Jump to content

Another 510 KA24DE-T


Recommended Posts

Ok, so this is my first Datsun and second project car.

I bought my 1971 510 from an older gentleman in OR in April for $5,700. It is pretty much stock with a mikuni carb'd L20B, ok interior, pretty good paint and NO RUST. The car ran like garbage when it arrived but after my brother in laws' carb cleaning it seriously ran awesome. Here are some pics of it as it sits.

image_zpsea3bc8a5.jpg
image_zpsa3bd9391.jpg

 

Some bird shiz on the door
image_zps7879a821.jpg
image_zps316ec5a3.jpg

Link to comment
  • Replies 352
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Now the plan is to get all of my needed parts for the build prior to tearing it apart. I'm not too concerned about cosmetic stuff so ill leave the paint, spray the engine bay black and call it good. Also, the interior will be taken care of later. Gonna clean it up really nice and replace anything that is nasty or falling apart but after everything else is done. So far this is what I have:

 

KA24DE

Haltec Sprint 500

Haltech WBC1

AEM MAP sensor

Generic IAT Sens

BC stage 3 cams

BC valves springs and retainers

head is ported

90mm Wiseco's 9.0:1

Pauter X beam rods

Calico coated ACL Race bearings

ARP Studs

ARP turbo/manifold studs

Xcessive Intake Manifold

Cometic gasket

240sx 5 speed

Exedy 4 puck

Fidanza flywheel

LS1 coil pack setup

05 JDM STi 3.90 clutch style R-180

Beta stub axles

McKinney engine and trans crossmembers

McKinney engine mounts

Custom downpipe and traitor pipe exhaust

GReddy TD05H-18G w/ upgraded Kamak STS Turbine Wheel and Kamak Billet Compressor wheel

Isis T25/28 turbo manifold

280zx front struts

Ermish Rear Coils 220 lb.

T3 weld on coil kit 275 lb

KYB AGX adjustable 95' Toyota MR2 inserts

T3 camber plates

T3 Steering Box Brace

T3 Pitman / Idler arm braces

Stainless brake lines

280zx front brakes

Nissan Maxima Rear disk brake conversion

A ton of AEM Gauges and custom Speedhut speedo, tach and fuel gauges

DGR front sump sway

Roll cage that we will fab up to fit

DW 1000 cc injectors

AEM top feed fuel rail kit

Sard fuel pressure regulator

Dual Bosch 044 external pumps

Generic oil cooler kit

Byron Brackets

Old school Recaro seats

Mishimoto Poland overflow tank

Synapse Radial R35V BOV

CX Racing KA/SR-510 intercooler and radiator

Summit braided fuel line and 6AN hose ends

Fuel Safe SP117

1980's Nardi Wood Steering Wheel

Boss Hub Adapter

Wink mirror

Full set of T3 interior panels black powder coated

Show and low wheels:

SSR longchamp XR4's 14x7 +1 front w 155/55/14's and 14x7.5 -6 rear w 165/55/14's

Go fast wheels:

Thinking about something in 15x8 0 offset with 205/50 or 225/45 R888's

Link to comment

Eh, if it's really that clean, I might pony up the dough.  Realistically you could spend the same amount on a mid-90s Honda in great condition.  But then you'd just have a Honda, not a Datsun. ;)

Link to comment

Haha

 

I had a buddy a while ago who sold his Maxima to buy an STI like yours.

His plans included a lot of the things you did.

 

Him and I lost touch.

Got a little excited when I saw your Subie.

 

But I'm even more excited see how the 510 turns out.

Link to comment

I had a buddy a while ago who sold his Maxima to buy an STI like yours.

His plans included a lot of the things you did.

 

Him and I lost touch.

Got a little excited when I saw your Subie.

 

But I'm even more excited see how the 510 turns out.

Ah got ya. Ill try to keep this build thread as detailed as I can but things will move pretty fast when we start so that might be difficult
Link to comment

Depends how much power you want.  For AutoX, the wider tires you can fit the better.  

 

Those cams aren't really optimized for a turbo setup, you're better off sticking with stock cams or if you really have the dough, pick up a set of turbo cams (not cheap).   Also you're probably going to need something bigger than a T25, those are too small even for SR20s.

Link to comment

Depends how much power you want. For AutoX, the wider tires you can fit the better.

 

Those cams aren't really optimized for a turbo setup, you're better off sticking with stock cams or if you really have the dough, pick up a set of turbo cams (not cheap). Also you're probably going to need something bigger than a T25, those are too small even for SR20s.

I'm not really asking for advice on turbo/ head work options but thanks. Really just curious how it will handle auto cross with 7 wide or of the trade off for ruining the fenders with flares would be worth it. And are you being serious about BC stage 3 cams not being good for a small turbo setup along with what I have for valve train and porting? I really want good response, minimal lag, and a little more power than N/A. A few others have instructed me otherwise
Link to comment

Those cams aren't really optimized for a turbo setup, you're better off sticking with stock cams or if you really have the dough, pick up a set of turbo cams (not cheap). Also you're probably going to need something bigger than a T25, those are too small even for SR20s.

The turbo I am using is off of an RB25 Neo... How will it not be enough for a fully built KA24DE? Lol
Link to comment

Yeah moar tire for auto-x, I am all over the place on 205 Rivals with an SR/T28.  225+ would be better...

 

Right foot discipline would help me though... :)

Yeah I hear ya...just still can't decide on whether to ruin the stock fenders or not

Link to comment

May I suggest an intermediate step of a cautious but healthy pull.  With a well done roll/pull, precisely spec'd wheels, maybe notched control arms and proper suspension/alignment you could do a 225/45R15 and maintain the clean fenders that you've got.

 

6.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment

Depending on the pull, maybe +20 but I would get more like +30 and notch the arm or use a small spacer.  I have a 4 door on 195/50R15x8 +20 and a 1/8" spacer out back, it's very tight.

 

That picture ^ is lower offset and stretched tires, more + offset will get you more section width :)

 

Probably best to get the suspension set up before you buy wheels, the rear camber/caster kit and ride height will have an affect on fitment when you are on the edge. 

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.