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280zx turbo / Datsun 910 maxima CV axle


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soo, nobody has these after much searching nobody has these, my options are I either replace the inner boot, or I take it to an axle shop and have them rebuild it, which will be $100 and i dont know what that includes.

 

seeing as how there is very little play in the axle, i would like to just put a new boot on it.

 

my two opwions for that seem to be

 

1: cutting the entire inner clamp off which holds the cv joint in and getting the PITA beck arnley kit and replacing it oem style

 

2: removing/disassembling the outer cv joint and cutting the inner boot off the clamp leaving the clamp in place, then putting the standard style boot on the factory joint clamp with the rubber removed from the outer side, then put a new boot on the outer.

 

anyone follow what im getting at?

 

thoughts?

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$100 is a good price. You will get a reconditioned part, new boots. The only thing that might cost more is if it is not considered "rebuildable". Meaning there might be wear on a couple of parts and they would need replaced, like the cup or race. Those parts they should be able to find in their parts stash.

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well im going tonight to look at some 280zx turbo axles, he wants $100 for both which is reasonable if their in good condition. but i am seriously considering the z31 thing, i need to figure out if the calipers would need to be modded to fit the most basic z31 4 lug hubs and such, that would leave me the option to go up to 5 lug if i want to later by using the later 5 lug z31 hubs.

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I decided to go for the beck arnley replacement boots, it was $16 on ebay, I cut the old one off  already, since I have had such a hard time finding pictures of how to do this correctly, I am going to post pics tomorrow, I already cleaned everything, but you can see where you are supposed to cut the boot/cover/colar thing off without damaging anything.

 

Note on the axles:

     the maxima /910 axles are about 3/8 of an inch longer than 280zx axles, the 280 zx axles may still work, but i didnt want to risk it, otherwise the axles are identical.

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here you can see the metal part of the boot (tulip cover) cut apart in the correct area.

80F99C7F-D6DB-44BE-B231-848FF666ABB0-261

37607171-7928-4366-A230-80B40AA758DF-261

 

here is the boot off the cv joint you can see the line on the cv where I cut the boot, this is inevitable, unless you have a giant pipe cutter, which would make this a piece of cake, but hard to come by.

the point is, if you look toward the differential side of that lip you see a machined groove, that groove can not be messed with if you want your cv joint to seal when you reassemble it, so when you cut the boot off, cut far away from that o ring, i would have cut farther away had i known exactly where it was, but as long as you dont damage it your good. the boot comes with the o ring.

6B3ACAD8-6DF7-4F5D-A8F2-2AE6EADD1FC5-261

4D62B80E-FC01-4E34-A51A-3FEEE73769DA-261

 

here is the disassembled joint, make sure yo mark all of this so it goes back together the exact same way, not sure if it makes a difference, but I have never been one to risk it either. no it did not come apart that dry, I know someone is thinking that, I cleaned it last night to inspect it.

2261DF9A-9985-4AD7-9897-D613209C99D1-261

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  • 2 weeks later...

I got the boots in a week or 2 ago, but havent had access to a vise so that I could crimp down the edge.

last night I got the chance so that I could finally show the last steps.

 

this is the same for 200sx axles too.

 

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3DE372F3-31F0-4D73-ACC3-D4961B2CD990-233

 

no i didnt forget the inner CV clamps, I always put them on in the car if one of the boots isnt an exact length fit. which is the case here as you can see.

5CA34E09-201B-43CB-ABB2-AE6180732643-233

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