

If no, I can't see what would cause this related to what you've done. So... remove each fuse one at a time till you find which circuit the draw is on.

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  • 4 years later...

91 HARBODY ALTERNATOR A DIRECT BOLT ON UPGRADE? THEN JUST RUN ONE WIRE FROM ALT TO BATTERY AND DELETE REGULATOR? BEEN CHASING DOWN ELECTRICAL ISSUES AND EITHER I HAVE EXCESS RESISTANCE IN MY CIRCUITS CAUSING FLASHER RELAYS TO BURN UP AS WELL AS A FEW OTHERS OR A FAULTY VOLTAGE REGULATOR. WOULD IT BE WORTH IT TO JUST UPGRADE ANYWAY?

THANKS

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1/ Through '77 all Datsuns had external voltage regulators. You could install the '78 - '79 620 alternators with the internal regulator but the old wiring needs some mods to convert it.

 

2/ Due to it's location on the side engine with the steering idler arm directly below it and the lower radiator hose wrapped around it there isn't much room for swapping to a larger diameter alternator. And yes, the D21 alternator is larger diameter, but has more room for it than the 620. The two wire plug is also not compatible with the 620 harness.

 

So I would go with 1/ as it will fit at least. No matter what internally regulated alternator you manage to fit in and still be able to adjust the belt tension without hitting the idler arm you still need to make some changes toi the wiring harness for it to work.

 

 

Remove the regulator and cut the wires off of it keeping them as long as possible on the plastic plug.

Bare the ends of the Yellow and the White wires, slip some heat shrink tubing over one of them and then solder them together.

Bare the ends of the White/Red strip and White/Black wires slip some heat shrink tubing over one of them and then solder them together.

 

Remove any other wires that are left so they cannot possible touch anything later. The finished plug should look something like this...

 

R5IRJ6w.jpg 

 

Plug this back onto the engine harness.

 

But...

Unfortunately, this mod permanently wires the choke heater ON and while the choke is off without the ignition on, the coil remains energized and will drain the battery over a weekend. The fix is to find and unplug the choke heater relay.

 

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t207/650savag/101_0097.jpg

 

But...

This means now that the choke heater has no power and won't be working. The easiest thing to do is go to the carburetor and find the Red wire to the idle cut solenoid and the Blue wire to the choke heater. (above) Join the Blue choke heater wire to the Red idle cut wire that is on with the ignition and is now the new power supply for the choke heater. Solder and heat shrink tubing.

 

It's seems like a long way round but it's the shortest and I have done this on my 620 and two 710s.

 

 

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Here's the wiring diagram to show you the jumpers for deleting the voltage regulator. This diagram has been posted here quite a few times before and I don't know who created it.

1532477431_wiringDatsun510-2.thumb.png.4214373fd30d5212072eb7fe88cee23f.png

and here is the automatic choke section for the later US models with junmpers, but you can just unplug it.

1883619493_wiring510elecchokeregulatorbypass.thumb.jpg.de8d4ed1dbeabe573b35ca637dc00941.jpg

electrical-1349-1.jpg.ee3e46d1994d5e7101b1f91df76e6238.jpg

 

And nobody give me a hard time about the wirenuts - I always use them to temporarily hook things up to make sure it works. Easy and quick to do, then make like DMike shows.

 

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Those two diagrams are for the 510. The two jumper wires are correct. H BRATSUN has a '77 620

 

1883619493_wiring510elecchokeregulatorbypass.thumb.jpg.de8d4ed1dbeabe573b35ca637dc00941.jpg

This also wires the choke heater relay on permanently. Red battery positive goes up through the fusible link becoming the white wire that jumpers to the yellow wire that goes through the coil relay to the black wire to ground. Unplugging the choke heater relay works, but now the choke heater has no power and won't turn the choke off.

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Well gee DMIke, how was I supposed to see the Bratson snuck in with a 620 - not that it matters, the wires are the same as you describe.

 

I pulled the choke relay at the connector and ran a new switched power wire to the choke on my Holley Street Avenger on the VG33 in the 510.

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