74 620 KA24DE build

[Kold91]

Got my custom one piece drive shaft from Drivelines NW in Fife.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Did some wiring today

 

 

How to plug up the egr hole on the header

Installed with no torsion bars... max low

 

Should be ready to start it tomorrow, gonna sound beast with those open headers.

 

[TWright33]

Do you have a link to that fuse block setup?

[ramen tamer]

Okay, so this isn't really an update, since I haven't done any work on the truck.

 

I just figured I show y'all what I think is wrong with the air intake.

 

So!

 

Here's what it looks like under the hood...

 

So pretty.

 

But!  Even though I'm sure you can see it in the other picture, here's a slight close-up.

 

That bolt that holds the air intake onto the engine there, in the middle of the picture, is missing.  I ain't all that mechanically inclined, but I reckon that there is my problem.

 

The hose clamp holding the doohickey to the thingamajig is falling off, too.  Which reinforces this theory.  Here's a picture of that.

 

See where the hose clamp used to be?  See where he's migrated.  I'm sure that's bad.  Also, I can grab the air intake with my hand and wiggle it around with no effort.  I'm sure the bouncing around of the engine also has no problem wiggling the bastard about, either.

 

I'm also fairly certain that's the problem, because when I first got the truck, it was having the weird varying idle issue and occasionally dying on me.  I tightened that clamp and it ran fine for a few days.  Then it started having issues again.  And now it's completely undriveable because of how much the RPMs will vary at any given time.  Also, she's taken to backfiring lately...Which I also think is a problem.  Possibly caused by the same thing.  

 

I gotta get my battery charged, though.  The one in there is from my girlfriend's old car and it's dead.  I could jump it...But with the idle being all out of whack, that isn't gonna happen until I fix that problem.  So, it might be easier to just get the battery fully charged and then try and sort out the vacuum leak.  That way, just in case I'm wrong and this doesn't fix it.  I can continue to work on it and check my progress as I go, without having to get a jump every time I wanna check and see if I sorted it out.

 

Okay...Onto other stuff.

 

Edit: Oops!  Wrong topic.  Same truck, but wrong topic.  I meant to post this in the other topic where I'm talking about this thing.

 

I need to go down to Home Depot and get some of those U-shaped brackets, but shorter, so I can remove those lowering blocks on the rear end.  First, I'm going to need to jack this thing up, which means buying some jacks.  Since I've never worked on any vehicle before, I have zero tools or experience in the matter, but I'm just gonna have to figure it out as I go and try and glean as much info off of here as I can as I progress.

 

 

Keep in mind those rear blocks can also change the pinion angle of the rear differential.  Ideally the angle of the rear diff should match the trans.  To check it, the weight of the truck must be on the tires or similiar weighting points like the rear axle.  It doesn't have to be perfect, but I would try and keep it within 5 degrees of each other.

 

 

Like, I have no clue what this means.  But, I'm certain I'll find out.  

 

Anyways, my next day off is on Monday, but my pinball team is in the playoffs right now, so I don't know if I'll have time on Monday to work on the truck.  Tuesdays is for band practice.  Wednesday, as long as I'm not too hungover from pinball and band practice might be the only time this week I'll be able to accomplish anything.

 

Even if the only thing I accomplish is buying some tools and the proper bolt for mounting the air intake, I'll try to keep all y'all posted.  

[]2eDeYe]

That hole should have a valve cover bolt in it. They are a specific type of shoulder bolt. It was probably not engaged all the way with the tab on it and worked loose. That blue wire is going to cause the same issue with that other valve cover bolt that is not a valve cover bolt. These will cause oil leaks over time. 

 

The hose clamp migration isn't too bad. There should be about 1/4-1/2" of rubber on the end side of the rubber section (looks like that is where the clamp used to be) 

 

I offer a MAF bracket that will allow you to mount the MAF to the inner fender. You can add another rubber section there to isolate the crossover tube from the MAF. The MAF is the section with the wiring plugged into it just before the air filter. A rubber section there will also take care of the air leaks you are probably getting at the MAF, not sure how a hose clamp on an aluminum tube is suppose to clamp to a plastic tube inside it.  :confused:

 

 

Do not buy ubolts at home depot!
You can get a new drop block kit with new ubolts that match the blocks or get some stock u-bolts specific to the 620. You might be able to get some made at a local speed shop or 4x4 shop. 

 

 

 

Before buying a jack and stands, pick up a Datsun service manual or a haynes shop manual and read through it to familiarize yourself with the trucks systems. 

 

You have a nice start to an excellent truck there, take you time to learn about it before diving it, it will save you time and $ and you will have a more reliable truck in the end. :)