vern_k Posted July 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 finally got these made 1 Quote Link to comment
the510keeper Posted July 10, 2016 Report Share Posted July 10, 2016 Kitties are cool. Looks good 1 Quote Link to comment
vern_k Posted July 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2016 been really busy with work lately but managed to make it to the shop to get something done on her yesterday. I got most of the exposed metal covered still have a little on the frame rails where the leaky brake master cylinder caused paint loss. Brake line holders back on so that should be it for welding so I can foam the frame rails next time I have a chance to make it to the shop hoping that my foam is still good, will have to do a test mix to make sure..... 1 Quote Link to comment
Big_E-Dog Posted July 24, 2016 Report Share Posted July 24, 2016 ay! who said you can come over here LOL! but dang on the 200. keep working on it and dont give up!! ill be watching! Quote Link to comment
vern_k Posted July 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2016 ay! who said you can come over here LOL! but dang on the 200. keep working on it and dont give up!! ill be watching! hahahaha well you know just sneaking in where I can yea it's kind of a ambitions project, can't lie it's been challenging but with just a engine rebuild and a couple big price parts left to get there is no turning back now.... 1 Quote Link to comment
bananahamuck Posted July 25, 2016 Report Share Posted July 25, 2016 What is the orange car?? Yeah i'm lurking your stuff man. Quote Link to comment
vern_k Posted July 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2016 What is the orange car?? Yeah i'm lurking your stuff man. Thats Kevin's firebird Quote Link to comment
vern_k Posted August 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2016 had the weekend off so got the foaming finished up front frame rail filled getting set up to mix and pour this stuff will push out any place it can I know he said not to try and play with it when it's soft cuz it will stick to my fur but that looks hard and I should bat it around a little hurry up and get the back seat back in, it was comfy did a little welding before foaming the front hole in the rocker panel did the rear sub frame mounts with 8 Lb stuff it's adhesive enough to pull the printing off a mixing cup time for clean up and sound/vibration control you can't prove we did anything 1 Quote Link to comment
vern_k Posted August 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2016 a quick rattle can engine bay some Lizard skin sound deadener 2 Quote Link to comment
vern_k Posted September 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2016 didn't get a whole bunch done this weekend just some bolt hole cleaning and getting wiring back to where it belongs and started getting brake stuff taken care of 2 Quote Link to comment
Mattndew76 Posted September 7, 2016 Report Share Posted September 7, 2016 So whats the expando foam supposed to help with? 1 Quote Link to comment
bilzbobaggins Posted September 7, 2016 Report Share Posted September 7, 2016 So it floats. Or maybe structural rigidity 1 Quote Link to comment
vern_k Posted September 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2016 the foam helps with stiffness and vibration deadening, the readi foam is said to incresses stiffness by like 40% and that is 1.75 pounds a cubic foot the stuff I used was 4 lb in the main parts and 2 lb in the rockers, then 8 lb in the rear subframe mounts. this is the stuff I used http://www.uscomposites.com/foam.html 1 Quote Link to comment
S30Jay Posted September 8, 2016 Report Share Posted September 8, 2016 That stuff is probably difficult to work with when it's time to replace a rusty rocker panel. I'll bet it quiets things down a bunch though. 1 Quote Link to comment
vern_k Posted September 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2016 That stuff is probably difficult to work with when it's time to replace a rusty rocker panel. I'll bet it quiets things down a bunch though. not to worried about rust since I live in NM and the body is rust free, but yea it would be a pain if I ever have to dig it out for anything. 1 Quote Link to comment
vern_k Posted September 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2016 Control arms came, had the chance to mock them up and see what else I will need to change way to much low I have to get a hold of BC and see how far I can run them out safely, this is with ten turns in. I think I will have to make some spacers for tension rod brackets to get rid of the angle of the tension rod a bit you say daily driver but this smells like race car also test fitted my oval to round port adapter plates you know he is right this does smell on the race car side but I guess it could pass for daily racer still will need to louver the hood a bit OH MAN BUBBLE WRAP if you can get a strip of paper between it, it's a good fit right? so will have to make tension rod brackets spacers, mounts for steering rack, and maybe a adapter plate for TB 3 Quote Link to comment
vern_k Posted September 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2016 well got the last of the head parts I need to be able to take them into the machine shop 1 Quote Link to comment
vern_k Posted October 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2016 didn't get a whole lot done last weekend just mainly some test fitting and drop the engine back out to pull the heads off to take them into the machine shop for guides and seat touch ups which I dropped them off on Monday... test fitting my cheep ebay headers which I won't mind chopping up a little to make them fit better valve cover test, aluminum pathfinder think I will have them modified the 350z/G35 ones fit, but I dropped them and cracked the front edge when I was moving stuff around when the new racks went up, and I don't want to replace them since it would be less to have the pathfinders modified and they will be better I think would still have to modify the 350Z/G35 ones just not as much started making the spacer I need for my steering rack mounts hope to get that done this week so I can start making the brackets to mount it to the front sub frame and get that all set up and get it sand blasted and painted along with tension rod brackets 1 Quote Link to comment
vern_k Posted October 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2016 well put bearings and hubs in the knuckles this weekend and started working out final set up for the front (geometry pros step in please) one big issue is going to be tie rods I haven't been able to find anything that comes close to the bend I will need to make this work so more then likely will have to make something yep you should have remembered you FSM so you would know what you can trim out of that wiring and what you have to move I'm not that stoned I can still walk this still have some angle issues to work out and haven't made the rack mount yet but getting closer to final set up.... Dude didn't we talk about getting these seats back in So the drawer that had the nip in it was left open so guess who has been stoned for the last couple weeks ever been so high for so long you just sit on a tranny Think I will be spacing tension rod brackets down about 1 inch, to get rid of the downward angle on them, then work out where I need to mount the rack to get keep from getting super funky Ackermann, which looking at the factory parts the S12 the rack is mounted slightly in front of the steering arms and on the Maxima it is mounted slightly behind but with what I have played with so far I might be able just to go right in line and still get enough to help pull the front end around corners with out doing a sudden dive in but will need to get the rack mounted and some tie rods that don't max out just from the upward angle they have to be at. Think I'm going to make rack mounts adjustable so that it can be tuned a bit. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted October 18, 2016 Report Share Posted October 18, 2016 one big issue is going to be tie rods I haven't been able to find anything that comes close to the bend I will need to make this work so more then likely will have to make something Replace outer tie rod with a heim joint, relocate it to under the steering arm, then use a spacer to get it to a batter angle? This is what we did... Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted October 18, 2016 Report Share Posted October 18, 2016 Even just re tapering the hole, so you can mount the stock tie rod underneath the knuckle would change tie rod height by least an inch, if you aren't quite ready to try out DFs advice. Quote Link to comment
vern_k Posted October 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2016 yea been looking at some heim joint set ups, even with running a flipped tie rod set up it still wouldn't be enough, looking into bent bars just need to find or make the right parts...... it would be easy if it wasn't metric then I could just use stuff the off road 4X4 guys have developed, but I think I might have found the parts that I will need. Just to give you a idea of how far it's off it would be like lowering a S12 around 5 inches to place the steering arm on the S12 spindles to where mine are, yes I knew it was going to be a issue but couldn't do much about it till now.... Now where did I see those one parts I came across months ago.... 1 Quote Link to comment
vern_k Posted November 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2016 So thought I would make a update since it's been a while..... looks like I might switch the front knuckles that I'm going to use, after many hours of looking at ebay/google pixs, I think I have found some that will be a better fit, so more on that coming when I have a chance to go to u pull it and see what I can find..... the diff bearing going in my Maxima has set me back a bit, I wasn't able to find a tranny so I pick up a pathfinder so I could stop driving the Maxima hopefully before chewing up the tranny past the point of rebuild. On top of that I will be moving to a new house in the mountains tomorrow, the pathfinder is going to kill in gas on the longer drive to work but will be nice for dealing with the snow. I have had to do a few things like CV shafts and need to do rear and front mains, suspension bushing, but she runs and drives Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted November 23, 2016 Report Share Posted November 23, 2016 1. Knuckle details please. What are the new ones from, and why better? 2. Pay particular attention to the rear control arm/trailing arm bushings on that pathfinder. They cause scary death wobble at freeway speeds. My r50 pathfinder used to be super sketchy before I did those. Quote Link to comment
vern_k Posted November 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2016 1. Knuckle details please. What are the new ones from, and why better? 2. Pay particular attention to the rear control arm/trailing arm bushings on that pathfinder. They cause scary death wobble at freeway speeds. My r50 pathfinder used to be super sketchy before I did those. 1. Altima, the steering arm is lower making it easier to get better geometry with less work, there is a couple different ones I have look at, think it will come down to what I can find in the junk yard and still use 4 lug hubs, I can make the Maxima ones work but the Altima will give me more options down the road as far as ride height and tire size down the road..... 2. yea the tension rod bushings are bad but someone has stacked a bunch of shims on the front of the upper control arm, more then likely to try and get the caster back on when they should have just put new bushing in..... she does have the shakes at freeway speeds but think the junky front tires have a bit to do with that also. I have been looking at some hard core options for it but more then likely will try and put my car habit aside and just do a simple bushing install so I can get back on the 200sx Quote Link to comment
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