Thermostat Flowage

[Cal]

My old housing had the flow by port blocked. I just got the new one and it has it on it but cant find where it would go on the motor. No blocked ports by the water inlet. Just the metal inlet at the bottom front of the passenger side with the heating draw hose coming off that. Im told it can cause the problems. The last owners said overheating was never a problem until recently. So I have a new higher flow thermostat and a three bolt housing. Now the question is could I just cut off the air bleeder and let just a small amount of water by. The hole for the air bleed is tiny but I would think big enough to let flow through not enough to inhibit the cooling of the radiator. Ideas? How else could I pipe the bypass hose into the motor with out buying more parts?

[Eagle_Adam]

should go from the lower thrmo housing to a metal line that goes to the upper thermo housing, then to the intake mani - what cylinder head do you have? 

[Cal]

u67

[Eagle_Adam]

was the coolant port on your intake mani plugged before? 

[Cal]

yea its been plugged since the motor was built Im told. Ran full blast 11 to 1 compression and never over heated until recently. I then took new thermostat and old one in pan heated up and old one was opening at the same time just in a jerky manner. Plus the new one is supposed to be 60% better flow. So you should think it would be okay but I understand how that this thermostat is off to the side with little flow until opened up so maybe in full race mode once opened it just stayed opened and never needed it? I think removing the air bleeder thing and just leaving that super small open hole would let just enough through to open properly with out having that flow by hose.

[banzai510(hainz)]

You can drill it out to say 1/8 as a bypass.

 

Most L motor if they go to sidedrsfts they will not use the heater line extra outlet. this was to heat the stock intake manifold on the 510s/521s ext then they went to heads that head a over style heated manifold mated to the intake . So there wont be water passages on the head. Usually soem U67 heads(I think).

 

really the stat is closed most of the time as it needs to let the water in the rad cool off first before letting more water out. If it lets too much out the rad water will not cool and thus make the reeverse affect.   I run a 160deg stat and it works good on cooler days with the samll hole drilled as a bypass. but over 85degs it pretty much doesnt work anymore.

 

 

Champion makes 3 core alum if you need a new rad. 219$ I think.