iwayman Posted August 26, 2013 Report Share Posted August 26, 2013 So I tried to fire up my vg30e for the first time this afternoon but I found it had no spark. I think I am not getting a signal from my ecu. I started out with a prw-2 mod since I couldn't find a stock transistor; http://z31performance.com/showthread.php?18665-Upgrade-to-PRW-2-Ign-Control-Module-(Power-Transistor-Unit) I believe my coil is good because I had 12v+ to + and manually grounded the - and saw spark. After that I thought I'd hook up my spare GM HEI module for shitz and gigz since it is easier to understand since I've got one on my Z. But this did not resolve my lack of spark, the + power to the coil is definitely good and that then makes it so the - is 12v+ like any other coil. Basically the - connects to the coil, the transistor, and Pin 3, however I do not know what the ecu does with this. The other wire goes to Pin 5 and I am pretty sure that is the sensor wire that basically operates the ecu. Could lack of spark be from some other sensor or lack-there-of? Does the neutral switch inhibit spark or just starter? Anyone have any ideas? Or know what Pin 3 does for a VG30e? As an aside I noticed that pin 20 does not trigger my relay on my can/am wiring box for my fuel pump as it should, I ended up just running ignition 12v to my pump instead. This could further indicate my ecu is bad but I'm not sure. Here's the wiring diagram I've been using: Thanks in advance! Quote Link to comment
Big_E-Dog Posted August 26, 2013 Report Share Posted August 26, 2013 run ecu codes if you get a code 23 ikely its dead. if the timing is off its dead as well. make shure to go through harness and connect all grounds Quote Link to comment
iwayman Posted August 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2013 run ecu codes if you get a code 23 ikely its dead. if the timing is off its dead as well. make shure to go through harness and connect all grounds The throttle valve/idle switch? Couldn't seem to pull up the self-diagnostic mode on my ecu, no lights what-so-ever appeared. http://z31.com/wiki/doku.php?id=repairs:codes The diagnostic switch/screw on my ecu looks like someone fiddled with it and applied too much pressure, there's no obvious stop when you spin in counterclockwise or clockwise. Are there supposed to be lights that show when the ecu is on? The jwt ecu in my z has both a red and green led turn on to indicate the ecu is on, so I assume all 280zx ecus do that. Quote Link to comment
iwayman Posted August 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2013 Well I tested my ecu by hooking it up to another car and it works fine, looks like I need to inspect my harness and make sure I didn't miss any grounds. 20 points to whoever can guess what this car is. Hint: it's a production car but is compatible with my ecu. Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted August 27, 2013 Report Share Posted August 27, 2013 Dude you can't swap out those sensors. they don't do the same thing at all. The Chevy module is for a VR sensor not the low output of the ecu. Are you getting injector pulse? That will tell you if the CAS is working. Quote Link to comment
ArchetypeDatsun Posted August 27, 2013 Report Share Posted August 27, 2013 Well I tested my ecu by hooking it up to another car and it works fine, looks like I need to inspect my harness and make sure I didn't miss any grounds. 20 points to whoever can guess what this car is. Hint: it's a production car but is compatible with my ecu. That's a Z31 300zx with a conversion of an older car I can't remember. Quote Link to comment
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