hobospyder Posted February 17, 2016 Report Share Posted February 17, 2016 The glove box door s really scratched up and needs to be redone. I found a 2nd flag. A Japanese naval insignia, and a Japanese national flag. I think restoring the glove box door and clear coating the flags on it is the way to go. What do you think? I like this 1 Quote Link to comment
Dguy210 Posted February 17, 2016 Report Share Posted February 17, 2016 Finally got some free time and warm temperatures to work on the Sedan again. I am concerned about the driver's side frame rail damage. The damage is considerably worse than the picture shows. A big dent at the frame rail at the floor pan to fire wall transition. Somebody went off roading and I didn't know about it. I don't want to do any more rust treatment that will have to be redone if the frame rails need reinforcement. Any feedback is appreciated. That doesn't look so bad but you did say it was worse than the pictures showed. What about derusting and hitting it with some weld thru primer? That would stop the rust but still allow you to reinforce it if you wanted (maybe box the frame with some angle iron?). 1 Quote Link to comment
Morrisun Posted February 18, 2016 Report Share Posted February 18, 2016 One solution is to install frame connectors... It would cap the leg and provide extra strength, may even keep your doors from splitting near the window/wing window. If not a connector you could just cap it. I pushed the rear passenger foot well up to clear the sub frame connector, kids are about the only ones to sit in the back seat, OK these days, not enough impact protection! 1 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted February 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2016 One solution is to install frame connectors... It would cap the leg and provide extra strength, may even keep your doors from splitting near the window/wing window. If not a connector you could just cap it. I pushed the rear passenger foot well up to clear the sub frame connector, kids are about the only ones to sit in the back seat, OK these days, not enough impact protection! That looks like the way to go. Got anymore detail shots of the connector? Quote Link to comment
Morrisun Posted February 18, 2016 Report Share Posted February 18, 2016 I started out with 1X2, .120wall rectangular tubing, about 50inches long for each of them. Using a cut-off wheel cut the front portion out so that it would fit over the front leg. drilled 5/16 holes in the sides, staggered 1.5 off center from inside to the outside of the channel. The cut out portion needs to be opened up some, I used a piece of 2X3 tubing and vise to force the channel open enough to go over the leg. It doesn't take much! The plates are 4X3, .125 thick with same 5/16 holes for pug welding. See next photo. 2 Quote Link to comment
Morrisun Posted February 18, 2016 Report Share Posted February 18, 2016 The rear of the connector, with end cap welded in place. The front welded-up. This gives you an idea as to what I did to stiffen the chassis, and it easier to use the rear connection for a jacking point as the rear sway bar hangs down, the differential is no longer available for that kinda thing. 3 Quote Link to comment
Dguy210 Posted February 18, 2016 Report Share Posted February 18, 2016 The front welded-up. This gives you an idea as to what I did to stiffen the chassis, and it easier to use the rear connection for a jacking point as the rear sway bar hangs down, the differential is no longer available for that kinda thing. Neat! Never thought about doing that before. I think I'm going to do that to mine. Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted February 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2016 I finally got some free time and decent weather to merge together. This is the nastiness underneath the seam sealer at the right inner fender/radiator support connection. 1 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted March 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 The rear of the connector, with end cap welded in place. The front welded-up. This gives you an idea as to what I did to stiffen the chassis, and it easier to use the rear connection for a jacking point as the rear sway bar hangs down, the differential is no longer available for that kinda thing. Looks like a trip to the Steel Store is in the plans soon. 1 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted March 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 Got a few free minutes and removed the right front fender. The lower rocker panel bolt broke off....again. Quote Link to comment
Duncan Posted March 7, 2016 Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 I think they all break off. I think I mentioned it before, but when I can't get the bolt out, I drill right into the frozen bolt and tap it with a smaller sized bolt. It just holds the fender up to the car, and the original isn't going to go anywhere :) I've never had very good luck with easy outs. Got a few free minutes and removed the right front fender. The lower rocker panel bolt broke off....again. Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted March 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 I think they all break off. I think I mentioned it before, but when I can't get the bolt out, I drill right into the frozen bolt and tap it with a smaller sized bolt. It just holds the fender up to the car, and the original isn't going to go anywhere :) I've never had very good luck with easy outs. Thank's for the tip! :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted May 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2016 Hey kids, I'm back now. Lots of life interference since my last post. My Mom had serious issues with the nursing home in Childress TX. It was a small town, for profit facility that could not give Mom the level of care that she required. I brought her to the Good Samaritan Lake Forest Village facility here in Denton TX. It is an award winning, 501©(3) facility that is administered by the Lutheran Church and my family is very blessed to be a part of the community. My computer blew up shortly after my last post, and I am finally able to rejoin the game. Prepping for the frame rail modifications. The bottom of the floor pan is cleaning up very nicely. 2 Quote Link to comment
Coda Posted May 2, 2016 Report Share Posted May 2, 2016 The bottom of the floor pan is cleaning up very nicely. Pictures don't do that thing justice...That is one clean 1200! (yes I have floor-pan envy) 3 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted May 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2016 The left side of the bottom of the floor pan, from the rear clip forward. Very clean, except for the left front seat bracket rust out. Finally got the rest of the radiator support treated with POR 15. 2 Quote Link to comment
Duncan Posted May 3, 2016 Report Share Posted May 3, 2016 Sorry to hear that about your Mom, but glad you found her a better place for the care she needs. I dealt with the same thing with my Mom a few years back, and I know how stressful it can be. Your car is looking good! I am amazed how resourceful you are considering the conditions of where you have to work on it :thumbup: I told myself when I sold the Sunny, I'd not get another 1200, but I miss having one. You Texas Coupe guys might make me change my mind... Hey kids, I'm back now. Lots of life interference since my last post. My Mom had serious issues with the nursing home in Childress TX. It was a small town, for profit facility that could not give Mom the level of care that she required. I brought her to the Good Samaritan Lake Forest Village facility here in Denton TX. It is an award winning, 501©(3) facility that is administered by the Lutheran Church and my family is very blessed to be a part of the community. My computer blew up shortly after my last post, and I am finally able to rejoin the game. Prepping for the frame rail modifications. The bottom of the floor pan is cleaning up very nicely. 2 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted May 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2016 Decided to go ahead with the frame rail extensions. Just need to re shape the rear floor pans so the extension will fit. Tried using a floor jack to press the pan up providing the clearance. FAIL!!! The floor pan would pop back down to it's original position when I released the jack. The stamped ribs in the floor pan are very effective in keeping this thin metal sheet from distorting. Tried using the floor jack to raise the floor pan and then beat the crap out of the pan with a ball peen hammer. EPIC FAIL!!! I would beat the hell out of the floor pan in one place then move to the next. Every time I moved, the reshaped floor pan would pop back into it's original position despite flattening out the stamped in ribs. DAMMIT!! Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted May 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2016 It is obvious that I need something to support the floor pan while I beat it into submission. I cut a 4x4 to the proper length, aligned it with the front frame rail, used both floor jacks to support it, and raised the floor pan to clear the frame rail extension. IT'S HAMMER TIME!! I It worked. I have the clearance on the drivers side for the frame rail extension. It is more or less straight, but will work . Now I know what to do on the other side of the Sedan, and both sides of the Coupe. Checked the clearance with a straight edge. It is good. 3 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted May 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2016 The drivers side interior view of the re shaped floor pan. The pan split around the hole where the rubber grommet goes. Minor damage that can be repaired with the POR 15 patch kit. Otherwise, I found out some things about POR 15. Yes, you can hammer on it without damage. No, you cannot beat it to hell on a rusted surface without it peeling off. The frame rail extension will fit in the new floor panel channel no problem. 2 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted May 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2016 Got the top and side of the right side frame rail prepped for POR 15. Right side engine bay frame rail coated with POR 15. Just have to hit it with the POR 15 Topcoat and I can replace the wiring harness and fire up the engine. 3 Quote Link to comment
Datsubishi Posted May 20, 2016 Report Share Posted May 20, 2016 I don't know what your floor pans looked like, or mine for that matter because I'm out of town at school, but what about just jacking the frame rails extensions into position and welding them in? Would the floorpans pop into the vehicle into a concave? Could the extensions just be clearanced easier than the floor pan? Just wondering? I want to do extensions in my 510 too. Great in depth write ups too. I've used the POR 15 gas tank sealer kit. It worked great. 1 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted May 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2016 I don't know what your floor pans looked like, or mine for that matter because I'm out of town at school, but what about just jacking the frame rails extensions into position and welding them in? Would the floorpans pop into the vehicle into a concave? Could the extensions just be clearanced easier than the floor pan? Just wondering? I want to do extensions in my 510 too. Great in depth write ups too. I've used the POR 15 gas tank sealer kit. It worked great. I thought about just jacking the frame rails into position, but I am not going to be the one doing the welding. There isn't much clearance under the car and the frame rails need to be straight. I didn't want to worry about the rails putting up a fight while trying to align them. This way there should be no alignment issues. Besides, beating the hell out of a large sheet of metal with a large hammer is very therapeutic after a stressful week. 3 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted May 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2016 Finally stripped the bottom of the passenger side floor pan. A few minor rust through's repaired with POR15 patch from the top side. A very clean floor pan. 1 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted May 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2016 Striping the bottom of the floor pan is very tedious. The exhaust system is really in the way, so off it comes. Unfortunately one of the exhaust manifold studs was compromised and broke off with very little pressure. 1 Quote Link to comment
njoz1200ute Posted May 29, 2016 Report Share Posted May 29, 2016 Good work the pans look good. Mine on the other hand look like they sailed the Atlantic and sunk at sea. With the por15......do you apply it on bare metal? Does go on as a spray? Roller? Brush? Quote Link to comment
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