banzai510(hainz) Posted May 15, 2013 Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 PB Blaster and the flair nut wrench Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted May 15, 2013 Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 PB Blaster and the flair nut wrench Flare nut wrench, that's the one. Quote Link to comment
Dawa Posted May 16, 2013 Report Share Posted May 16, 2013 i stripped one of my brake flare nuts last week, using a 10mm flare wrench. possibly because it was a HF wrench, OR because they are just on there like a sum bitch. either way im upgrading to a set of craftsman flare wrenches. also, i reverted to vise grips. you can buy NEW, preassembled lines at oreilly or similar but def oreilly. they already come double flared and with a flare nut at each end. and theyre like 5 bucks each give or take a few. already got the measurements for you too Driver side hardline length approximately 52" passenger side approx 36" closest i could find for those 2 were a 51" line and a 40" line (i had to replace both front lines.) check this out if youd like http://community.ratsun.net/topic/55162-incomplete-how-to-620-drum-to-disc-brakes-z32-calipers-beebani-brackets/ Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted May 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2013 Wow great input guys. Thanks. I'm going to go and pick me up a flare wrench today and see if that does the trick. After looking at a lot of the nuts it looks like some will need to be replaced. Took a look at oreilly's and they have a great selection at amazing prices. (Thanks Dawa). BTW what size line do I need? Quote Link to comment
heretic Posted May 16, 2013 Report Share Posted May 16, 2013 GREAT job Jeff, your doing a fantastic job on this I'm deff subscribed. DEFINITELY get flare nut wrenches. Don't go cheap on them. You'll most likely have better luck/prices/choice on metric hardware at an Ace Hardware Supply. They even have hardware in chrome. Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted May 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2013 Thanks Darin. Just about got the easy part done (disassemble) I won't go cheap. I don't see the point of saving money on tools... you REALLY get what you pay for. Another note engine is going to be going to the shop on Saturday (luckly I have Troy Ermish ten minutes from my house) Getting everything cleaned and inspected and go over what way to go with it. Quote Link to comment
heretic Posted May 17, 2013 Report Share Posted May 17, 2013 :) keep us posted :) ....... (luckly I have Troy Ermish ten minutes from my house) Getting everything cleaned and inspected and go over what way to go with it. Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted May 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2013 Went to the scrap yard yesterday to dispose of the cab :bye: The guy working there had to do a double take of the weight! He couldn't believe how much the truck weighed. Came up 2600 with two people. Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted May 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2013 Well its been a while since I have updated. Went to pick and pull and got a new set of spindles and calipers. Spindles came off a '92 hardbody, calipers are two pistons and came off a 2wd '92 pathfinder. Now to be correct I need the v6 hardbody rotors? Was also wondering if a sway bar off an early 720 would work with my '79 620 arms? Seems like everything is the same. I also noticed while at the yard that there are different style calipers on the pathfinders. The 4x4's have fins on the inside while the 2x4 doesn't. Is there a difference between them other than looks? On another note half of the frame has been cleaned, sanded, and painted. Just the upper half to go! Quote Link to comment
heretic Posted May 28, 2013 Report Share Posted May 28, 2013 Yup V6 D21 rotors. I used twin piston pathy 4x4 calipers, 2WD d21 hubs & V6 d21 rotors. No issues BUT my 15" Pathfinder rims BARELY cleared the wheel & at full lock the tie rod would rub the wheel weight & slightly rub the rim. I'm not sure what the offset is on those wheels but I ended up with 18's so obviously no issue there. I used a sway bar from a 75' on my 78' with the same front hardware & I ordered the ends links from Rock Auto for a 78-79, they're longer than the early ones. Worked just fine. 4x4 calipers are twin piston, 2x4 are single. well where's the pics of that frame :) Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted May 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2013 Will be keeping an eye out for that sway bar then. Just what I was hoping not to hear. I wanted to use my 15's still but we will have to see if they will fit. I will have pictures of the frame soon. Quote Link to comment
heretic Posted May 28, 2013 Report Share Posted May 28, 2013 any early 620 sway bar should be fine. I'll check my stuff I might have one. I really think it depends on the back spacing on the wheels & putting a wheel spacer on may give just enough clearance. Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted May 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2013 Here is the frame as it sits now. I am heading off to Las Vegas for the rest of the week (brothers 21st) so nothing new will be happening until I return. Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted June 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2013 Finished sanding and painting the frame. Also sanded and painted the upper and lower control arms. Now just got to do the calipers and spindles and order some parts then assembly of the front. Still have the rear axle and what not. Slowly coming along. On another not I got a '73 240z wood steering wheel that will be added. Just got it ready to be painted and stained. Quote Link to comment
heretic Posted June 21, 2013 Report Share Posted June 21, 2013 pics or it didn't happen :poke: :) just make sure you use high temp paint for your calipers because those bad boys get HOT Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted June 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2013 Here are just a few quick snaps. Will get better ones. I was looking at the kit that they have at the auto store for the caliper paint. A little pricey but if it works then its worth it. Also has anyone used tru-oil on their wood steering wheels? They use it for gun stocks and it looks to give the wood a good finish so I'm going to give it a go. Quote Link to comment
heretic Posted June 21, 2013 Report Share Posted June 21, 2013 :) right on. I wish you were closer I'd offer up a hand.!! I've never used one of those kits but I do know that just like all paint jobs, the prep is paramount to a long lasting product. Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted June 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2013 :) right on. I wish you were closer I'd offer up a hand.!! I've never used one of those kits but I do know that just like all paint jobs, the prep is paramount to a long lasting product. Once everything gets closer I will need some people over to help transfer the cab and bed to the new frame. Of course there will be beer as a reward for your services :D Quote Link to comment
heretic Posted June 24, 2013 Report Share Posted June 24, 2013 Let me know when it happens & if I've got noth'n pressing going on, I'll jam down & help.!!! Once everything gets closer I will need some people over to help transfer the cab and bed to the new frame. Of course there will be beer as a reward for your services :D Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted June 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2013 Awesome! Yesterday I went down to a friends shop who builds custom hot rods. Going to get all the holes in my fenders welded up and the sun shade removed and the holes welded up also. :thumbup: On another note.. I traded my old wheels for a uncracked front windshield. Now I can get the gasket replaced since it likes to leak.. Quote Link to comment
heretic Posted June 24, 2013 Report Share Posted June 24, 2013 RIGHT ON, I didn't realise you werent digg'n your sun visor the windshield gasket is something I HAVE TOO addres before winter this year, the red truck leaks BAD.!! what are you gonna do for seats, keep the bench or go to buckets? If you want I've got a clean pair of black buckets you can have. They were in my green truck when I bought it & I'm replacing them with Jag bucket seats so I've no use for them. Quote Link to comment
Janksun Posted June 24, 2013 Report Share Posted June 24, 2013 I'll help transferring cab and bed and what not :P Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted June 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 Cool thanks guys! I wouldn't mind it so much if it had a better way of attaching to the truck. Not a big fan of the rivets which means holes and RUST.. and water leaks. Yeah same here. Found out I had a few bad leaks last time we had a downpour and I was driving. Had two little waterfalls in my truck :lol: For now I was just planing on the bench seat. Do those buckets need the railing modded? Shoot me some pictures. Janksun, I have still not found that radiator overflow container. IDK what I did with it... Quote Link to comment
heretic Posted June 25, 2013 Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 It was already moded with stock bucket rails to bolt to the factory locations on my KC but I dont know if single cabs have the same rear mounting holes. I'll get some picks for you. Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted June 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2013 Alright. So after debating for a few days its official. I am redoing the whole frame. I don't like the paint that I used. It was something my neighbor gave me for free. It thought it would dry hard but it stays rubbery. I could scratch it off with me finger nail and that was with over a week of drying. Back to sanding it all down to metal again! :fu: Now the question is should I just go with POR15 or use a frame paint? There is no way for me to move the frame so powder coating is out of the question and $$$ range. Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.