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Daily Hillclimb Build (s30)


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#21 drummingpariah

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Posted 21 September 2013 - 09:51 PM

I guess this is one way to get your groceries home...

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#22 drummingpariah

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Posted 22 September 2013 - 04:38 PM

I got a little bit done this weekend, I've been fighting my welder quite a bit lately. It's developed a studder, so being able to work with a nice puddle just isn't happening. At best, I can get a reasonable tack. I'm not going to fall into this gumption trap though, so I moved forward with seam welding. It's slow going, but that just ensures that I take my time and let the very thin (20ga) sheet metal that makes up the majority of the body has time to cool in between tacks.

 

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I also took a little time to clean up the exhaust manifold that was paid forward to me (thanks Maltese!). A little VHT high-temp (1300F) paint, a little time in the over at 250F, and it's good to go back on the engine.

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#23 drummingpariah

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Posted 22 September 2013 - 06:58 PM

I also priced out my grip setup for the 2014 season. I'm not in a rush to order everything, but I wanted to log my thoughts here.
 
BART steel wheels - 15x8 with 3" backspacing (so the wheel would be 1" offset toward the outside of the car, fender interference is easier to solve than suspension interference)
http://www.summitrac...s/clm-5335825-3
$187.88/set

For tires, I'm looking at BFGoodrich G-Force Rivals. 200 treadwear ensures that they're considered 'street legal' for any event, and I won't immediately fly into the nearest lake if a little rain comes out of the sky.
http://www.tirerack....tnum=96HR4HTRAS
$460/set
$44.84 shipping
$60/set mounting

All told, getting sticky stuff (without overfenders, which may be necessary) comes to $752.72
That's not bad, if you ask me. Hopefully that'd last me a full season.

I may also order a set of inexpensive all-season tires since the price is right:
http://www.tirerack....tnum=96HR4HTRAS

#24 dat280z

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Posted 23 September 2013 - 07:14 PM

Your welds: not enough heat / not enough wire, one of the two. Nice project man!


6.0L V12 DOHC 280Z 


#25 drummingpariah

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Posted 23 September 2013 - 07:51 PM

Your welds: not enough heat / not enough wire, one of the two. Nice project man!


Yeah, I'm pretty frustrated. The wire feed has a studder so my pool starts to cool before it gets hot enough to get good penetration. If I turn the voltage up accordingly, I burn through the 22ga sheets, so I'm stuck until I can fix whatever's wrong. It only happens when I have a slight bend in the line (read: any time the gun is pointed toward the car) so it must be either a liner problem or frayed wire inside the line. I'll pull it apart this weekend, and if I get it sorted out I'll just go through all my previous welds again.

#26 Engy

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Posted 24 September 2013 - 04:57 AM

If you want to spend some money and get a guy who is really good at welding, I know a guy down in Manchvegas. He builds 240SXs for a living and he's a skilled welder, and I'm sure he'd be willing to do the weld work, for the right price. If you don't want to spend the money either he'd be a good guy to meet and maybe learn a few welding tricks from.

 

Love this build so far man.


~Sully

 

I'd much rather have an SR-20 than an SR-22

 

Honeybadger or nothing


#27 drummingpariah

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Posted 24 September 2013 - 05:57 AM

If you want to spend some money and get a guy who is really good at welding, I know a guy down in Manchvegas. He builds 240SXs for a living and he's a skilled welder, and I'm sure he'd be willing to do the weld work, for the right price. If you don't want to spend the money either he'd be a good guy to meet and maybe learn a few welding tricks from.
 
Love this build so far man.


Thanks for the recommendation, I have a friend who ran a foundry and is now a pro welder and welding instructor showing me the ropes. She's pretty awesome, and I've been enjoying the learning process a lot. I'm probably going to have the cage installed at a proper race shop, so I can lean on their experience for crumple zone assessment and ensuring that the cage is legal for all the events I want to participate in.

I spent most of my night last night at the NH EMS/Fire awards ceremony. Call me crazy, but I really like seeing the people who put their lives at risk for others get public recognition for their hard work and sacrifice (I have mixed feelings on posthumous medals). When I got home I felt pretty ambitious after hearing about the firefighters who made human ladders to save people because their ladders aren't tall enough, and started to clean up the wheels that should (hopefully) become my daily driven wheels this weekened. Photos to come once I make a bit more progress.

#28 drummingpariah

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Posted 28 September 2013 - 12:23 PM

9983329704_2baef7873e_c.jpg

Well, that explains why my ebrake never worked. There are no rear brakes! Anyone have some extras that they want to offload?

#29 Engy

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Posted 28 September 2013 - 01:02 PM

Why not go disc? If you're going into it you might as well go all the way, it would probably be easier to find some easy to swap discs than new drums.


~Sully

 

I'd much rather have an SR-20 than an SR-22

 

Honeybadger or nothing


#30 drummingpariah

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Posted 28 September 2013 - 02:02 PM

Why not go disc? If you're going into it you might as well go all the way, it would probably be easier to find some easy to swap discs than new drums.


There isn't really any reason to swap; Nothing I'm doing with the car requires much braking power. It would also mean adding a prop valve and retuning the brakes. Its also a lot of hassle, Id need maxima rears and a machined offset plate just to get started, and I just don't see an advantage. Drums require infrequent, easy maintenance and offer plenty of brake for a light little Datsun. I'll ask John at Bad Dog if he has some drums lying around somewhere, used or otherwise.

#31 drummingpariah

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Posted 26 October 2013 - 02:28 PM

It needed enough parts that I started looking around for a donor along with somewhere to stash the donor. I got lucky and one of my coworkers agreed to keep it at his place, outside under a tarp. This weekend I went down to look at a donor ... that ... really isn't going to be a donor. I'm going to register it then tow it home next weekend (not running of course, this is a Zcar).

 

All told, it cost me $1k

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It's much closer to street-worthy than the 240z is, so I think I'm going to toss it back together as-is. From the looks of things, all it needs is wiring and tires, but I'll know more when I get it home. In the long term, I'll probably put a carb n42 l28 in this and run it in 'stock prepared' class, since putting one of those in the 240z would put me in a higher class because the 240z never came with a 2.8. Since I don't have a salvageable 2.4 and don't really care to build a 2.4, I'll probably put the l28et that came in this one into that. The 240z has the class hit for going up to 2.8 either way, so I may as well cage it, put wide grippy tires on it, and built it into a more 'serious' hillclimb car than I was originally planning.



#32 dat280z

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Posted 27 October 2013 - 08:25 PM

Keep an eye out for rust under those side skirts. Great find if there is no rust!


6.0L V12 DOHC 280Z 


#33 drummingpariah

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Posted 28 October 2013 - 06:37 AM

Keep an eye out for rust under those side skirts. Great find if there is no rust!


There's rust behind the skirts (end caps) but not under them. It was one of the first places I checked. I'm going to discover some punky areas that need patching I'm sure, but if all goes well I may have it running by the end of this weekend.

#34 drummingpariah

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Posted 01 November 2013 - 03:11 PM

Update time!
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The money shot:
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I used an array of high-precision rust-identification tools (screwdrivers) to identify any potential rust problems, and this was all I found:
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I'll call that a win, and an easy fix.
 
There's a nice MSA (I think) downpipe that could use some header paint, and an o2 sensor!
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The most damaged of the wheels. These things weigh NOTHING, and they're currently fitted with 195/75-14 tires. Haven't checked their width yet, but the lack of heft has me a bit excited to use these for race wheels.
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I couldn't find the l28et afm, but I found a stock l28 one (I think?)
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I really hope this is an l28et ecu, not an l28e:
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but BW t5? I think I'll keep the Datsun 4speeds I have, and put this up for sale. What's the going rate these days?
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I have some major server changes to push out this weekend, so I won't have much time to work on it, but I may hire a friend to rewire the l28et for me. Being colorblind and working with wires that have been fading for the past 40 years isn't a good combination, overall. Has anyone put together a minimal l28et wiring diagram with the 'bare essentials' and nothing extra?

#35 drummingpariah

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Posted 08 November 2013 - 01:43 PM

I finally got both bumper skirts/covers off, along with one of the side skirts. The driver's side skirt is being somewhat problematic, so my drill is charging and my stepper bit is waiting for action.
 
Something was living in one of the rocker panels, and had nested in there. That nest absorbed some water, and ... you know where this is going.
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I found another small patch that'll need to be cut and welded in under the front wheelwell also:
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In more positive news, my first look under the car was really encouraging. The frame rails are reinforced and extended to the back of the car. It looks like all they need is paint and underbody coating, and I'm in business.
 
It's nowhere near as bad as I had expected, and replacement panels are available, inexpensive, and straightforward to weld in. I'll visit Bad Dog soon to pick up a pile of little things I need. Most of the other rust is just going to take some wire wheeling and a fresh coat of paint, but I'm sure there are a couple other spots I'll have to patch. I certainly didn't expect perfection out of a near-40-year-old car for $1k.
 
I temporarily repaired the passenger window (it's up, but only two of four tracks are attached, so it doesn't move from 'up'), and found that the ratcheting latch mechanism on the driver's door is broken. It's kind of a pain to remove, but I'm going to pull it this weekend and see if it's salvageable or if I need to order a replacement.
 
I haven't tried starting it yet (I'm slightly nervous to, if I'm honest) and haven't tried the brakes yet. I'll bleed them this weekend, hopefully prime the fuel pump, and possibly start it up.
 
After that, I think the tail lights are going to have to go back to stock. Corvettes can get away with Corvette lights, I don't find them pleasing on an s30.
10747725196_c9a4c38901_c.jpg

 



#36 drummingpariah

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Posted 09 March 2014 - 12:39 PM

There's quite a bit to update on, I've neglected this thread for almost the whole winter. I got sick of the bad/incomplete documentation on the stock wiring, and really haven't ever been impressed with the stock Nissan EFI, so I'm at the tail end of replacing it all with Megasquirt3. I wanted to do as little soldering as possible, so I ordered a pile of stuff from diyautotune. I've been very happy with some of it, and disappointed with other parts, but I'll update on that after the install is finished.

 

The wiring is nearly complete, I just need to figure out how I'm going to wire in the stock 280z dropping resistor pack to be able to use the stock low-z injectors with Megasquirt. The only soldering that's been my responsibility so far are the three primary leads for the relay box here:

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Today, I tackled the problem of the l28et using a very very crude Throttle Position Sensor (it's effectively binary, either you're IN the throttle or you're not). I've read that a lot of people swap to the ka24 throttle body on l28et's. I did some math, and came to the conclusion that a turbocharged 2.8liter only really needs a 50mm throttle body (up until around 300hp), and I can't think of a reason to swap to a ka24 throttle body in the near future. The problem with the 50mm l28et throttle body is that it doesn't really have a throttle position sensor. I measured the resistance output from the "l28et tps" and found it to be binary, either your throttle is ~75% open or more, or it's considered "closed". Megasquirt requires a real throttle position sensor (that offers different resistance at each throttle angle), I decided to swap to the ka24de tps.

 
I immediately noticed that the ka24de tps fits the throttle shaft of the l28et throttle body, but somewhere along the lines the mounting hole locations were changed.
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Not a huge deal, I thought. I'll just make up a little bracket to mount the ka24de tps. I grabbed some cardboard and a sharpie and started to mock up a design.
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I looked through the metal stock in my 'garage' (it's a sad, sorry excuse for a garage, but it generally works for me) and found some 1/4" steel plate that would work well enough for this little bracket. In general, you want to try to avoid putting steel against aluminum, as the materials react to all environmental conditions differently and can actually speed corrosion, but this is a small and non-precision part so it's not a big deal. I took my template and scribed the steel stock, and drilled a couple holes:
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Everything looked good at this point, so I decided to clean up the shape a little so it wasn't an awkward triangle on the throttle body.
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Unfortunately, I found a problem at this point. It's not a dealbreaker, and is easy enough to solve, but I'm pretty sure it's going to cause me to make a new copy of this part.
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The l28et throttle shaft bottoms out on the ka24 TPS, where the l28et "TPS" was a little deeper and fit flush. I'm going to take some measurements of this prototype, specify that the thickness should be doubled (1/2" thickness), and either send it off for 3d printing (a nylon printed part would be perfectly fine for this) or have it milled out of aluminum.
 
For the time being, I'm just going to keep everything as-is and stick some washers in to space it out, but I'm not happy with that as a long-term solution. I'll make the final technical drawing (and/or 3d file) available for download, and might order a small stock of these to sell if anyone else is interested.

 

Other Stuff

I also picked up a seat and some basic suspension tuning bits to prepare for the upcoming hillclimb season.

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The seat might look a little garish, but that's just my camera going crazy with saturation. It isn't nearly as overwhelming in person, and more importantly, it meets my technical needs of FIA approval and good bolstering.

12886948125_33e5dc08bb_b.jpg



#37 drummingpariah

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Posted 23 March 2014 - 02:36 PM

I cleaned up that TPS mounting plate, decided on a final mounting location for the relay box, and decided to try out riv-nuts as an installation method (it's easier than trying to weld nuts to the underside of the fender well). I think i also figured out my 'what muffler/exhaust setup to go with' issue: a friend was throwing away a few OEM F4 CBR600 exhaust cans and I snagged them.

 

They're pretty nice quality stainless with a 3" inlet and a 2.5" outlet. Once I figure out exactly how I'd like to mount them, I think I'm going to end up running a 1 > 2 muffler upstream into these. I've never been a huge fan of dual exhaust pipes, but two of these should give me just the right amount of flow for the l28et.

13365024793_5a8ba2b93d_b.jpg

 

I also had a little mishap with my grinder that caused me to go inside for the rest of the day and think about what I had done. In the scheme of things, this isn't bad at all, but it really puts into perspective how bad it could've been. I was wearing all the right protective gear (armored gloves, eye/ear, grinding hood, etc) but power tools definitely command my respect.

 

Photo not necessarily for the squeamish.

Spoiler


#38 drummingpariah

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Posted 25 March 2014 - 07:59 PM

Wiring has been slow going, but it's nearly all wrapped up. I still need to solder in the resistor for the distributor +12v signal and wire in the connectors for the injectors (along with the injector resistor box).

13418217705_3c199277e0_b.jpg



#39 drummingpariah

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Posted 30 March 2014 - 04:09 PM

The l28et is nearly ready to start, so I tested a few of the vac lines on the current l28et manifold. One broke off when I touched it, the other two leaked. I'm starting to think I should just use the n42 manifold, so I'm making a big push to get that prepped and ready to install this weekend, along with the high impedance Cobra Mustang injectors. The main problem I have right now is that they don't sit deep enough in the intake manifold - the orings sit ON the manifold bungs, rather than IN them.

13494525873_fe348514df_b.jpg

I just don't trust that to seal with 43psi of fuel pushing against it, I'm sending the manifold off to my friend sometime this week, and I'll have her machine them for me (I lack accurate tooling to do it myself).

 

Current progress:

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Time to order a catch can, a bunch of AN lines/fittings, and wait for my new ka24de TPS pigtail to come in so I can wire that up.



#40 thatdirtykid

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Posted 17 April 2014 - 08:13 PM

Did you ever get the bart wheels? Do they have the inner safety bead? I am considering cheap wide alternatives to alloys. Although it will be a weekend car I am not sure I want to risk a blowout being more catastrophic. Maybe its not that big a deal. I have only blown one tire beforw and I was dumb an new the tires were dry rotted...

I am enjoying the build. Look forward to updates!

I am new here, but man the old classifieds must have been good...