Weber Twin DCOE throttle linkage. Best options

[hobbes_the_cat]

My 70 510 has an LZ21 with twin weber DCOE 40s on a cannon intake. I have a cobbled together linkage that is binding and causing me trouble. It is the style where the linkage is on the firewall and the throttle shafts are connected in the middle with an adjustable bracket. It does not have the rod mounted to the manifold and is not center pull.

 

I want a nice linkage setup and really want to get a kit of some sort so that I don't have to make a million trips to Tacoma Screw. I have seen a few different styles and I have heard that a cable setup is a good way to go but I'm having a hard time finding one that isn't in the UK.

 

What style and brand linkage kits are you running, do you like them, and where did you get it? I would also be interested if you had one for sale.

[Silky_Johnson]

If I had Webers, I would buy all of the following:

 

http://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/pm3719.htm

 

http://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/pm40930.htm

 

http://www.jegs.com/p/Lokar/Lokar-Hi-Tech-Throttle-Cables/749864/10002/-1

[Ratwagon1600]

I made my linkages from scratch using this.

 

 

To make this.

 

 

Ultimately I'd like a cable setup like these but they ain't cheap and my home built linkages are working just fine.

 

http://www.weberperformance.com.au/index.php?cPath=3_74

[ProjectFeint]

I have the same exact setup on an l20b and want to go cable linkage as well, and switch from a floor pedal to an s13 cable pedal... Looks like the cheapest route is to piece together your own like silky's post and even then it's not too cheap. Keep us posted

[hobbes_the_cat]

Yeah, I'm willing to spend a few bucks on something that works. I have a combo of worn out factory pieces and worn out aftermarket stuff and it's causing problems. If I had the time and ability to fab something from scratch like ratwagon1600 I would but that's not going to happen.

Silky: I like the bottom mount coupled with the Locar cable that you suggested. The top mount style with the double spring looks like it would work well but it's really pricey and looks ugly.

If no one else comes up with a better idea I think I'm going with Silky's suggestion. I'll let you know how it turns out.

[Silky_Johnson]

If I had some Weber's, I would throw that centerpull linkage on immediately without batting an eye. But alas, I have Mikunis, and centerpull linkages for Mikunis are made from unobtainium.

 

IMO, the centerpull linkage is the best, like on Ratwagon's car. It seems to be the most reliable way to sync up the two carbs, because it's so simple. Anything past the sync adjustment isn't really that big of a deal. I figure that so long as the carbs sync up well, you can use any generic cable or other linkage setup to push or pull the throttle pretty easily?

 

Do this:

 

 

 

Not this:

 

 

 

The rod linkage with separate dog bones for each carb sucks. I count six places for moving parts to wear out and mess up the sync between the carbs. The centerpull kits sync the carbs without any moving parts.

[Silky_Johnson]

 

 

 

Ratty, what carbs are these?  They aren't DCOEs or DCOMs, right?

[Ranman72]

buy a lowkar center pull cable linkage kit you wont regret it 

mine was jumpy on slower starts because of motor movement and linkage set up 

also this will reduce pedal vibration on your foot with the cable 

this is a mr gasket kit which sucks but needed it in a pinch dont short yourself get a lokar kit here is some pics to give you ideas 

[Ratwagon1600]

Ratty, what carbs are these?  They aren't DCOEs or DCOMs, right?

Italian Dellorto 45DHLA.

 

For all intents and purposes, similar in form and function to the Weber 45DCOE (although the purists may disagree).

[flyfish]

Ratwagon1600... I would seriously suggest you change the return spring of the windshield wiper motor to the linkage. You have created a bridge from the motor to the body of your vehicle via the carburetor transverse rod... 

 

Perhaps instead you could isolate the carburetor transverse rod and linkage then place the return spring on the engine.

[hobbes_the_cat]

So I went with Silky's idea and got the bottom mount and a Locar cable assembly and It works good. I didn't need the center pull assembly as I already had one so the parts ended up being around $80. Not cheap but worth it. Parts look clean, and I didn't have to drive all over looking for little fittings. The only thing I still need to work out is a better place to mount the return springs. Right now they are mounted on the rear air horn and an arm on the rear throttle shaft and I don't like it.

 

[Busta Nut]

I know it may be a bit late.....

 

 

 

...but this is what I did for linkage....used some parts from a 240z and some from a 510.

 

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/40947-project-5teeezya-pharaohs-510/page-12

[wagoon]

Anybody know what length of Lokar cable to buy for my 510?

[TENDRIL]

they are cut to fit.

 

but i think 20" is what i cut mine too, and was a bit long, at the same time i dont have any restrictive bends

 

 

i have dual webers  

 

 

http://youtu.be/Kr7MTSu4wQU