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1984 Datsun Maxima 910 Project.


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Where were you rubbing in the rear... I am hoping you were just rubbing up in the fender arches from the suspension being compressed....

 

This exact thing, yes.   ^_^

 

Heavy load so car sits low, then the springs are too soft, and...

 

Like the other wheels on the wagon too, are those off a Mitsubishi?  Can't tell. 

 

"Flat body" Starion. 

 

http://all-carz.com/data_images/mitsubishi-starion-turbo/mitsubishi-starion-turbo-08.jpg

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also I am not familiar enough with the differences in the wagon and sedan to know if they require the same wheel/tire specs

 

Sedan has IRS and the wagon is solid axle, so you can get away with a little more offset in the rear of a sedan without rubbing. 

 

I am looking for some advice on what I should do to have the pest performing suspensino and get 1.5 inches lower. I have alot of ideas but no clear direction and there is so much information to wade through about the different options I am just not sure which way to go right now. 

 

I am looking into inserts, tube shortening, and adjustable spring kits, but I just dont know yet. All advice is appreciated and will be put to good use.

 

Your stock struts should be short enough already. To go lower, you need to go firmer on these cars. So converting them to threaded collar coilovers makes the most sense, that way you can try out different spring rates until you find one you like. 

 

That and a quality pair of inserts up front and you should be fine. Rear should be the same basic formula. 

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So in front I am going to be running

 

Project Mu height adjustable camber plates

T3 Weld on kit

MR2 SW20 Front KYB AGX

roll center spacers

 

What spring rate should I be looking for in the front?

 

Obviously I am used to tuning newer chassis that require extremely high spring rates due to less motion ratio, so I am a little new to putting these lighter springs in these cars. From my research, I need to use about a 250-275lb spring in front, not sure about back yet, but my front weighs in around something like 1500-1600 lbs

 

Anyone have any suggestions?

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Anyone have any suggestions?

 

Don't expect to nail it on the first try.   ^_^

 

From my research, I need to use about a 250-275lb spring in front, not sure about back yet, but my front weighs in around something like 1500-1600 lbs

 

With that much engine (and car) weight, 250 is a very good place to start. I definitely wouldn't go any harder at first. Fortunately they aren't super expensive, so you can always go softer or firmer after you try the 250. 

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Don't expect to nail it on the first try.   ^_^

 

 

With that much engine (and car) weight, 250 is a very good place to start. I definitely wouldn't go any harder at first. Fortunately they aren't super expensive, so you can always go softer or firmer after you try the 250. 

Haha, I figured as much.

 

I will have to check the weight, but that is what I am estimating. I will be ordering the T3 kit as soon as they open after new years. The rears will come next.

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Ok, so I talked to T3 today, and they are telling me that I should run a 300lb front spring if using an MR2 insert, and a 350lb if its an AGX insert.

 

Does this sound too high? That is drastically different from what I was thinking, but I assume that they know their stuff right???

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Ok, so I talked to T3 today, and they are telling me that I should run a 300lb front spring if using an MR2 insert, and a 350lb if its an AGX insert.

 

Does this sound too high? 

 

It does to me, but if you trust their opinion, by all means give it a try. Worst case scenario is you wasted $60-80. Not the end of the world. 

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He is telling me basically that the AGX needs to have a heavy spring or it will feel bouncy. They said if I dont run a heavy sway bar then the heavy spring rates will feel like I am running lighter spring rates with a heavy sway bar.

 

Idk what to think. They charge alot for Eibach springs, an extra set is like $130 from T3, but I have other sources probably cheaper.

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Day Motorsports  and Coleman Racing.

 

They have most everything you need for coilover springs on budget.  If it's good enough for an 800 hp circle track car, it's good enough for a not 800 hp Maxima.  I ran the SSS springs in my 510.  Not to be confused with SSS Datsun.

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So in front I am going to be running

 

Project Mu height adjustable camber plates

T3 Weld on kit

MR2 SW20 Front KYB AGX

roll center spacers

 

What spring rate should I be looking for in the front?

 

Obviously I am used to tuning newer chassis that require extremely high spring rates due to less motion ratio, so I am a little new to putting these lighter springs in these cars. From my research, I need to use about a 250-275lb spring in front, not sure about back yet, but my front weighs in around something like 1500-1600 lbs

 

Anyone have any suggestions?

 

 

With that much engine (and car) weight, 250 is a very good place to start. I definitely wouldn't go any harder at first. Fortunately they aren't super expensive, so you can always go softer or firmer after you try the 250.

 

 

175-200 is a very good baseline for most 4cyl Datsuns, and a lot of S30 guys start at 225, so you're definitely headed in the right direction.   :thumbup:

 

 

Ok, so I talked to T3 today, and they are telling me that I should run a 300lb front spring if using an MR2 insert, and a 350lb if its an AGX insert.

 

Does this sound too high? That is drastically different from what I was thinking, but I assume that they know their stuff right???

The stock 810 front coil is about 127 lb/in. My Maxima coils were almost 150 lb/in. Keep in mind this is a more luxury ride car than a performance car so this is a bit soft for the car weight and the suspension probably compresses pretty good to absorb the bumps. I would imagine 200lb/in wouldn't be out of bounds (on the low side that is) for the weight of the car... 350 sounds a bit much. It's your car and no one can say for sure 350 is what you want... you will have to experiment to get where you feel right.

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Thanks Mike, That is pretty much what I am figuring. T3 said that the AGX shocks need a stiff spring, but if it is too hard I may have to change some things. I was a bit apprehensive about 350 as well so we will see how it goes. Luckily springs are fairly inexpensive so I can play with rates a bit. But if I vary too much either way then I will need to change dampers as well.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...

I made the 300zx bushings the right diameter on a Harbor Freight 7x10 lathe lol. They are ready to install in the rear end.

 

A87C9EE5-06CC-4D5C-9BDD-9F271339B3E4_zps

 

48ADC69A-9452-4547-83C3-0F10C8ED9B5E_zps

 

I was not really happy with how the rear mount was to be modified to accept the R200. So what I did instead was make a brand new mount. Not knowing that the 200sx also uses the same style mount for its R200 and that mount has the right offset to fit an R200 in the 910 chassis. So I ended up accidentally making a billet 200SX R200 Differential mount. It uses a Hasport bushing and pin, very cheap, easy to get.

 

7A0AB6FE-46C0-4F8A-BADE-8B40A6C528F6_zps

 

A823B612-60A3-4766-9271-78C343DEA517_zps

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I made the 300zx bushings the right diameter on a Harbor Freight 7x10 lathe lol. They are ready to install in the rear end.

 

 

Did they cut well? I am facing the same conundrum. I got the 300ZX bushings because I was assured they fit the 280ZX crossmember. They do not.   ^_^

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