denmarkboy Posted April 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2013 Awesome day in Oregon,here is a couple of pictures. Talk to the original owner last night and he told me that the truck hasn't moved on its own for 8/10 years. I plan to have it on the road by Sunday. I am going to tear down the braking system and interior. Right now the brakes won't even hold it back at all..! I took the heater box out last night,I don't think I am gonna put it back in for a while. 1 Quote Link to comment
chopderek Posted April 19, 2013 Report Share Posted April 19, 2013 Damn I really like that thing and mine is almost just like it!! ;) 2 Quote Link to comment
denmarkboy Posted April 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2013 Thanks Derek, Al here, tried to look for pics on you topics but could nav it. Would love to it. I ve been lovin thread trucks 25 + years. Wish I had one of every factory color. I am tearing into the front brakes this morning,I will throw up some picture,mid-stream. Then I am stripping the interior. 1 Quote Link to comment
denmarkboy Posted April 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2013 Oh yeah, the tag for the hooker part # , is for a weld together header set. The set in the truck is an old part # that doesn't exist anymore. But they " Hooker" do still sell the same set. Jegs carries the set,and it 461.00 + shipping. But the skilled weld is not included.! Haha! Quote Link to comment
denmarkboy Posted April 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2013 " Come up for air" that's what the wife just said. " dont wanna" says me Anyway, front brakes are done. Pads were done,but no leaks and the drums were smooth.I repacked the bearings and gave em a shot of satin black." Rust-oleum" this stuff is great. Ripped all the interior out,not as much rust as I first reported. But the hack job on the back of the cab almost made me scream. They could of left a lot of cab. Instead they cut it up pretty bad. At a cross roads again as to Wichita way to go.! Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted April 20, 2013 Report Share Posted April 20, 2013 So what is the plan here, you have a welder? Do you have an idea of what your going to do? Since the seats stick out the back of the cab slightly, you might want to keep that room. If you were to take the back 4 to 6 inches of the back of another 620 cab and paste it on above the box level, then fabricate something that angles from the floor to the top of the box. This would create a lot of bodywork though. You could also just cut an exact copy of what your missing out of a doner cab and tack it in which would minimize the bodywork, but rob you of the extra room you have now with the hole in the back. This is why I ask if you have a plan, so tell me you do, so I can turn my mind off, this type of thing gets me thinking. Quote Link to comment
denmarkboy Posted April 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2013 Believe me, I am not afraid of the challenge. And I see so many ways to go,it keeps me up trust me! I do weld,don't have welder but can get one(I think) . So as for options: Like you said,I like the extra leg room and I am not planning on putting the heater box back in at least until summers over. And due to all the glass and mud work on the body its never going back to stock. That being said,I have consider taking t he top the rest of the off. If I go that route I would probably back the cab with a 5/8 sheet of mdf, which would give ne leg room. This would also give me a place for a box w/ subs facing into the cab. Another route: skinning the back is pretty straight forward,but since they destroyed the roof installing the sunroof. I don't know if the cab is worth that much work . But I do have access to a cab and a cut of wheel. I can get an extra cab, and I could shorten the bed a little.? I kinda like the no top option,but still don't know. TAKING SUGGESTIONS..! Quote Link to comment
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