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Steve's 521 project (BRE)


Steve521

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Awesome!  I'm glad you guys could get together. 

 

What head is on the L16 that's in your truck?

 

Yeah, thank you so much for pointing me toward it...almost lost the chance to purchase it.  I haven't picked it up yet but will this week and of course take lots of pics of the L16 head removal and of the "new to me" L20. 

 

Honestly, I really don't know what head mine has...a stock one?  lol

 

 

Thanks again for the mention.  I will look into this.  :thumbup:

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When I was helping Steve, the other day, I briefly glanced at the :normal location for the head type, I did not see anything.  I under stand some of the "stock" L-16 heads are sometimes unmarked, on the side, but have a "210" cast in the front.

 

I think that if you use two smaller pipes, the size of the holes in the bottom of the exhaust manifold, it might be possible to get past the narrow spot between the transmission, and the torsion bar, with the two smaller pipes.  Then join them after, under the cab, and go to a bigger single pipe.

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Here is what Adam does:

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/30308-l-series-downpipe-flange-38-steel-20-shipped/page-4?do=findComment&comment=915332

 

and here is the flange you can buy from mklotz70 on here:

 

http://www.bluehandsinc.com/l-series-downpipe-flange.html

 

http://www.bluehandsinc.com/

 

I literally just talked to Mike about his flange.  I thought I was going to need one for my build.  He lead me on to Adam's post.

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Wow, how did I miss all the posts when I quoted Klassic?  I'll spend some time reading them tonight.  You guys are the greatest!  Thanks for all the help. ;-)  I'm really busy today but will be freed up tonight and Adam, I'm not gonna be able to come and get it today but I can tomorrow evening or Saturday morning or if those don't times don't work I'll try to work with ya on it.

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Tomorrow after 8 would be best, I'm at the rod run in Washington this weekend

 

Alright sounds good Adam, will text  you when I'm on the way.  I'm in S.E. Portland (205 & Division) so I'm thinking about 45 minute drive?

 

As far as all the tech help on this project, thanks again...read every word of it.  I wanna do this right so if I need to buy bits and pieces here and there for $20 - $40, I'll do it.  If I need to have an exhaust system put in the truck, I'll do it.  I'm just gonna go ahead and clean up my '92 Civic and put it up for sale because I believe the truck will be up and running soon because of all the great Datsun people I have around me if I get stuck. ;-)  The money I get for the Civic will go toward the truck. 

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Well, here's an update which isn't much of one but I want to stay consistent on the thread...

 

Here it is sitting on my creeper cause I don't have anything to set it on...lol!  Don't worry it is secure now and not able to fall over...just took pic of it while it was on it.

IMG_20130908_133333_076_zps45c0af58.jpg

 

I picked up the engine as planned from Eagle Adam and it definitely looks like a fine specimen but I had so many family things to do this weekend that I wasn't able to remove the cyl. head from the L16 in the truck yet.  Driving me crazy because I just wanna know what kind of shape the engine is in so I know what direction to go.  I have to replace the front brakes on my Dad's '95 LE V6 Camry tomorrow while he's painting and flooring our last room upstairs in our house but I'm hoping that after my wife get's home tomorrow I can get that head off.  Also, gonna remove the oil pan and see how things look in the L20...better be good or I'll be pissed. ;-)

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Steve, I think you need the L-16 oil pan, and pickup tube and strainer off the L-16 on the L-20-engine before you put the 20 in the truck.

I know you are curious about the L-16, but disassembling it now, just to look does not work toward your goal of getting the truck running, and just takes up more space.  Leaving it together keeps all the L-16 parts in the same place.

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hope youi know there are certain things to swap from a L16 to a l20.

Oil pan, pick up use the l16 motor mounts

Then thew clutch flywheel issue on what stuff to use. You have a Flywheel and what size is it and the T/O bearing set

 

Of coarse you got 200mm stuff right now. If you got a 225mm flywheel then you need totally matched stuff.

 

if your lucky you have a 200mm 6 bolt flywheel

 

 

those the L16 run?

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Steve, I think you need the L-16 oil pan, and pickup tube and strainer off the L-16 on the L-20-engine before you put the 20 in the truck.

I know you are curious about the L-16, but disassembling it now, just to look does not work toward your goal of getting the truck running, and just takes up more space.  Leaving it together keeps all the L-16 parts in the same place.

 

Thanks again for the info Dan and I know it was quite disorganized when you were here but I'm a very organized person believe it or not...lol and I've already cleaned up and made much more clean space in there around the truck and I figured it should only take me, what, about an hour or so to take that head off?  Plus, I figured I'd just take the intake and the exhaust manifold off with it so I can remove them on the bench (which is clear now...lol) and ultimately will make the block easier to remove from the truck.  I just figured it would be a good move since I'd like to know what happened in there and because it would be nice to be able to remove the manifolds on the bench.

 

OUT WITH THE L-16!!!!!!!!!!!!    :devil:   :devil:   :devil:

 

 

LOL, I'll get around to it eventually.  :thumbup:  One issue is I don't have a cherry picker like you do...lol so I will have to wait until I can borrow or rent one before I can actually remove the L16.   :sleep:

 

These are your words...

 

 

 

 

 Sorry, I couldn't resist...

 

ROFL ... oops didn't mean it like that!  :rofl:

 

hope youi know there are certain things to swap from a L16 to a l20.

Oil pan, pick up use the l16 motor mounts

Then thew clutch flywheel issue on what stuff to use. You have a Flywheel and what size is it and the T/O bearing set

 

Of coarse you got 200mm stuff right now. If you got a 225mm flywheel then you need totally matched stuff.

 

if your lucky you have a 200mm 6 bolt flywheel

 

 

those the L16 run?

 

Yeah, thanks again for info and now because of you guys, I'm well aware of what I'll need at this point anyway and I guess I'll just have to determine how much money it will cost me for parts and such.  I've done a lot of engine removals/rebuilds in the past so I know I'll need to look very closely at what comes off of the truck and what needs to go on it.

 

Thanks again guys for all your help and the only thing that will prevent me from getting this swap done is, well, just about everything...lol!  No, but in all seriousness, I have A LOT going on with family, the house, financial situations, etc. and I'm not gonna half-ass the job because I don't have the right parts to put the L20 in so if I don't have the money, I won't have the parts.  The good news is I'll be taking pics and video of my Civic tonight because I cleaned her up and get it ready to sell and I'm gathering up all my '70ish Camaro parts that I had from my previous "toy" and will be advertising them soon as well.  I will keep this build thread well updated though because I know how much I love looking through everyone elses builds.  :thumbup:

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It's pretty easy to remove the intake and exhaust before you remove the head.  I'd suggest removing them first.  It will just make life easier in the end.  The head is not heavy, but with the manifolds, you will have extra weight, less wiggle room, and just make things awkward.  You will need 12mm socket, 12mm boxed end wrench, a wobble adapter or 12mm wobble socket, probably a 12" extension, and a ratchet.  That's after you remove the water line and fuel line and other hoses from the manifolds.  When removing the studs, I find it works well to use the old method of tightening the bolts a hair first, then removing them.  Literally just a hair, just enough to break them free.  I haven't broken a stud on my Datsuns yet.... 

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It's pretty easy to remove the intake and exhaust before you remove the head.  I'd suggest removing them first.  It will just make life easier in the end.  The head is not heavy, but with the manifolds, you will have extra weight, less wiggle room, and just make things awkward.  You will need 12mm socket, 12mm boxed end wrench, a wobble adapter or 12mm wobble socket, probably a 12" extension, and a ratchet.  That's after you remove the water line and fuel line and other hoses from the manifolds.  When removing the studs, I find it works well to use the old method of tightening the bolts a hair first, then removing them.  Literally just a hair, just enough to break them free.  I haven't broken a stud on my Datsuns yet.... 

 

Yeah, it is a little awkward when you remove cyl. heads with the manifolds attached but I've done it many times in the past if the vehicle had a simple "disconnection" of hoses, wiring, fuel lines, etc.  I just prefer having the bench to remove things if possible.  As many years as I've been working on cars professionally, I'll just have to go with my gutt I think on this which could be the other way after I start disassembling.   B)

 

Personally I remove the exhaust manifold from the head and leave it connected to the head pipe and move it to the side, I just hate having to replace studs when I don't have to, especially the manifold head pipe connection, they always break on me.

When are you planning on doing the engine R and R?

 

Yeah Wayne, you do have a point there and if the exhaust to cyl. head bolts are gonna break it won't matter if the head it out of or in the truck ... hmmm.  As far as when I will do the swap will depend on a lot of things:  having the right parts (mainly the flywheel/clutch) which takes money of course, if the L20 is in fact in good condition and ready to be ran which I'll have a good idea on when I remove the oil pan to inspect since I'd have to swap the pan and pickup anyway and the big one non-Datsun related life/family issues which seem to be getting bigger.  I've also been sick the last couple of days but feeling better today.  One thing I do plan on doing though is updating this thread regularly at night so I'll keep everyone posted on when things are gonna happen. :thumbup:  

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Yeah, it is a little awkward when you remove cyl. heads with the manifolds attached but I've done it many times in the past if the vehicle had a simple "disconnection" of hoses, wiring, fuel lines, etc.  I just prefer having the bench to remove things if possible.  As many years as I've been working on cars professionally, I'll just have to go with my gutt I think on this which could be the other way after I start disassembling.   B)

 

:thumbup:

 

It's hard to tell on here sometimes how much experience someone has...  or doesn't have.  This seems to be a root cause for... "discusions", sometimes on here!!

 

I've got a slippery bench top, and I hate having to hold a part with one hand and turn a wrench with the other... versus everything being bolted down to the engine. Like you said, personal preference.

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:thumbup:

 

It's hard to tell on here sometimes how much experience someone has...  or doesn't have.  This seems to be a root cause for... "discusions", sometimes on here!!

 

I've got a slippery bench top, and I hate having to hold a part with one hand and turn a wrench with the other... versus everything being bolted down to the engine. Like you said, personal preference.

 

It's all good...definitely understand the "not knowing someone" situation.  I may have 20+ years auto repair experience but I am by no means an expert on all vehicles let alone any of them and I'm pretty slow when I work.  The key to being really good and get better is to listen and learn and not think you know it all.  I can learn a crap load from you guys I'm sure especially being that I don't know if I've even really worked on a classic Datsun other than when I rebuilt the 5 speed in my previous 280Z and replaced the valve seals in my S13 KA. <_<  I'm sure I have worked on Datsuns other than that but it would have been a customers car and I don't remember. :D    

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It's all good...definitely understand the "not knowing someone" situation.  I may have 20+ years auto repair experience but I am by no means an expert on all vehicles let alone any of them and I'm pretty slow when I work.  The key to being really good and get better is to listen and learn and not think you know it all.  I can learn a crap load from you guys I'm sure especially being that I don't know if I've even really worked on a classic Datsun other than when I rebuilt the 5 speed in my previous 280Z and replaced the valve seals in my S13 KA. <_<  I'm sure I have worked on Datsuns other than that but it would have been a customers car and I don't remember. :D    

 

Your short bios there sounds a lot like mine.   Up until a little over a year ago, I hadn't worked on a Datsun.  5 Datsun's later, a couple of manuals, tons of questions on here, and just diving in, has gotten me to where I am now.  They are simple, easy to work on, and a lot of the parts transfer from one vehicle to the other.

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Are you going to give your truck one of those BRE 510 paint jobs, with the diagonal stripes?

 

OR...how about a WW II fighter plane paint scheme?

 

mitsubishi_zero-s.gif

 

That is really cool idea actually but I am a big Trans Am racing fan and was in fact going to do a BRE scheme but I was thinking very clean, no sponsors/numbers and silver base, dark red and dark blue stripe.  This is the plan anyway. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

So, here I am hanging my head down in shame and tail between my legs. :sleep:   Haven't done a thing to my 'lil blue machine because of sickness in the family and working on selling stuff to have the needed money to fund this project.  Well, I sold my beater un-titled Honda Civic for my $750 asking price but only some of that will be available for me to use on the truck...yes I'm that poor right now.  :crying: 

OK, enough with the bad news of not doing a thing so far.  The good news is that my family will be out of town this weekend to the coast (happens about once a month or so and sometimes I go with) to visit my Mother in law so the minute they leave, I'm gonna go out to the garage and get my tool organization and cleanup finalized and get my bench cleared off so I can get to work on pulling the head of the L16, seeing if I can maybe pick up a cheap engine stand from CL and get the L20 on a stand and pull the pan just so I can start writing a list on what I'm gonna need and have a clear direction.  I will be posting pics along the way.

I do believe things are going to move along just a bit faster now since most of the upper level remodeling in my house is done and well, we only have one dependable vehicle at the moment.  :hmm:

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Wasn't the L20b a runner?

I have a rickety engine stand you can use, it rolls around good, just looks.........

You have the use of a engine hoist?

Taking the head off should go fast if certain things go well.

What time you thinking about going out to the garage?

 

Well, it looks good and is supposed to be a runner but since I have to take the oil pan off anyway,  I figured I'd check out what I could and as you know it's a little more safe and easy to do that on an engine stand.

 

Thanks for the offer on the stand and if you don't need it, I might take you up on that.  I do not have use of an engine hoist ... just figured I'd cross that bridge when I get to it.  I can rent one if I need to.  Did that before for a friends Toyota engine R&R job here.

 

Yeah, the L16 head removal shouldn't take too long and with you guys's Datto tips and tricks it should go even smoother.

 

So the bad news is I'm still chomping at the bit to get to the garage but my 7year old son stayed home from the family trip and he's still fairly sick so it will just depend on how things go with him...haven't got out there yet.  I HATE how busy my life is sometimes.  :crying:

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