Just bought a 1971 521 for 5 large ($500)

[pwrcat4000]

Ok I have it roadable, but now it is over heating. I have had the rad repaired not sure if it was cleaned when they repaired it. It ran a little over the mark  for about 300 miles then I trailered a bunch of brush to the dump it was pinging pretty badly so I got out of it and just went slow. It did not get to the red mark. I decided to load up my motorcycle in the back just incase put 91 octaine in the tank and headed out of town got about 50 miles out of town pinging at 65 to 70 and it went to the red mark.  I cam back to the shop and adjusted the timing to the middle mark and tried it again no piniging but still heated up to the red mark at about 50 miles.

It also studders in 4th gear when I try to hold a speed does not seem to matter what speed 45mph 55 mph 65mph I remember reading a thread some where about something in the distributor that needs to be replaced/adjusted for this problem but cant find the post now.

The motor makes alot of noise in the valve train consistant ticking I had a 1977 toyota that was the same way so I don't know if that is "normal" noise from japanese OHC motors or if there is something I need to adjust in the valve train it seems to run ok

I have put 1200 miles on it just rolled over to 98K

 

Here is what I have done

Master cylinder (Done) $38

Rad repair (Done) $40.

Change oil (Done) $30

Pressure wash 40 some years of neglect off the drive train (Done) $ 3rd degree burn from steam cleaner I will heal

LH window Regulator (done) $40 Thanks erichwaslike

Get head lights to work (Done cleaned fuse holder) $0

Rear view mirror (done) $20

Paint the American  racing wheels on it 6 bolts definitely not a GM (Done white) $10

Adjust brakes/Brakes (Done) line repair $80 Parts $40= $120

Fuel filler hose (Done) $17  (overflow has seperated from the tank need to JB weld it) minimal leak

Trailer lights (Done sort of the brake light triggers the marker lights)  $20

new front tires (Done) $130

Back up Light (Done) $2 bulp and some wiring

Filter/Oil and Lube $20

Zmax oil additive $18

New Plug wires $30

 

$535 or about $500 (Have I doubled the value of my truck?)

 

need/want to be done

Fix tears in bench seat (Has Mexican blanket on it right now green and orange may end up using that)

Floor covering of some kind (Orange Shag?)

Hood adjustment and prop rod (using a boat ore now It came with the truck AWESOME)

Paint it ? On the fence may just leave it buffed like now

AC?  may be cost prohibitive (I know I am a huge wimp)

Cruise control? ( wont need this if I cant take it out of town)

Bluetooth hands free radio. ($120)

Hit 160 mph in it (This is probably unrealistic) I would like to go at least 80 mph without it blowing up.

 

I would appriciate any help with these issues

Overheating

studdering in 4th gear when tring to maintain speed

valve train ticking noise?

[KlassicMotion]

Did you change the Thermostat too?

What is your timing actually set to?

Have you adjusted the valves?

Have you checked to make sure you have oil going to your valve train?

 

The noise in the valve train, should not be there. 

 

Just from what your saying, I'd look to timing again.  I'm not sure, but it sounds like you are too advanced, but other things could be at play.

 

Definitely adjust your valves too, or at least check to see what they are set to.

 

You could also plug a vacuum gauge into your intake and see if you have a blown head gasket.

 

Bookmark this site and read through it.  It will help with some of your current questions, and future questions:

 

http://www.olddatsuns.com/

[pwrcat4000]

More pics

this overflow tube is no longer attache to the tank JB weld?

 

cut this aluminum at the Highschool they have a shear made it easy

 

New plug wires and a clean engine

Painted the drums red

 

I pulled my "one peice at a time" Trailer to the dump Pinged pretty bad

 

Arrribia

 

Farmyard engineering

 

 

98K

 

Dem ebrake cables done broke

I can only get/got  the Left one new so I will probably order another left and make it work

 

I can charge my phone to make calls when I break down!

 

DATSUN painted and the scotchbrighted to match the rest of the bed

[pwrcat4000]

After 15 min at idle

 

May be the gauge and I had to add a little wire to the sensor

 

here is what the motor sounds like at idle mp3

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B2MsEGiii_MOcGtWX1UwQkZqVEU/edit?usp=sharing

 

The timing was originally on the top mark advanced as far as the distributor would allow I retarded the timing to the 2nd mark as retarded as the distributor would turn the idle slowed down and it does not ping  The last owner was having idel issues and turned every screw and advanced the timing and ect. they even had the throttle cable adjusted to keep it running at about 1300 rpm I would guess I cleaned the carb set the throttle cable up corectly and have been playing with the idel screw and the other screw (vacume to the distributor)

when I remove the oil cap and the truck is running lot of pressure comming out of there blew oil all over me so I think at least some oil is getting there
KlassicMotion

I went to http://www.olddatsuns.com/

I cant seem to navigate the site I get 404 on the How to's I have no idea how to adjust the valves on this truck but I would bet that is what all the ticking is

 

Here is where the distributor is set now I advanced it alittle w/o a timing light so I dont know how much

[banzai510(hainz)]

looking good

I like the tail gate and chain mod you did.

 

L Motors are EZ.

 

always ask ratsun we can tell you what to look at 95% of the time with in a few days.

 

Rememerthese are old rigs but most electrical proplem son 521 is corrossion around the fuse box area. Not really bad wiring. Most of mine was alwasy corrossion.

[XXL]

 

Here is where the distributor is set now I advanced it alittle w/o a timing light so I dont know how much

 

 

Get a timing light.  Those marks are pretty close to worthless.

[KlassicMotion]

Your timing is set off the timing marks down by the crank pulley.  Hook a timing light up to #1 plug wire, with the truck running, point the light at the timing marks.  It should be set at 10* BTC.  It it's not, then at that point you adjust the distributor until it is...  It sounds like the PO, didn't know what they were doing, and you could have multiple issues.... start with a proper timing setup.

 

You might also have vacuum leaks.  Take some brake parts cleaner, with the engine running, spray it around the base of the carb and the intake gasket, and any vacuum lines.  If the idle changes when you spray a certain area, then you found a leak.

 

Make sure your firing order is also correct before doing anything else.

 

Have you checked the spark gap or dwell?

 

All these things are the basic tune-up items I check when I buy a vehicle.

 

 

[KlassicMotion]

More pics

this overflow tube is no longer attache to the tank JB weld?

New plug wires and a clean engine

Painted the drums red

DATSUN painted and the scotchbrighted to match the rest of the bed

 

The best option on the gas tank is to have it soldered back up, but better than JB weld is a similar product called "gas tank repair".

 

A quick and effective way to mask off parts when painting is just to take some computer paper and hold it against the surface.  It's bendable and thin, so you can get it down in between the tire and rim.

[pwrcat4000]

mine looks different there is a single pointer on the passenger (Right as driving) and 6 marks on the ?harmonic balancer? I can see them with the timing light it was advanced to the last (top) mark pinged like crazy under load

I retarded it to the second mark I could not retard it to the first mark as the distributor would not retard any more the idle slowed down it stopped pinging under load. (still reading hot on the factory guage) after posting this afternoon I advanced it alittle I dont have a timing light here at the house so I don't know what makr it is at now but I will find out and post that.

 

 

This may be the problem with my gauge I had to replace the sensor, the wire connector just disintegrated when I did.  I put the yellow extension wire in the picture on it.

 I suspect this guage works like the one in my 1978 transam via resistance

If It does then that is probably what is going on the gauge is misleading me.  It does not boil over it just reads high on the gauge. See prevous photos above ~190F in the rad at idle after 15-20 min.

 

[KlassicMotion]

My thermostat is a 190* thermo.  190 is good.   The hot temps don't concern me until you get the timing set properly.  I forgot, did you unplug the vacuum advance from the carb and put a plug on the carb nipple when you timed it?

 

Moving your distributor should give you full range of movement down on your timing marks.....

 

I still think you are fighting a timing issue....

 

98K miles..... I wonder if your timing chain and guides are worn, throwing you timing out of spec.....

 

Just an additional check;  have you unplugged the vacuum advance from the carb, and sucked in on the hose?  When you do that, put your tongue over the hose and see if the vac advance holds the suction.  If it does, the vac advance diaphragm is good, but you should also pull the cap off and see that the plates in the distributor are moving with the suction.

 

In the least, do you have a Haynes manual on the 521?

 

You might PM DatzenMike and give him a link to this thread.. Maybe he has more advice....

[wayno]

If this is your temp below,

and this is what the gauge is showing at 184 degrees below, then your gauge might be off a little, mine runs just past that black line in the middle except on a hot day, then it goes just past the middle.

I have seen my 521 diesel hotter than you show in the photo above going up the grape vine north of LA on I5, but it was fine, just working very hard for an extended period of time, it's not un-normal for it to run warmer when working the engine hard.

[pwrcat4000]

KlassicMotion

Is the vacume advance the steel line comming off the carb because if it is... no i did not take it loose it looks very fragile and I am afraid to try and take it loose. I considered blocking it off with the adjustment screw in the carb but did not do that either. The distributor has no other vacume looking attachements,

 

Rumor is the motor was "rebuit" at 90K I don't know what Rebuilt means top end chain and valves or mains rings everything that is what I would call rebuilt?  I assume top end only since the front main leaks it is unlikely they did the bottom end or who knows they may have done nothing and just said that the PO died 3 months ago so I cnat ask him without that meduim chick on tv LOL

[KlassicMotion]

Rumor is the motor was "rebuit" at 90K I don't know what Rebuilt means top end chain and valves or mains rings everything that is what I would call rebuilt?  I assume top end only since the front main leaks it is unlikely they did the bottom end or who knows they may have done nothing and just said that the PO died 3 months ago so I cnat ask him without that meduim chick on tv LOL

 

Oh.....  There may be issues with the timing chain....  It may be off a tooth..... 

 

Another thing to add to the list, Put the engine on TDC (easiest way to get it close is, pull all the spark plugs, tightly stuff a paper towel down number one, and bump the ignition until you hear the towel get "popped" out of the cylinder).  Then double check to see where the timing marks line up, they should be close.  Pull the valve cover off and look at the cam mark in comparison to the numbers on the sprocket.... This is all in the Datsun Engine manual....

 

Just by what I'm hearing from you, this is how I'd be going about things...

 

 

I wish we could get some other opinions in here like D.M. to get a full range of help....

[KlassicMotion]

KlassicMotion

Is the vacume advance the steel line comming off the carb because if it is... no i did not take it loose it looks very fragile and I am afraid to try and take it loose. I considered blocking it off with the adjustment screw in the carb but did not do that either. The distributor has no other vacume looking attachements,

 

 I forgot yours would have a steel line... start by soaking the steel line at the carb and at the distributor in some penetrating oil..  Keep it lubed for a day or two, then put your wrench on it, tighten it a hair first, then try to un-tighten it.... Naahh....  I'd just do this instead; you can cut the tube, with a tubing cutter 1-2 inches away from the carb and distributor, eliminating the crusty tube in-between. then replace the steel tube with a vacuum hose.  If the steel tube is that badly rusted, it may have a crack and is causing a vacuum leak....  This way, you don't bother the threads into the carb and distributor and save yourself grief if the threads don't budge....

[KlassicMotion]

What I wouldn't give to be back in Kansas and be able to drive down and work with you...   Instead, I'm watching the snow accumulate on the mountain tops right now... Winter will be here in less than a month!!

[pwrcat4000]

Ok took all your advice drove the damn thing down to the shop took the cap off the distributor checked vacume advance pod after like a ton of wd40 I got the tube off and did not break it YAAAA!

tried to suck on the pod it was completely frozen shot another ton of wd40 on it took the 2 screws that hold the pod and carfully disconected it from the distributor off to the parts cleaner cleaned the crap out of it and got it unstuck still doesnt seem like it is working with vacume of me figured I would put it back in and buy one tomorrow put it back together with the vacume disconected

Hooked up the timing light started the truck it was at the 3rd mark retarded it and played with the carb controls to get it to idle at what sounded right to me started getting alot of white smoke out of the tail pipe (which is somthing new it has never smoked before unless I flooded it) figured not enough timing advanced to the 5th mark reved it up a little still smoking a little buttoned everything up and took it out on the street for about .5 miles stopped smoking. On with the test run tried to take it up to speed got to about 50 mph and Ks Hwy Pat in my rear veiw so that is as fast as I could go until he was gone but when holding it at speed it DID NOT STUDDER! wonder if the frozen vacume advance was to blame it will studder in 4th at about 30 mph but that is more like I am in too high of a gear than loosing power like before,

The hwy pat turns hammer down still think I hear pinging but I am not sure? hit 60- 65 - 70 - 75 still cant tell if it's pinging I could tell before easy.

It seems to be running great tonight, did not get any hotter than it did at idle this after noon, but it is cooler outside now so I dont know if that is why or what.

Still think I may buy a new vacume advance pod tomorrow see if I get more improvement.

The clicking is still there seems like it is comming from #3 cyl figure I will tackle valve adjustment sometime soon (after all I watched a you tube video on how to do it so I can LOL)

any tips on adjusting valves

Thanks

KlassicMotion and wayno

I will post after I replace the pod if I can get one tomorrow but it seems to be fixed for now.

[bananahamuck]

If you have never adjusted your valves that could be making it weeze a bit if they are to tight,, which happens when they wear. Adjust them when hot even though it might sting a few times ,,it is the best way.... We drove home 70 521 once after purchase and you had to keep it pegged to the floor get to the next gear ,, adjusted the valves and that thing would bark the tires in third..

 

 

good L motor info in here   ,  http://olddatsuns.com/

 

 

Wanted to also add,, good on you for bringing this ole rig up to running state man.. :thumbup:

[KlassicMotion]

So, with the vac advance un-plugged, do you have the carb side plugged?

 

Something to consider... some will say yeah, some will say nay, but if you have to buy parts for the distributor, you might consider, spending a bit more and getting a late model electronic ignition distributor...  About $100, plus you will have to do some wiring and buy a new coil.  Nothing difficult though.   I have one on my 510, and I just got one in the mail for my '73 620.  They are nice, because they don't use points, and they are newer... '78-'80 or so.  You will have to buy one used so you get the pedestal with it.  Otherwise, you can buy remanufactured ones at Autozone.

 

I would check with Pifer's auto salvage out on 17th street east of the airport, or with Silas enterprises there in Hutch.  Silas ent. owns most of the yards in your area.  Surely one of them has a 1979 or 1980 Nissan truck with an L20B.... While your at it just grab the whole engine!!!

 

Adjusting the valves...  it's time consuming, not one of the jobs I enjoy.  The only tip I have, is when you have your feeler gauge in there, I found on my car, that it needed to be slightly looser than it should, because when I tighten the lock nut back down, the lash got tighter even when I held the nut tight.....  So it took me a little practice to get them set perfect.  Do you have a manual to read from for setting the valves, or do you need a step by step tutorial with clearance specs?

[KlassicMotion]

If you have never adjusted your valves that could be making it weeze a bit if they are to tight,, which happens when they wear. Adjust them when hot even though it might sting a few times ,,it is the best way....

 

I read in the manual that you only have 10 minutes to do them hot, before they cool down too much...

 

If you've never done them before... I'd suggest practicing on them cold.  Then take it down the block, warm it up, and check them again.

[KlassicMotion]

L20B in your area:

 

http://wichita.craigslist.org/pts/4089802653.html

 

Running 521 $300 in Newton:

 

http://wichita.craigslist.org/cto/4084254434.html

[pwrcat4000]

 

Well here is my current pic the hood is fixed and I have a l20b in it now!

 

[Elkie]

Not sure you noticed, someone stuck a wildcats plate on your truck.

[Charlie69]

That hood looks great Powercat.

 

How do you like the L20B?

[banzai510(hainz)]

flat black that hood!!!!!!!!!!

[pwrcat4000]

 

Look similar

banzai510

 

All finished not bad for 45 min tape and 3 cans of spray paint it is not perfect by any standard but it communicates the point.
I know some people find this design offensive. I picked it because of the stylistic appearance it just looked cool. I did not pick it due to my love for imperial japan, it is not my fault they sucked and had a neat flag. It has no meaning or anything.