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Bruiser! 78 620 KC project


carterb

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Allot has happened since the end of April and Bruiser has gotten quite a bit of use.

 

You may have noticed in the "Swamp Thing" thread that the truck started running VERY POORLY on our trip to Shelton at the end of June. 

 

I found that one of the SU floats had sunk but was able to make trackside repairs to get back home to Lynnwood.

 

I figured since one was down - the other was not likely far behind so I ordered a pair of new floats from Z Therapy upon my return.  They arrived later that week.

 

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Here is a new composite float vs an old brass one:

 

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In the process of swapping them out I found a few very interesting things:

 

1)  After a week of driving, some of the sealant I had used to back up my float repair had unsurprisingly failed and was found floating around in the fuel bowl.

 

large.1686922574_07052020bruiser(3).JPG.

 

2)  The fuel was actually getting in the float via a crack, not a failed seam as I had originally thought.  (who knows, maybe both?)

 

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3)  BOTH floats had taken on fuel - not just the one I repaired.  The 2nd one didn't have much but you could still hear it rattle inside the float.

 

4)  When I repaired the float in Shelton, when I scraped off the solder covering the factory hole in the top of the float, the fuel inside came squirting out like a punctured can of pop!  It was actually pressurized!!!  How in the heck can fuel get in there against the internal pressure?

 

After the repair, I knew the chances were pretty good that I hadn't seen the last of this issue.  I pulled out all the old sealant I could see from the float bowl but come on...  With my luck?

 

On the 2nd drive with the repaired truck - on the way home from the grocery store with my wife, the truck suddenly lost power and forced me to stumble into the nearest parking lot I could find.  I removed the fuel line from the float bowl to the carb and it was clear.  Then I removed the nozzle from the bottom of the SU carb and found this jammed in there:

 

large.2013516405_07052020bruiser(5).JPG.

 

Reassembled everything and was back on the road with full power:

 

Hopefully that will be the end of it!

 

 

 

 

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Now the next bit of excitement - A couple weeks ago, Corey and I were idling in the parking lot at work making our way to the exit so we could get on the road to head home and all the sudden *BANG! WHIRR WHIRR WHIRR WHIRR*

 

Oh crap!  What is it now?!

 

I backed into a nearby parking spot, turned off the truck and got out to look what happened.  I started looking under the truck at the rear when Corey yells "found it!".  He was up front and noticed the engine fan was sticking out from below the core support - nearly touching the ground.  What the?!

 

I popped the hood and confirmed that the fan had left it's moorings and tried run for freedom out the bottom of the truck. 

 

With the fan now in - hand - and finding the mounting ring fully in tact and the fan only slightly damaged by some rubbing of the spinning water pump, I disconnected the upper radiator hose and removed the fan shroud.  I was surprised at this point to find the fan mounting screws still fully installed in the fan clutch.  I was not surprised at this point to find that the dislodged fan had stricken the radiator and caused a leak.  : (

 

I reinstalled the fan, topped off the radiator, and got ready to head home - figuring I'd have to pay close attention to the temp gauge.

 

large.07152020_bruiser.JPG.ade5cc9a0cfe9

 

We made it home no problem and hardly lost a drop of additional coolant.  Even under pressure, the hole isn't enough to create a stream, just a drip.  Still - the radiator would need replacing and I'm embarrassed to fully realize what happened at this point.  There are 12 holes in the mounting ring on the fan.  Four are intended for mounting and are just larger than the bolt diameter.  The other 8 are for??? and - as I just discovered - are big enough to slip over a bolt head. 

 

Despite my efforts to get it right, with the fan shroud disconnected but in place around the fan (I thought it had to be?), barely enough space for my man hands between the fan and the radiator, and no visual of the actual screw holes in the fan and clutch, I must have installed the bolts in the wrong fan holes so for the last 3 months, it was either not bolted down at all, or just barely under the corners of the bolt heads.  *sigh*

 

 

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I ordered a new radiator and the leak turned out to be so minimal - we were able to still drive the truck a few days while waiting for it to arrive.

 

To say thank you for its dependable service - I rubbed down the whole truck with TR3.  Never has it looked so good!  And now all the panels look really nice together.  Some of them looked like a slightly different color to their neighbor due to different levels of oxidation.

 

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Finally, the radiator arrived!

 

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Complete with giant puncture hole in the box - inches from the "FRAGILE" sticker.  Thanks.  No - really!  : (

 

I got the radiator from Rock Auto.

 

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I assumed I'd be getting a Champion aluminum radiator or something like that bout was surprised to find there isn't an offering for the 620 (that is bolt in) so I ended up with one of the plastic tank - aluminum core - aftermarket radiators.  I was worried at first but that is now all the new OEM radiators are built so...

 

Fortunately, the box damage did not extend to the radiator itself:

 

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So I drained the old radiator and got ready for the swap.

 

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Out with the old

 

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In with the new

 

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Would you believe it is 100% bolt in?!

 

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The only thing that did not match the factory fitment was a missing hoop to catch the radiator overflow line on the side of the radiator.  It even has the little bracket to mount the electrical box near the distributor.  I was both amazed and impressed.

 

Here you can see the damage to the stock radiator.

 

large.07252020_bruiser_(8).JPG.819452b2a

 

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I would like to have repaired it or replaced it with another stock radiator

 

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but now that this aftermarket one is in...  I'm glad I switched.  I can't believe how much cooler the truck runs now.  I don't have a gauge with numbers but in terms of sweep on the gauge, it runs at least ten degrees (geometry) cooler.

 

Very happy with that.

 

Still need to due some work on the SU tuning and possibly timing, and the engine makes quite a racket at idle.  Timing chain rattle?  It didn't do it before the head swap, but now does it constantly.  I'll try to share a video next time I think of it.

 

 

Edited by carterb
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  • 4 weeks later...

The truck is running decent at the moment.  It looks like new floats solved the over-rich condition (though you can still see the history around the collar)

 

large.07282020_bruiser_(2).JPG.7f4eee63f

 

Next thing to fix was the sticking chokes.  I have not been using them for the last couple of months because at least one of them would not reliably shut off when the choke lever was pushed all the way in.  I removed the nozzles and lubed them up with lithium grease, made sure all the linkage was free and clean, and now have been using them for a week with no issue.  Great timing as you know how quick summer turns to fall here in the NW.

 

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Lastly, I had an unused pair of stub stacks in my SU bin...  Might as well mount them!

 

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Still need to investigate the "timing chain rattle".  I'm thinking it might actually be the water pump.  I've had one of those go on me before in a 510 wagon and it made all kinds of noise on the way out.  Stay tuned...

 

 

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What's it been, a month w/o issue now?  That's too long I guess.

 

Corey came home home from school Thursday.  "Well that was fun!" he exclaimed as he entered the house.  "The throttle was stuck halfway open all the way home!"

 

Hmm...  Well, he made it home, so maybe that's a little exaggeration but I went out to see what may have been the culprit.  Stuck choke?  Jammed linkage?  Stuck throttle cable?  Nope, broken throttle return spring on the rear carb.

 

large.09032020_bruiser_(1).JPG.c4092b4d8

 

So it wasn't exactly "stuck open" but it would certainly take a little longer to spin down from higher rpms with one carb like that.

 

Front spring was thankfully still good or his ride may have been even more exciting!

 

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I removed both and set out to find a replacement pair

 

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In the process, I found that I have about 3 sets of SU carbs w/o throttle return springs...  Hmm.  I guess I'll be borrowing a set from Trouble then.  (that car is coming in very handy this month)

 

large.09032020_bruiser_(3).JPG.fe18e54e3

 

Springs installed and the truck is back in play.  He made the round trip today w/o issue.

 

Now to order 3 - 4 sets of springs I guess...

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 8/1/2020 at 1:42 PM, carterb said:

 

I would like to have repaired it or replaced it with another stock radiator

 

large.07252020_bruiser_(10).JPG.178a661b

 

but now that this aftermarket one is in...  I'm glad I switched.  I can't believe how much cooler the truck runs now.  I don't have a gauge with numbers but in terms of sweep on the gauge, it runs at least ten degrees (geometry) cooler.

 

Very happy with that.

 

 

There is an old school radiator guy just north of Lake Stevens that can rebuild that for you. Costs a bit more than that new one you bought, but worth it to keep the brass in my opinion. 

 

https://stans-radiator-repair.business.site/

 

He did the one in my RL411. 

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I used that exact same rad in my 710.  I made some “custom brackets” (cuz it’s narrower than a 710 rad) and cobbled together a lower rad hose from a 620 hose and a 710 hose (cuz the lower outlet does have the 90° turn). That rad works perfectly with the 2.2 litre I run. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Except for one of the SU chokes occasionally sticking open (we just don't use them now - a little rough to start but okay once warm) the truck has been reliable for a while now.  Good thing too since he's driving it to and from school each day.  We are fortunate to have him at a school with in-class instruction for his senior year.  Way to go Corey!

 

First day of school photos below:

 

large.09012020_corey_1st_day_senior_(2).

 

large.09012020_corey_1st_day_senior_(3).

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  • 2 weeks later...
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I'd been waiting for Christmas break to install a new windshield in Bruiser.  The old one is now ~1/3 de-laminated and has a huge crack for good measure.

 

I fished another new one out of the garage. 

 

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Unfortunately, it is the same manufacturer as the one we are removing so I expect it will eventually de-laminate as well.  Oh well, like everything else on this truck, if it's worth doing, it's worth doing twice!  : )

 

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I planned to save the existing seal since it is only a couple years old but just in case, I got another PRP seal through Route66

 

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Here is the rock chip that really did us in

 

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You can see the crack went almost all the way across

 

large.12292020_bruiser_(6).JPG.0eb3f3032

 

Since I'm saving the seal and not the window, I just sat in the seat and pushed it out with my feet.  I raised the hood and put a big comforter on it just in case the glass when flying but it was actually a very controllable affair.

 

large.12292020_bruiser_(7).JPG.2500e55ba

 

And here we go!

 

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The POR15 is holding up well and it doesn't look like the window frame rust has gotten any worse.

 

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I tried an experiment this time though.  The sealing surface is so rough from the rust, I thought I'd run a bead of "caulk" around the frame to fill in the low spots and leave a nice smooth lip.  I used some black Permatex for the job.

 

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I think the theory was sound, but this sealant is a little too thick and tacky to spread nice and smooth. 

 

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Still an improvement I think.  Don't worry about how ugly it is, it gets covered up by the seal.  (I tell myself)

 

 

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After letting that dry for 24 hours, I got everything set up for the install.  Armed with lots of soapy water and a nice new chord, I prepped the windshield and seal on the hood and then Brenda and Corey worked the outside while I pulled the chord on the inside of the cab.  After about 30 minutes of slow and careful progress, we have a windshield again!

 

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And after a twice-over with the glass cleaner

 

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Wow!  Can hardly tell there is a windshield there!

 

I was a little nervous about doing this with the dash in place (didn't I have it pulled out last time?) but it wasn't bad at all.

 

Before installing, I took this picture of one of the many areas round the perimeter where there is evidence of de-lamination.  Fingers crossed it will stay away for at least a few years.

 

large.12302020_bruiser_(1).JPG.c2d86bc2d

 

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One thing I've never liked about installing windshields is all the soapy water left in the seal afterwards.  I used a plastic tool to slip under the seal and follow with a shop towel all the way around to try to soak most of it up.  I suppose eventually it will evaporate but I want to seal the windshield and that water just doesn't seem conducive to a good seal.  Anyway, after drying it out as best I could, I followed around the glass and frame side of the weather side of the seal with some flow-able silicone sealant.  I've tried skipping this step in the past and when driving in the rain, water comes in everywhere!

 

large.12312020_bruiser_(7).JPG.3a0ec596a

 

Meanwhile, while the sealant is drying, I took to fixing a few other long-standing issues with the truck.

 

1)  address ugly rusty floors - paint with POR15

 

Before:

 

large.12312020_bruiser_(1).JPG.08bcd6b87

 

After:

 

large.12312020_bruiser_(2).JPG.1ea0e39b5

 

2) fix the weak left side tail light.

 

Here is the right side:

 

large.12312020_bruiser_(8).JPG.86cd50d7e

 

Here is the left:

 

large.12312020_bruiser_(9).JPG.bf6d6f943

 

May not look like much on the screen but I assure you, the difference is significant.  I first went through the wiring suspecting a weak ground but after finding nothing telling, I removed the lenses to check the bulbs - something I thought I had done years ago.  Well, the left side had a blue bulb in it.  Blue?  Why? 

 

large.12312020_bruiser_(4).JPG.2070b4d5a

 

I swapped in a clear one and bam!  Bright as the right!

 

large.12312020_bruiser_(10).JPG.3dc49e68

 

Sure glad I put that off for two years! 

 

3)  Next step, the battery hold down had failed and I employed a bungee chord.  First class fix right there!  So I removed the battery, removed the failed hold down flange which had succumbed to rust, and installed a new bolt going right through the fender well.

 

Done!

 

large.12312020_bruiser_(5).JPG.f4172d9a6

 

4)  Lastly, the old antenna support was broken so I installed a new one.

 

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Bruiser's never seen so much love!

 

I'll trim the sealant squeeze-out tomorrow, rain-x the windshield, re-install the wipers and then pull Bruiser out of the garage and pull in Slowpoke.  The Bluebird needs a little attention as well.  : )

 

Happy New Year everyone!

--carter

 

 

 

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Bruiser's looking pretty good for 2021. 

 

large.01012021_bruiser_(1).JPG.2a23497ad

 

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But I'd sure like to make it water tight this year.

 

Most of it comes in here, at the top of the foot-well between the firewall and the cowl.

 

large.01012021_bruiser_(3).JPG.eb6da26d3

 

I don't know if that is a sealant attempt by the PO or some factory sealant that has turned ugly due to the presence of water and rust.  But anyway, that's where it comes in - most of it.

 

large.01012021_bruiser_(4).JPG.76f7bee24

 

Is there a way to seal that from above?

 

While I had the cowl panel off I looked in there and I just don't really see direct access to this area.

 

I'd clean this up and apply new sealant but I'm afraid of trapping water somewhere.  At least as it is the water drains. 

 

Has anyone else successfully tackled this issue?

 

--carter

 

 

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You have to pull the cowl and fender to fix it correctly. 

There is a spot welded joint from the side of the cab to the top of the firewall with the overlap facing up. 

These trucks never got seam sealer and if the paint cracks at that gap water can get in there. 

 

You can see the seam if you look straight up under the dash in the corner near the kick panel.

It needs sealed from the top though.

 

It's my feeling that is the main reason the floors rot out in all these trucks. 

 

 

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On 1/2/2021 at 1:16 PM, ]2eDeYe said:

You have to pull the cowl and fender to fix it correctly. 

There is a spot welded joint from the side of the cab to the top of the firewall with the overlap facing up. 

These trucks never got seam sealer and if the paint cracks at that gap water can get in there. 

 

There is another potential route for that water to get in. I'll pop out into my garage and take a couple shots of that and post beck in a few minutes

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So the cowl was designed to drain out through a port hidden behind the fender, problem is after years of grime collecting there and not getting flushed away, rust begins. 

890826646_IMG_6834small.jpg.4493c61100cb3e09d794a25f236c351e.jpg

The white arrow shows the cowl floor and right below that is where it rusted through right into the cab.

1462221334_IMG_6835med.thumb.jpg.98217cba7150e9b75944bff566c48e4f.jpg

This is the inside showing the rust-through. The blue circles show that yes, the trucks were seam sealed by the factory about 45 years ago, and where the metal hasn't rusted away the seam seal is still in good shape.

917538255_IMG_6836edit.thumb.jpg.5b8f63b9d9d506d28c3dc4039211889c.jpg

Sealant won't hold onto rust forever. Once you get that cleaned up and repaired, you can re-seal it. Some old hot rod guys told me about using construction adhesive (Liquid Nails or similar) and it works like a champ, hardens without becoming brittle and bonds to pretty much anything.

 

Of course, you will have to pull off the front fenders to do the repairs.

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