Salvage Yard 610 - "Anita"

[ProjectFeint]

It's worth the money to just get a weber... Going from the stock hitachi to dual sidedrafts was the single biggest improvement done to my 610, a 32/36 should really wake up your engine and hearing that induction noise  :yawn:  just makes you love your car that much more.

[EdwardK]

It's worth the money to just get a weber... Going from the stock hitachi to dual sidedrafts was the single biggest improvement done to my 610, a 32/36 should really wake up your engine and hearing that induction noise  :yawn:  just makes you love your car that much more.

 

 

Heh, so I've heard. Ordering the 32/36 carb either next week or the one after. Depends on how much overtime I work. lol

[orc1014]

Someone help i lost my 1974 dastun 610 keys and dont know whwre to get a mew one anyone that knows please help me i wanna drive it again!! Message me if you kno how to help

[datzenmike]

NOOB!!! You have already started two threads on the lost keys and they have been merged and fully answered. It's considered very rude to trespass into someone else's post and talk about your problems.

[EdwardK]

So, I'm thinking I'm gonna swap a CA18DET into this car, (Maybe.) and take it wherever my job/schooling may take me when I get laid off from AT&T.

 

I'm gonna redo everything before I declare it a worthy vehicle. (I'd do the same for my truck 'cept it's my daily and most of what I'm doing to it is tape and glue 'til I can redo it as well.) So on my current list in order of importance is:

 

New engine and tranny (CA18),

 

Overhaul the brakes, definitely gonna upgrade to something newer/better. S13 brakes maybe

 

I'm gonna want a newer rear-end unless someone can point me to a good rebuild kit for the current one.

 

Redo all the bushings, bearings, and the like for the suspension system. Any easy coilover swaps?

 

Obviously gonna re-wire the engine bay, everything else needs to be rewired too as the dumb*** who had the car before me butchered the wiring everywhere.

 

Some body work, (Get rid of the holes and make her water-tight again.)

 

Newer less rusty wheels.

 

 

Anyway! So far.... that's a rough estimate of $4k in parts.

[datsunfreak]

 

Overhaul the brakes, definitely gonna upgrade to something newer/better. S13 brakes maybe

 

 

FWIW, the swapping in 280ZX struts/brakes will be heaps simpler, and the 280ZX actually has bigger brakes than an S13.  :thumbup:

[Syncro]

I like where this is going.

[Syncro]

I like where this is going.

[Syncro]

damn double post fail.

[datsunfreak]

damn triple post fail.

 

Fixed.  B)

[ProjectFeint]

Like the idea of a CA and better suspension, if you do plan to go with a bigger powerplant then 280zx struts and slap some coilovers on it. With this route don't cheap out on rear brakes. Go disc in the rear or if you can't afford it at least get some new shoes with 240z finned drums.

[zerow]

FWIW, the swapping in 280ZX struts/brakes will be heaps simpler, and the 280ZX actually has bigger brakes than an S13.  :thumbup:

I've got this setup on my sedan. Worth every penny.

When you go looking for these strut assemblies, disassemble the hubs and verify the races are not freely spinning in them (I had a set that were doing exactly this)...in fact, I had found two other junkyard donors (while looking for a replacement) had the exact same problem. Better to buy the parts once, and not keep going back for more (and more and more)

Also, the strut will have to be modified. You must remove the original spring perch off the strut and either 1) weld a new ring perch for coilovers (the 280ZX springs will fit in the space provided in a 610, but the upper spring perch will NOT NOT NOT fit and will bind in the upper portion of the spring area on the 610) or 2) purchase a couple of lengths of 2 inch ID steel pipe (with 1/8 inch wall) and set it down on the strut tube to act as the new base for the coilover sleeve (also 2 inch ID - can be sourced on eBay for a small amount of money). With 280ZX struts, you will need a set of RCA's (Roll Center Adjusters/ Bump Steer Spacers) to realign the whole assembly and keep your suspension geometry correct. Finalize the installation with a nice (read:quality) set of upper strut mounts with camber adjust. I bought mine from T3 (Techno Toy Tuning). My alignment shop loves my car and all the adjustable pieces.

[EdwardK]

Like the idea of a CA and better suspension, if you do plan to go with a bigger powerplant then 280zx struts and slap some coilovers on it. With this route don't cheap out on rear brakes. Go disc in the rear or if you can't afford it at least get some new shoes with 240z finned drums.

 

Definitely not gonna cheap out on brakes and suspension. I want disks at all four corners if possible. And yah know, it's nice to be able to stop... Just in case.

 

 

I've got this setup on my sedan. Worth every penny.

When you go looking for these strut assemblies, disassemble the hubs and verify the races are not freely spinning in them (I had a set that were doing exactly this)...in fact, I had found two other junkyard donors (while looking for a replacement) had the exact same problem. Better to buy the parts once, and not keep going back for more (and more and more)

Also, the strut will have to be modified. You must remove the original spring perch off the strut and either 1) weld a new ring perch for coilovers (the 280ZX springs will fit in the space provided in a 610, but the upper spring perch will NOT NOT NOT fit and will bind in the upper portion of the spring area on the 610) or 2) purchase a couple of lengths of 2 inch ID steel pipe (with 1/8 inch wall) and set it down on the strut tube to act as the new base for the coilover sleeve (also 2 inch ID - can be sourced on eBay for a small amount of money). With 280ZX struts, you will need a set of RCA's (Roll Center Adjusters/ Bump Steer Spacers) to realign the whole assembly and keep your suspension geometry correct. Finalize the installation with a nice (read:quality) set of upper strut mounts with camber adjust. I bought mine from T3 (Techno Toy Tuning). My alignment shop loves my car and all the adjustable pieces.

 

Excellent, thanks for the information.

[EdwardK]

What are the chances I can get these parts (Struts, brakes, etc.) new? I'd really rather not use salvage yard parts unless absolutely necessary. (On this car anyway. :P)

 

I can find rear struts from Napa for about the same price the salvage yard wants for them anyway.

[ProjectFeint]

What are the chances I can get these parts (Struts, brakes, etc.) new? I'd really rather not use salvage yard parts unless absolutely necessary. (On this car anyway. :P)

 

I can find rear struts from Napa for about the same price the salvage yard wants for them anyway.

 

Finding brand new struts would be extremely difficult, just find junkyard assemblies or from a private seller and rebuild them. Bearings/seals/grease/shock inserts.

All very easy things to replace. also you don't need the spring, spring perch, top hats from the 280zx assembly... You replace those with your 610 springs and top hats or go with adjustable coilovers...

 

You could find "new" brake calipers but most of the time they are cheap china units that don't look or perform as well as oem units

[EdwardK]

Finding brand new struts would be extremely difficult, just find junkyard assemblies or from a private seller and rebuild them. Bearings/seals/grease/shock inserts.

All very easy things to replace. also you don't need the spring, spring perch, top hats from the 280zx assembly... You replace those with your 610 springs and top hats or go with adjustable coilovers...

 

You could find "new" brake calipers but most of the time they are cheap china units that don't look or perform as well as oem units

 

Ah, that sucks. I was hoping for some good aftermarket support. The ZX was an early 80's car wasn't it?

 

To the salvage yard! (As soon as I can get some time off. lol)

 

I coulda sworn I've seen some Brembo ZX calipers about somewhere.

[EdwardK]

Alright! Looking for a reputable JDM dealer here on the east coast, going through some of my buddies with the NASA-SE division. I plan to order the new engine sometime late January Early February.

 

I'm gonna make a checklist for things to be purchased and installed before November 2014. (My deadline.) Feel free to add your input, because this is indeed my first engine swap, and Imma need all the help I can get.

 

CA18DETT:

  Crate should include:

• Complete Head                              [Y]
• Complete Block                              [Y]

• Intake Manifold                               [Y]

• Exhaust Manifold                            [Y]

• Injectors                                          [Y]

• Throttle Body                                  [Y]

• Power Steering Pump (Delete!)     [ x ]

• Sensors                                          [   ]

• Fuel Rail                                         [Y]

• Alternator                                        [Y]

• Distributor                                       [Y]

• A/C Compressor (Delete!)             [ x ]

• Manual RWD Transmission             [Y]

• Wiring Harness                              [   ]

• Manual ECU/ECM                           [Y]

• Starter                                           [   ]

• Turbo + Manifold                             [Y]

• Clutch                                              [Y]

• Flywheel                                          [Y]

• Fan                                               [   ]

  I'll need:

• Intercooler                               [   ]
• Piping for turbos and such      [   ]
• Electronic Fuel Pump              [   ]

280ZX Suspension and Brakes: (Little to no experience with what I need here.)

   I'll need to buy from salvage yard or something:

• Struts                                    [    ]
• Brakes (Disks, Calipers)       [    ]

  I'll need to buy aftermarket:

• Camber Plates              [   ]
• Coilovers                      [   ]
• Shocks  ???                  [   ]
• Pads (Obviously :P)     [   ]

Other Stuff:

• New Fuel tank (Unless the one I have turns out to be useable)            [   ]
• Wheels (Optional) and Tires (Mandatory)                                             [   ]
• Rebuild Brake and Clutch Master Cylinders.                                         [   ]
• New Steering Wheel                                                                              [Y!]
• Paint and Body Work (Optional)                                                            [   ]
• Rear End (Either rebuild or swap to something new)                             [   ]

 

 

 

But yeah, I'll update and add on to this list here as I get stuff and get input from you guys. In the mean time I'm just gorging myself on all the information I can get! lol

[Will]

When you get the 280ZX struts from a junkyard, you can probably pick up the calipers and discs at the same time (if they're in decent shape.)

 

It is a pretty easy swap - you'll just need to alter the spring perches and use your 610 springs or get a set of coilover springs. (I have some pictures of the setup on my 710's thread - should be pretty similar to a 610: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/34485-710-project-thread)

 

Any pictures of the car after it got hosed off?

[EdwardK]

When you get the 280ZX struts from a junkyard, you can probably pick up the calipers and discs at the same time (if they're in decent shape.)

 

It is a pretty easy swap - you'll just need to alter the spring perches and use your 610 springs or get a set of coilover springs. (I have some pictures of the setup on my 710's thread - should be pretty similar to a 610: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/34485-710-project-thread)

 

Any pictures of the car after it got hosed off?

 

Awesome, thank you!

 

I'll see about snapping some shots tomorrow when it's light out. I might have a couple random ones about though, so I'll do some digging tonight and post 'em.

[EdwardK]

After just one coat of wax the shine was already coming back. (All I've done so far is one coat btw. :P)

 

 

 

Old Steering Wheel

 

Painted the J-Lines and got the trim Re-attached.

 

A little cleaner... Wheels and tires are miserable.

 

 

The chrome film was peeling off this back part something fierce, so I scrubbed it and painted it black. (I'll need to redo it sometime as it was a shoddy job getting the old chrome stuff off.)

 

 

 

Iunno... It's a Datsun.

 

 

Haven't done a whole lot to the interior. I have a new steering wheel for it. (as soon as I get something else for the truck.) That dash is mighty sad. I'm thinking maybe taking the padding off and making a carbon fiber cover for it? Idunno.

 

 

 

 

Anyway, that's all the photos I have right now.

[Tristin]

I dont think Ive ever been in this thread. I love the yellow. 

[EdwardK]

I dont think Ive ever been in this thread. I love the yellow. 

 

Thanks!

 

Now all I need is a red 510 and I'll have all the primary colors! :D

[EdwardK]

 

 

Alright, I'm stumped. How to I get this off? It's all nice and loose except the lock.

 

 

 

 

And a couple of those promised oics.

 

Nothing very new.

 

 

Started working this dent out. Gonna need to paint it.

 

 

Aaand I love these designs on the doors.

[MicroMachinery]

 

 

Alright, I'm stumped. How to I get this off? It's all nice and loose except the lock.

 

 

You have to pull the turning lock-knob straight out. It's a little tough, but it will come off. After that, that hole that looks like it no longer has a screw in it once held a screw. Once you unscrewed that, you should be able to pull the latch straight out as if you were opening the door. From there, you can pull and twist the black piece off. Be careful; that one looks like it could disintegrate in your hands.

 

Here's what the peg looks like close up with the knob pulled off and the black trim removed.

 

I'm loving this 610. The color is great, and the brown interior is the same as mine. Keep it. Rock on.

[EdwardK]

You have to pull the turning lock-knob straight out. It's a little tough, but it will come off. After that, that hole that looks like it no longer has a screw in it once held a screw. Once you unscrewed that, you should be able to pull the latch straight out as if you were opening the door. From there, you can pull and twist the black piece off. Be careful; that one looks like it could disintegrate in your hands.

 

Here's what the peg looks like close up with the knob pulled off and the black trim removed.

 

I'm loving this 610. The color is great, and the brown interior is the same as mine. Keep it. Rock on.

 

 

Ah okay! Thanks. I figure it was something simple like that, but I am afraid of disintegrating that plastic like you said. I wanna make a mold from it if possible... But it might already be too far gone for that. We'll see.

 

That screw was there thirty seconds before. lol Now it's in the ashtray.

 

Thanks, I love the interior, only thing I plan to change is the dash and carpets, (Maybe the seats later on.) but I think brown leather goes great with the car. As far as the paint goes, Imma get it color matched somewhere and repaint it with some PPG or something just as good, I don't trust the cracked and flaky stuff tha's on it right now.