Twisted Images Bagged, Body Dropped, & Rotary Powered 510

[Creepy Cruiser]

We also just went through this same thing (spun a rod). We desided to take a chance on this full master kit on ebay,  http://www.ebay.com/itm/95-97-Nissan-240SX-2-4-Master-Engine-Rebuild-Kit-KA24DE-/250812309804?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a6594212c&vxp=mtr   and it turned out to be much better quality than we expected., The local price for just the timing set and new oil pump, was about the same price of this whole master kit with about everything. We've got quite a bit of miles on it now and we run the crap out of it, and it's still rockin great. Nothing like a killer fresh motor.

 

[twistedimages]

NaudiS4 - that's so generous of you! Thanks so much for the offer and the advice. PM sent your way.

 

Creepy, I'm considering that kit anyway, since the cost of several of the included components (timing set, gaskets, etc) comes to almost as much! Great to hear the quality is decent- that was holding me back a bit.

 

Appreciate all the advice- helps tons when making these decisions!

[Tristin]

I pretty much just went through the same issue with mine. Ended up getting a machined crank from NAPA for $175 with rod and main bearings. I would suggest a new oil pickup, and possibly new oil pump plus the obvious cleaning and what not. I definetly suggest rebuild, you never know what you are going to get with a used. Start fresh.

 

I have a lower intake, MAF and stock rods with ARP's in them that I would sell to you for shipping...I also have a harness but i may need it. Let me know if you want them. I am in Washington.

 

Nice project so far too.

 

Im like, who the hell lives in Bremerton and I dont know who they are?!... nevermind, hi Mike. Dont mind me, Im just an idiot. 

[NaudiS4]

Hi Tristin! I should be getting my car back in 2 weeks. Fingers Crossed. Still some good weather to meet up with some of the local guys.

[twistedimages]

Well, it's been way too long since my last update!  My buddy's shipment that contained the wheels got delayed due to the government shutdown, and I've still been on the fence as to what engine to run, so I got a bit stalled.

But I've gotten a few things done since my last update.  I'll have to owe you some pictures, though, because I'm bad about documenting progress.

 

I made a couple of trips to Pick N Pull and grabbed a bunch of hardware for the Toyota front suspension, so now I can bolt it all together with real bolts.  I designed a set of airbag mounts that will gusset off the frame and upper control arm mounts, so I just need to bolt everything together and weld those brackets up to finish up the front suspension.

I also designed a set of brackets to tie the front clip to the frame- basically, the Toyota frame clip will have a boxed section with sleeved bolt holes, and the front clip will tie into that with a pair of 1/2" bolts on each side.  Once I figure out what my radiator clearances will be I'll add a crossmember/crash bar up there, too, but this will allow me to bolt the front end together with more than a couple of sheetmetal screws!

 

I had the rear hubs redrilled to 5x114.3.  After reading a few cautions about it because a couple studs end up close to the edge of the hub, I decided to take a chance and go for it.  This car will have some fairly skinny rubber on it and will be light, so I don't think it'll hook up enough for it to ever be an issue.  With the hubs machined, I picked up a set of cross drilled and slotted rotors for a 240sx and for the Toyota front hubs as well.

 

Finally, my wheels showed up!!  They have some oxidation, but otherwise are in excellent condition!  So, I pressed some studs in the rear hubs, mounted the rotors, and did some more trimming to end up here:

 

http://www.twistedimages.us/510/160.jpg

 

http://www.twistedimages.us/510/161.jpg

 

Now I've got to figure out exactly what tire size to run, cut a bit more, and get some airbag brackets figured out for the rear before I can button up the suspension fully.  But the correct wheels are here, and they're (just barely) gonna fit!

 

More updates as they develop- thanks for looking!

Edited October 27, 2022 by twistedimages
oics

[Creepy Cruiser]

Nice!

[r0p0doe]

Nice to see this thing is still being worked on,I was wondering where it went.

[twistedimages]

Quick update, more pictures.  I ordered a tire for test-fitting purposes- the clearance at the rear quarter is so tight I needed a tire that wouldn't balloon out from the lip of the rim, so I went with a 165/50-15.  Holy crap- what a tiny tire!  

http://www.twistedimages.us/510/165.jpg

http://www.twistedimages.us/510/166.jpg

Had the local tire shop throw it on one of the wheels, and after a bit more trimming I dropped the jack and put the car back on the ground.

http://www.twistedimages.us/510/167.jpg

http://www.twistedimages.us/510/168.jpg

 

With the rear suspension moved upward, the wheels don't camber in at the same point as stock, so at ride height (hopefully 1-2" off the ground) I'll be 1-2 degrees negative, with the wheel and tire just barely clearing the sheetmetal!

With that work completed, I finally cut out the stock trunk floor- it was already hanging off the passenger side quarter, so I just had to pull the rear bumper and make a few cuts.

 

http://www.twistedimages.us/510/175.jpg

 

I left a bit of a flange at the tail light panel, but I'll most likely cut it back flush once the frame is extended back to the bumper mounts.  Here are a few shots of the inside as it sits now:

http://www.twistedimages.us/510/169.jpghttp://www.twistedimages.us/510/170.jpghttp://www.twistedimages.us/510/171.jpghttp://www.twistedimages.us/510/172.jpghttp://www.twistedimages.us/510/173.jpghttp://www.twistedimages.us/510/174.jpg

 

Still a long way to go, but over the next week or two the plan is to get the front and rear suspension assembled, get three more tires for these wheels, and then it's back on the trailer to head to my buddy's garage to build the rest of the frame!

Edited October 27, 2022 by twistedimages
oics

[Eagle_Adam]

this will be epic when finished.... 

[jalen]

Almost tucking lug nuts!

[jrock4224]

um I got a rusty ruby vibe from the last 5 pics lol ...

[Cpl620]

eat your heart out "rusty mcslamington?"

[jrock4224]

I said a vibe.... I have no doubts this thing hits the street .....keep it up like the bbs too

[Dirttrack510]

Hurry up and finish this one.... Then go rescue RUBY!!!

[twistedimages]

Hurry up and finish this one.... Then go rescue RUBY!!!

Ha! When (if) I get this car on the road, I've still got my 521 to build...

No more projects, and certainly no more rescue missions!

Thanks for the motivation, guys- I'm gonna try to hit this thing hard over the next few weeks and make it a roller!

[Creepy Cruiser]

Nice!

[Eagle_Adam]

youve already done more than ruby, looks like you got this man 

[Busta Nut]

This thing will be bad ass on the street!! :thumbup:

 

Keep up the great work!!!

[The Taterhead]

Don't remember if it's been said but DO NOT PAINT THIS THING. It is fucking badass just like it sits.

[twistedimages]

The level of rust and patina is just about perfect- it's rough enough that it's really not worth anyone's time to repair, but not so far gone that it'll fall apart when I drive it.  

 

So yeah, it's staying just how it sits!

 

No real updates, BTW.  Haven't made the time to get out in the garage.  But it'll happen soon.

[Dime Dave]

Twisted,

Give some thought to raising the rear cross member so the trailing arms/axles are close to parallel to the ground. It will help with rear suspension geometry and help keep vibration down. The half shaft u-joints at odd angles will make the car vibrate going down the road. That or convert to CV's. 

 

Besides you need a new driveshaft tunnel anyway :rofl: .

[twistedimages]

Dave,

The crossmember is about 4-5" higher than the stock location already- any more and I'd have positive camber at ride height!

I haven't measured the exact camber angles, but at ride height I'll be around -2, and fully dropped will be closer to -4. Just enough to tuck, but shouldn't wear tires too unevenly.

 

And I can't wait until all I need is a driveshaft tunnel!  Right now it would just kind of float in mid-air!

[Dime Dave]

Dave,

The crossmember is about 4-5" higher than the stock location already- any more and I'd have positive camber at ride height!

I haven't measured the exact camber angles, but at ride height I'll be around -2, and fully dropped will be closer to -4. Just enough to tuck, but shouldn't wear tires too unevenly.

 

And I can't wait until all I need is a driveshaft tunnel!  Right now it would just kind of float in mid-air!

 

You've got it covered. It is a little hard to tell from the photos, but at -2 at ride height you are not far off being parallel with the ground.

 

Radical U-joint angles can shake the fillings out of your teeth.

 

(Pssst, I just ordered a BC Fab roll pan for Oil Drop.)

[twistedimages]

I saw the order- thank you!  I'll make sure it's one of the best ever made!

[jrock4224]

had no idea ... I been to bc fab site before I will use it on the next rig I build .....lol I keed........ long live fbi ......lol not