Jump to content

Clutch feels sloppy


drewey1963

Recommended Posts

Datsun 210 5 speed with 1.4...  quick history: found this car a year ago, retired man had not driven for 10 years.  Went through the fuel system including gas tank.  Running great now (new carburetor).  

 

Clutch does not feel right.  Had Datsun like this years ago and I remember having a lot better control and feel of clutch pedal.  Don't know how to describe other that I don't feel... clutch is either engaged or not... not sporty feel.

 

Doe anyone know where I'm coming from? 

Link to comment
  • Replies 17
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

It's hydraulically operated so check the master cylinder to the left of the brake master cylinder. Is it full? Is the fluid black? Probably wouldn't hurt to drain it and replace with new anyway. The other end (slave) is on the bell housing of the tranny and has a bleeder. Open and let drain out. Fill the master and depress clutch, close bleeder, fift clutch, open bleeder, depress clutch... repeat untill all air is removed and only clear brake fluid comes out. Close bleeder and see if it's improved.

Link to comment

Try Datzenmike's run through first. On a 210 you should be able to position yourself to hit the clutch pedal and see the slave move if it is on the driver's side (most transmissions). Otherwise get a helper to hit it while you take a look. In my experience, it has been way more common that when the clutch starts feeling weird on these it is the slave crapping out. That doesn't mean that is your problem here, just that this has been the most common problem I've encountered. Results may vary.

Link to comment

brake fluid, which is what is used in the hydraulic clutch system, is hygroscopic meaning it attracts and retains water. when you step on the clutch, the possible water in the system compresses rather than moves (like hyd fluid.)

 

with all that being said, new brake fluid is clear, and becomes darker the more contaminated it is.

 

so again the first step is to bleed the system until all the old fluid has been replaced with new fluid. if that doesnt fix it then u can move to the next step in the trouble shooting process

Link to comment

correction, water isnt compressible, sorry. 

i was corrected earlier on another forum about that today.

and dammit i hate being wrong especially if im tryin to help someone out. 

 

my answer was more in regards to a braking system. 

water in a brake system lowers the boiling point, which reduces braking capability.

that water can boil, turning into water vapor, which is compressible. 

 

guess you wouldnt really have that problem with heat on the clutch system...

 

but water in the system could perhaps cause the internal parts to oxidize/rust, and 

wear them and the lines down from the inside out.

Link to comment

I had a very similar problem on my 210 and the problem is that I had too much play in the rod at the slave.

There needs to be about 1/8" of free play in the adjustable rod, if there is too much freedom there you get the problem that you are having, if you have too little freedom then you will burn out your throwout bearing.

BillM

Link to comment

Thanks to everyone... ran through Datzenmike's suggestions, so I know I have clean line and no air.  Still, no change.  Will now look at BillM's suggestion (rod at slave cylinder) as to whether there is too much play there...

Link to comment

If adjusting the rod does not work, it maybe the input shaft is gummed up or has some rust on it and the clutch disc is hanging up on the input shaft a little. common on cars that have not been driven for long time. Sometimes just driving will make it work better.

Link to comment

Worked with the adjustments on the clutch pedal and that did it!  The problem was that the clutch was catching at the very top of the pedal.  That is, I barely pressed on the pedal the clutch was disengaged.  By adjusting  the rubber stop (at the top of the pedal) and the plunger (that comes through the firewall) from the master cylinder, I was able to change the the feel of the clutch completely.  

Link to comment
  • 2 years later...

Hey guys, I just put in a new master cylinder,slave cylinder & clutch hose. The old stuff was just plain nasty filthy, although it was still working fine. Gotta love Datsuns! Anyway, with the new ones on the clutch just doesn't feel right & there seems to be a lot less travel and acceleration while disengaging the clutch. I'm trying to figure where the best place to adjust it is to fix the problem. Mine has an adjustment at the master & slave cylinders, of course along with the rubber stopper. I didn't adjust the pushrod on the master cylinder, I just cleaned it and switched it over & then I set the adjustments on the master the same as the old one. The main problem I'm having is the pedal goes to the floor. How can I bleed the system if the pedal is already on the floor?

Link to comment

If old was working I would have kept it in there. Esp if was still the Japan made unit.

 

Blled the clutch.

I do mine myself by getting a clear plastic tube and clea bottle. loosen the slave and pump the master till the fluid is clear and no bubbles then tighten the bleed screw.

Best to have soembody fill the master. re you refell ever 4 puch of the pedal the recheack . then when done tighten bleed screw

  • Like 1
Link to comment

Well, the old master & slave had been leaking for a while, so I had to switch it out. Of course I already bled the system. I'm saying that when I press the clutch it goes to the floor. I think it has too much free play. I guess I'll just mess with the adjustments until it feels right.

Link to comment

It sounds like it needs to be bled again. On my '74 it takes 15 min max including the time to jack it up and put a jack stand under the drivers side. Two person job though. Clutch master is separated from the brake master. Did you bench bleed the master before installing it?

  • Like 1
Link to comment

Yeah bench and bleed again.

 

There should only be a minimum of clutch arm adjustment looseness... about 2mm. The pedal should move easily by pressing down with your thumb about a 1/4" before it becomes firm.

  • Like 2
Link to comment

It sounds like it needs to be bled again. On my '74 it takes 15 min max including the time to jack it up and put a jack stand under the drivers side. Two person job though. Clutch master is separated from the brake master. Did you bench bleed the master before installing it?

Yes, I did bench bleed it, but I think you're right I'm going to bleed it again today.  Should I be able to push the clutch arm that the slave attaches to with my hand?  Because it doesn't budge when I try to do it by hand.

Link to comment

Yeah bench and bleed again.

 

There should only be a minimum of clutch arm adjustment looseness... about 2mm. The pedal should move easily by pressing down with your thumb about a 1/4" before it becomes firm.

Cool! Thanks datzenmike! I'll figure it out today.

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.