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1200 autocross project Texas


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Took off the brake pads and the hub now spins freely. Had to adjust the anti rattle clips and now the hub/disc assembly spins with no noise. I re installed the wheel on the 280ZX strut and It won't quite line up correctly. I only used 3 lug nuts. The nuts directly across from each other lined up OK. The one 90 deg. off didn't want to cooperate. The wheel has slightly elongated mounting hole and there seems to be a difference between the 1200 and 280ZX stud spacing. I didn't notice this the first time because I only used 2 lug nuts. There is slight rubbing between the wheel and the brake assembly. I worked it around for a time and removed the wheel. This is what I found.

 

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A very small contact point but it still rubs on the brake pad assembly. A light use of the grinder should solve the problem.

 

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Just on the point of the corner. I think I can get away without using a spacer and maybe use 205 tires.

 

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Loosened the top caps on the 280ZX and 1200 struts. Removed the insert from the ZX strut and will try to re build the 1200 strut later. Had the right tool for the job on hand. The length and weight let me do the job without heat.

 

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Finally, a few things are coming together. I now have a Datsun factory competition SCCA class C rear suspension for both my 2dr. Sedan and Coupe. The Coupe suspension has a modified lower spring mount including a traction bar mount. Modified, lowered leaf springs, and a beautiful rust free stock rear diff. with 3.90 gears that spins effortlessly. The Sedan suspension has the same modified lowered leaf springs and an adjustable rear sway bar. The differential is a rusty, nasty looking unit that has been sitting outside for who knows how long. It won't turn  Hopefully it is jammed brakes causing the problem because the differential has a NISMO Racing factory limited slip unit with 4.11 gears. If it is toast, it is irreplaceable. There are probably more original copies of the U.S. Constitution than this differential in America. Sedan diff. front, Coupe diff. back.

 

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If you're planning on doing this, might want to not take them apart. Keeping them sealed will keep the internal bits from rusting up on you.

Same day turn around. I have a factory service manual and Bel-Ray fork oil. Mat has the Mother of all o-ring kits. Just got the nut loose.

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Same day turn around. I have a factory service manual and Bel-Ray fork oil. Mat has the Mother of all o-ring kits. Just got the nut loose.

 

I knew you had it covered.   B)

 

 

The differential is a rusty, nasty looking unit that has been sitting outside for who knows how long. It won't turn  Hopefully it is jammed brakes 

 

My money is on rusted brakes. 

 

And I can tell you it's been off the car sitting on the ground since at least 2004. And the car may have sat for 20+ years before that.    :rofl:

 

The other one that you got from us was completely rebuilt top to bottom in '97 and has never been driven on even once, and always stored indoors. 

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The other one that you got from us was completely rebuilt top to bottom in '97 and has never been driven on even once, and always stored indoors. 

It looks like I just picked it up from the Nissan dealer. And the LSD pumpkin might just go in your diff.

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Big time problem! The wheel I was using to test the clearance of my 13 in. wheels on the 280ZX strut and brakes had some fitting issues. Working with the entire strut was being problematic so I used just the hub from the other completely dis-assembled 280ZX strut. I attached it to the wheel with 4 lug nuts and It seated flat against the wheel with a little assistance. However, this is what I have after the assembly. 

 

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The spindle is obliviously not going to be in the exact center of the wheel. I have no idea what the problem is. Going to pull the 1200 hub off the car and see if there is any difference between it and the ZX hub. The wheels rolled true when the car was parked 15 years ago. Even the rear view of the hub looks slightly off.

 

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Will 16's fit under the stock fenders?

 

No.   :bye:

 

 

Can't get a small enough diameter tire in my opinion. If it's not lowered AT ALL, it will at least steer. But will probably clip the fenders when you do. 

 

15x7s go good on a 195/45-15. 

 

 

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I've seen a few pull off 16s, but they all had flares...

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So if you reeeeally want 16s, it is...

 

1. Flares

2. Modify front edge of the fenders, and add a little more caster

3. Monster truck ride height

Haven't ruled out flares yet for the Sedan. The Coupe will definitely have flares and possibly rear wheel mini tubs. I need the Coupe to hook, not smoke. 

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Finished stripping the area under the rear seat. No new rust found. All the seam sealer is gone and the metal is very clean. 

 

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The rear floor pans are ready to be patched. Just need to strip the drivers floor and the whole firewall. 

 

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Haven't ruled out flares yet for the Sedan. The Coupe will definitely have flares and possibly rear wheel mini tubs. I need the Coupe to hook, not smoke. 

 

Mini tubs are not needed on the 15X9-e0 I have on the rear stock axle. 16's might if lowered too far, but flares are very needed for 15's even. Pictures will come soon of front end mods to accommodate my 15X7-e0's  205/50-15.

 

 

Wish my floors looked like yours :(

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Looking at the adjustable lower control arms, along with the adjustable camber plates to possibly make a 205 fit in the stock front fender well. Have a torch and a big hammer if any adjustments need to be made to the inner fender.

 

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The same wheel that would not line up on the 280ZX hub, fits perfectly on the 1200 hub with no lug nut binding.

 

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This wheel came off lived on the left rear and when on the left front, there was a very minor rub on the caliper. Here is the proof. 

 

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