Rollover_Red Posted May 22, 2013 Report Share Posted May 22, 2013 possibly a stupid question and it may have been asked before, but when doing the r180 swap into a 510, are there any modifications needed to the mustache bar/axels/diff? sorry if this has been asked before. Quote Link to comment
TheShagginWagon Posted May 22, 2013 Report Share Posted May 22, 2013 My pop has one in his 510, he says there is not problem with the mustache bar or anything except, The one big problem is the spline count is different than the R160/Stock diff. Quote Link to comment
TheShagginWagon Posted May 22, 2013 Report Share Posted May 22, 2013 I'm pretty sure you have to get new stub axles machined to accommodate the different splines R160: spline 25 R180: spline 27 Hope this helps Quote Link to comment
Rollover_Red Posted May 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2013 What if I just run r180(240z) diff, mustache bar, and axels? Quote Link to comment
TheShagginWagon Posted May 22, 2013 Report Share Posted May 22, 2013 not sure, to google I go. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 22, 2013 Report Share Posted May 22, 2013 the 240z has the 4 bolt flanges and should be a direct fit. the Later R180s from the IRS 200sx ectg use a clip type stub axle and one has to use the 510 spider gear cap with the threaded plate to use the 51o half shafts. and the dust should needs to be cut. ck the R180 as most are the crappy gear ratios. So I dont know why you want one unless you got the right gear ratio Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted May 22, 2013 Report Share Posted May 22, 2013 Find a early R180 720 4x4 front diff with 4.38s....not sure what gears you are looking for though Direct bolt in .....just swap the 720 dust shields onto the R160 stubs The later (83+) 720 4x4 diff has the 4.11s....but has a larger bolt pattern on the companion flange 4.11 R180 with R160 stubs/720 dust shields 1 Quote Link to comment
Rollover_Red Posted May 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2013 well i was just going to get the 240/260 diff because thats whats available to me at the moment. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 22, 2013 Report Share Posted May 22, 2013 you could get a EARLY SUBI OPEN DIFF r160 THOSE SHOULD BE CHEAP AND HAVE A 3.7 GEAR RATIO OLDDATSUNS.COM HAS THE KURT HAFNER ARTICLE I BELIEVE Quote Link to comment
Rollover_Red Posted May 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2013 you could get a EARLY SUBI OPEN DIFF r160 THOSE SHOULD BE CHEAP AND HAVE A 3.7 GEAR RATIO OLDDATSUNS.COM HAS THE KURT HAFNER ARTICLE I BELIEVE well i want to go r180 because its will be alot stronger than my r160. im doing a pretty badass LZ22 and i dont want my stock diff(that is already starting to give me signs of failure) to go out on me. i would just like to throw in a damn near same gear ratio in the 510. i dont want a super short final drive, i want top end(dont ask why) Quote Link to comment
Rollover_Red Posted May 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2013 maybe if i can find a 720 4.11 i might throw it in if i get the 5 speed i want. but if not, im going with the 240/260 diff. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 22, 2013 Report Share Posted May 22, 2013 the 200sx turbo 4 cyl or auto I believe had a 3.90 R180. Its a C clip type and use the thresded plate off the old 510 diff off the spider gears , to use the 510 half shfts. I persoanlly like the 3.7 gear lsd I have in my 510, gets good gas milage on freeway(perfect freeway diff) Quote Link to comment
Rollover_Red Posted May 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2013 the 200sx turbo 4 cyl or auto I believe had a 3.90 R180. Its a C clip type and use the thresded plate off the old 510 diff off the spider gears , to use the 510 half shfts. I persoanlly like the 3.7 gear lsd I have in my 510, gets good gas milage on freeway(perfect freeway diff) i wouldnt mind that one, IF I COULD FIND IT! haha and i dont mind my 3.7 either, but like i said before, its starting to give me problems. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 22, 2013 Report Share Posted May 22, 2013 stock 510s are 3.9 or should be. its just another option on the subu diffs. if your doing a LZ its have more torq than my l16. slound be erer to turn than mine one you go with the longer stroke motor they just as not a high rever as say the other motors. heres a certain point where they just dont work right when it come to airflow.Throwing those rods around. but Im not a LZ expert so wont add anymore on that. Quote Link to comment
Rollover_Red Posted May 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2013 stock 510s are 3.9 or should be. its just another option on the subu diffs. if your doing a LZ its have more torq than my l16. slound be erer to turn than mine one you go with the longer stroke motor they just as not a high rever as say the other motors. heres a certain point where they just dont work right when it come to airflow.Throwing those rods around. but Im not a LZ expert so wont add anymore on that. i meant 3.9 >.< haha and i understand the difference between a longer stroke motor VS a shorter stroke, but i am also doing a KA 5speed(with L series bell housing) and im already going to be happy with my gearing, but i wouldnt mind having a nice upgraded diff either. thats what im getting at. im not even worried about gear ratios at this moment, im worried about what problems i am going to be running into. Quote Link to comment
510T Posted May 22, 2013 Report Share Posted May 22, 2013 The s12 200sx r180 diffs are usually available at picknpull when I go. Clip in stubs but I did a little how-to on changing them out to bolt in stubs. Dust shields need to go from the r160 stubs like Sealik mentioned. Or just use early Z halfshafts. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/42794-how-to-convert-a-clip-in-r180-to-bolt-in-for-a-510/ 2 Quote Link to comment
Rollover_Red Posted May 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2013 The s12 200sx r180 diffs are usually available at picknpull when I go. Clip in stubs but I did a little how-to on changing them out to bolt in stubs. Dust shields need to go from the r160 stubs like Sealik mentioned. Or just use early Z halfshafts. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/42794-how-to-convert-a-clip-in-r180-to-bolt-in-for-a-510/ love it! thank you! Quote Link to comment
StinkyTurbo Posted May 22, 2013 Report Share Posted May 22, 2013 sorry for thread jacking, but now I have a question and it pertains to a S30 Z diff and another diff that I am being offered. A 1971 240Z R180 diff is a bolt in/plug in job? And a 2001 Subaru Forester R160 LSD 4.11 diff isn't? Note: I live in the Northeast. So I'm never going to find a pre-90's Subaru or Nissan/Datsun at a junkyard. These are my options at the moment. Quote Link to comment
510T Posted May 23, 2013 Report Share Posted May 23, 2013 A 1971 240Z R180 diff is a bolt in/plug in job? Yes, the ratios will not work well though unless you have 6 cyl or forced induction or are an extreme hyper-miler. Stub axle dust shield issue also applies. And a 2001 Subaru Forester R160 LSD 4.11 diff isn't? If the spline counts are the same and each stub is of equal length maybe it will? I have heard some Subi LSD's use asymmetric stubs. Quote Link to comment
StinkyTurbo Posted May 24, 2013 Report Share Posted May 24, 2013 A 1971 240Z R180 diff is a bolt in/plug in job? Yes, the ratios will not work well though unless you have 6 cyl or forced induction or are an extreme hyper-miler. Stub axle dust shield issue also applies. And a 2001 Subaru Forester R160 LSD 4.11 diff isn't? If the spline counts are the same and each stub is of equal length maybe it will? I have heard some Subi LSD's use asymmetric stubs. Good. I fall into one of those catagories for the 240z diff, but I'm as confused as you're about Subaru diff's. Quote Link to comment
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