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putting in mr2 inserts and crap


DatMo

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So i need to buy those $60 caps?... and im dirt poor atm. ahh. damn. guess i wont make my deadline if i gotta buy em.

 

What makes those tophats different? I don't see anything special.

the top hat i have on now seems pretty similar.

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I'm not 100% sure you need those.  Let someone else chime in before you put the $$ down.  I know you need a bearing in the system.  So I think you need the first link.  It looks like you don't need the second link.  I haven't done a set of coilovers yet....

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I'm not 100% sure you need those.  Let someone else chime in before you put the $$ down.  I know you need a bearing in the system.  So I think you need the first link.  It looks like you don't need the second link.  I haven't done a set of coilovers yet....

 

I assumed that i need the bearings and tenafterfive explained to me that i do so that i could turn the car.

What an awesome guy, he said to send him my top hats and he said he could work it out for me for free but of course ill pay him.

he's an awesome guy.

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When using the factory 510 top mount, it has the bearing built in, so you can use the basic top hat like you have in the pic. However, if you change to the camber plates, they do not have a bearing built in, so you have to get the top hats that have the beading built in to them. (like the $60 ones from TTT)

 

You can always just toss your factory mounts back in for now, until you can afford the new top hats. Then you can at least drive the car in the meantime.

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Just run you factory bearing between the top hat and the camber plates... ran it on my 510 for more than a year with no problems.

 

2010-11-21131123.jpg

 

 

I actually got a hook up because it turns out my friends dad knows one of the guys that is the customer assistance or whatever at t3.

I bought the $60 for $40 so im pretty alright. thanks a ton though.

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  • 1 year later...

Gonna bump an old thread....sans the help of tenafter I'm in the same boat as datmo was...I got 280zx housings brakes etc, some aw11 inserts, and s13 camber plates.....I thought it was a fairly straight forward job , the insert doesn't sit snug, the gland nuts aren't compatible with the strut....is there a write up on how to do all of this? Search function came up with nothing. I'm completely lost

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Either drill out the 280zx gland nut to allow the MR2 insert to travel through it, and shim under or above the insert, depending on the desired effect you want. Or, contact Byron Meston on the Realm and ship your housings off to him. He will cut the housings to fit the new inserts, and cut new threads to match any gland nut. I believe he charged me $150 to do my set.

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I recently did a set of 240z struts for a buddy, where we dropped the AW-11 MR2 inserts in the housings, shimmed from the top (de-stroking the insert, but shortening overall length) and drilled out the stock gland nut. We cut 4 coils off the stock spring, so we still had almost 2" of preload on the spring. Surprisingly, it drives smooth. He was on a low buck budget, and we had many people scream not to cut the coils, but as long as you keep preload on the spring, it rides well. Dare I say, it rides better. It's a little stiffer than stock, but works smoothly. Now that said, being someone else's car, I did not drive it too its limits, but I never felt the car bouncing on the bump stops.... oh, and that's another thing, we cut some polly cone bump stops about in half, to allow for as much travel as possible, but still have something there.

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Seansm10, you can wrap tape around the top of the strut till the gland nut is snug, that will keep it centered while you tighten it. Once you get that nut cranked down, its not gonna go anywhere. You could also get fancy and make some kind of stepped washer to keep it centered.

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It won't let me click contact on his page.

Tenafter-no I was saying that I was/am having the same issues just didn't have the assistance that you were supplying datmo

Oh. Gotcha. Well if you need anymore help I've modified and sold about 75 sets of these. The one kicker that usually pops up is the top screw. It has like 6 different variations from manufacturer to manufacturer. If you need anymore help I would be glad to.

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