darrel Posted April 20, 2013 Report Share Posted April 20, 2013 **1979 620 KC** I have heat. Rodded radiator, replaced heater core and water cock. While taking out the heater core, there was a buildup of leaves covering approximately 75%. That wasn't the only thing causing lack of heat. The radiator was 3/4 blocked when using a IR temp gun. I am sure what clogged the rad up also did the same with the heater core. While I could blow through the heater core, it wasn't enough trying to run water through it at the faucet. I also had three heater controls, I took the best parts from three to make one good one. Nice straight wires, cleaned and regreased all pivot points. The actions are working smoothly now. Quote Link to comment
darrel Posted April 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2013 Today I took an extra turn signal switch. Disassembled everything. Lost a c clip, bought c clip, lost the ball bearing, lost spring(pivot on turn signal stalk), found spring, bought ball bearing, found old ball bearing, c clip is still missing in action. There is one ball bearing at the end of the turn signal stalk held in by a bracket(with detents) secured by two screws. Be careful when removing the bracket. One small spring in the end of the stalk which pushes on the ball bearing which pushes against the bracket for detents. Soaked the copper in vinegar overnight. Cleaned old grease from all parts. The dimmer and brights contacts may look intimidating but really aren't as long as you take your time and compare parts and remember how they came apart. Pictures might work for some, I didn't use pics. All the white spacers are the same, just be aware of the order and contact position. The turn signal compartment has two small springs and two toggle contacts. The springs are really small, be careful they don't fall out. Used dielectric grease on all friction areas. Tested per factory service manual, all continuity checks confirmed. Before I started, this switch was not working smoothly. The turn signals were catchy and would probably wear the parts prematurely. Quote Link to comment
highdesertdatsun Posted April 24, 2013 Report Share Posted April 24, 2013 Cool beans I'm gonna tackle the switches on my daughters 620. The blower motor switch is inop . And the light switch is bypassed so I'm gonna go there too.what year is your truck? Pictures just add to your descriptions but they are a pain in the ass at first.just do it. Pics that is We all like to see other Datsuns! Quote Link to comment
darrel Posted April 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2013 Sorry, thought I had the year in subject line. Not very big on pic taking. Plus I can't find my memory card. I know it's around someplace. I may eventually find the c clip that went flying. Quote Link to comment
DatDoug Posted April 24, 2013 Report Share Posted April 24, 2013 Sorry, thought I had the year in subject line. Not very big on pic taking. Plus I can't find my memory card. I know it's around someplace. I may eventually find the c clip that went flying. Were not big on reading a bunch of words with no pictures to look at :sneaky: 1 Quote Link to comment
darrel Posted April 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 Like other heater fan problems, I had no low speed. The resistor is located next to the fan motor on the side of the heater box. No screws, it just snaps in. resistor unhooked, no low speed. resistor hooked back up, now both speeds on fan work. Quote Link to comment
darrel Posted April 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2013 There are pics in another thread of the truck. Thought I would put them into one. The truck is pretty much unmolested, emissions are still in it, radio area in dash has been cut with jigsaw. Other than that it is really clean. 20' paint job, minor dents on the bed. Had minor things wrong with it. Rodded out rad, replaced heater core, heater valve, refurbished heater controls, replaced head, put in 5 spd and repaired the turn signal switch(the brake lights didn't work on pass side, it was a broken solder connection on switch.) I cannot find any rust. There might be some bondo in the passenger door, the door has been replaced at one time. If I took a sheet magnet and put it on the truck, it will probably stick. The exhaust still has the stock heat shield. The odometer showed 26k miles. It almost looks like it may have that much, but probably has 126K. I would be hard pressed to say it had been turned over more than once. Maybe one day I will get better pics posted. Quote Link to comment
darrel Posted April 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2013 One of the previous owners did this. I do have another bezel and dash. I also have a console with the radio block plate, have another console with the radio cutouts cut out. I will eventually get one good of everything to put in. Quote Link to comment
darrel Posted April 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2013 '79 Turn signal break down. '79 620 turn signal complete TS assembly break down, when hard to turn, the copper shims, bracket and black piece need greased. Grease the pin, between the copper shims, bracket, black piece. When reassembled grease where the pin and black piece meet. TS contact cavity in white part on left. headlight/passing/high beam parts TS stalk with detent bracket, ball bearing and snap ring. When reassembling, make sure the snap ring split is towards center of TS assembly. The white part with the spring and clip on the black, does not need to be disassembled to be cleaned. Housing for high beam/passing contacts and small springs for TS contact toggles. highbeam/passing/headlight contacts, TS toggle contact cap TS spring, the ball bearing goes on the end of the spring and goes into the end of the stalk. TS contact cap with wires. As you can see, I had to resolder one of these wires. I didn't have a right breaklight. You wanted pics, you got them. Before taking the headlight/high beam/ passing assembly apart, become familiar with all the spacers and where the contacts and where they are placed. The screws are different as well. They all are installed in a particular order. Do not try to straighten out wires. The bends in the wires will make it easier to know where everything goes. I used dielectric grease. Grease where anything contacts and pivots. Also grease the spring at the end of the stalk, it will also help keep the ball bearing in place when putting on the detent bracket. These pics were taken before cleaning. 1 Quote Link to comment
darrel Posted May 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2013 The most difficult thing, if you can call a 620 TS switch difficult is putting the dimmer/passing/high beam contacts back together. All of the spacers and contacts are indexed with notches and raised areas. Start on the side that has the multiple wires and contacts. Just start from the bottom and make sure the indents and cutouts fit together one layer at a time. Two of the longest screws hold down the HL contact assembly. One screw has a flange on the head. This one is on the side with the thicker spacer. 1 Quote Link to comment
darrel Posted May 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2013 I promise, last update on the TS. Here are a couple of vids on the action of the TS switch. Smooth action. If you have a hard time using the switch then you need to clean and grease the switch. http://s30.photobucket.com/user/dlh2460/media/red%20620/Mov_0502_014_zps76d8079a.mp4.html http://s30.photobucket.com/user/dlh2460/media/red%20620/Mov_0502_013_zpse18f797a.mp4.html Quote Link to comment
hawaii_620 Posted May 2, 2013 Report Share Posted May 2, 2013 I have issues with my TS stalk being a little loose.. so the slightest flick on the stalk makes my high beams flicker off and on. I'm gonna try clean it and see if it helps. Looks intimidating with all those little parts. Quote Link to comment
darrel Posted May 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2013 Just guessing, but it might be a broke or missing a spring or a ball bearing. There is a ball bearing that is held in by the bracket fastened with the two screws. Quote Link to comment
darrel Posted May 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2013 pulling the radiator again. Apparently it has a stress crack. I had it rodded out just under a year ago. I will drop off my extra heater core at the same time. I might wait for the rad. Quote Link to comment
heretic Posted June 21, 2013 Report Share Posted June 21, 2013 Sweet truck man that takes guts to crack into the TS switch like that, so many little & fragile parts..... hats off Quote Link to comment
darrel Posted June 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2013 Sweet truck man that takes guts to crack into the TS switch like that, so many little & fragile parts..... hats off It's much simpler than a 240z combo switch. No metal tabs to bend back and re-bend back into place. Once you get it apart, it really is very simple. Reassemble in reverse order. ;-) Quote Link to comment
darrel Posted July 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2013 There are still quite a few questions about how to remove the headlight switch and wiper switch knobs on 620 pickups. Here are a couple of vids, one for each knob. Very simple, to remove the knobs, you can push in and twist one way or the other, to put back on, push in again and twist. The knobs are spring loaded. nissan/datsun used the same procedure on many of their other models, 280zx for one. http://s30.photobucket.com/user/dlh2460/media/phone%20pics/620windshieldwiperswitch_zps4f82ff9b.mp4.html http://s30.photobucket.com/user/dlh2460/media/phone%20pics/620headlightswitch_zps065b2ae3.mp4.html Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted December 2, 2013 Report Share Posted December 2, 2013 Needs white/off-white wheels. Quote Link to comment
darrel Posted March 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 finally bought some new tires. Now I won't have to hear, "We can't put air in those tires, they're too old!" $386 m&b with road hazard through discount tire. kumho 195 75 14. Quote Link to comment
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