VintageRice Posted April 13, 2013 Report Share Posted April 13, 2013 I know there's a sticky link on LSD subis. Read all that. But just to be sure I wanted to run this by you guys. So my 510 rear end is howling bad. Getting worse. Is my best bet just going to the local PNP and yanking any open subi diff out of an 80's car/wagon to replace it? It all bolts up except the stub axles right? Then just swap them over? Is it pretty straight forward? I was also thinking of welding my old one up first just for shiz and giggles to see what its like before swapping it out. But will that hinder me in any way taking the stub axles out? Thanks dudes. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 14, 2013 Report Share Posted April 14, 2013 At first sign of sound maybe fill up the oil first and maintaining it. GL-5 90w should do. Never weld up a street car differential. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted April 14, 2013 Report Share Posted April 14, 2013 I believe the splines have to be machined...???.....510 stubs no fittie On the other hand...the 510 stubs can be installed into a 720 diff....just have to swap dust shields. Although.....being that the 180 is wider than the R160, the axles have to addressed. Disregard any info already privy to.... :D Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted April 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2013 At first sign of sound maybe fill up the oil first and maintaining it. GL-5 90w should do. Never weld up a street car differential. Funny enough, the noise started after the first service......... Reguarding welding..........it would just be for a minute to toast some tires off c'mon mike live a little! I believe the splines have to be machined...???.....510 stubs no fittie On the other hand...the 510 stubs can be installed into a 720 diff....just have to swap dust shields. Although.....being that the 180 is wider than the R160, the axles have to addressed. Disregard any info already privy to.... :D So offence sealik, but because of your post I'm now more confused than ever............... :) Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 14, 2013 Report Share Posted April 14, 2013 Funny enough, the noise started after the first service......... Reguarding welding..........it would just be for a minute to toast some tires off c'mon mike live a little! Ohhhhh.... OK Quote Link to comment
Dat510_Chris Posted April 15, 2013 Report Share Posted April 15, 2013 Can't remember for certain but if i recall it was a direct bolt in for me if not damn close. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 16, 2013 Report Share Posted April 16, 2013 the earlier subi diffs you just use a torx tool to remove the shafts and install the 510 diff shafts. this will be the ezeist to do open or LSD. I think these will be pre 91 diffs it will be on olddatsuns.com in the tech section. kurt Hafners write up. thats all it did with mine LSD. its a 3.7 so you might tale off slower. but runs great on HWY Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted April 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2013 the earlier subi diffs you just use a torx tool to remove the shafts and install the 510 diff shafts. this will be the ezeist to do open or LSD. I think these will be pre 91 diffs it will be on olddatsuns.com in the tech section. kurt Hafners write up. thats all it did with mine LSD. its a 3.7 so you might tale off slower. but runs great on HWY Thanks. :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted March 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2017 Ok, bringing this 4 year old thread back from the dead! Picked up a 2002 Subaru Outback rear diff from pick-n-pull this weekend. $99 I did this based on what "domn8tr" posted here http://community.ratsun.net/topic/778-subi-r160-lsd-link/page-2 Where he said if you get the VLSD from the right year Outback, that all I need to do is get a c-clip notch machined into my stock 510 stubs and it's a bolt in. So I got the diff, my 510 stubs slide right in, but not far enough to engage the clip. I'm thinking the dust cover needs to come off, that may allow them to slide in Far enough. How do I remove that? Do they just pop off? Also, I have read a lot about the stock CV axles being different length stubs on the Subarus, But I know for a fact the two axles I pulled out of this differential were exactly the same length. I have pics and vid. Working on posting. Both stubs engage about a half inch of splines now and they turn the same direction, so that's a start. Quote Link to comment
Jesse C. Posted March 22, 2017 Report Share Posted March 22, 2017 Go here and start reading. Lots of reading. http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13240-A-spotters-guide-to-Subaru-differentials http://community.ratsun.net/topic/37236-r160-diff/ http://forums.nicoclub.com/subaru-r160-lsd-into-510-info-t186165.html Quote Link to comment
G-Duax Posted March 22, 2017 Report Share Posted March 22, 2017 Where he said if you get the VLSD from the right year Outback, that all I need to do is get a c-clip notch machined into my stock 510 stubs and it's a bolt in. Not even close ! If you have a VLSD from a subi, and you stick the 510 shafts into it after machining the snap ring groves, you no longer have an LSD, you have an overpriced open diff. The reason is, that one of the subi vlsd shafts has a double spline, one smaller than the other, that engages the viscous coupling to get the lsd effect, such as it is with the vlsds. You can use the 510 shafts with either the clutch style, or the AP Suretrack LSDs. I have done many sets of shafts to fit them. But without the second spline, which the 510 shafts don't have, you have no lsd. The AP SureTrack comes in 2 styles, one to accept open diff shafts, and one to accept vlsd shafts. The required grove location varies between the 2, but they both work with modified 510 shafts. Here is a picture of the double spline subi shaft for the vlsd. No way to duplicate it with a 510 shaft. Here is a set of 510 shafts machined to fit the AP lsd that was meant to replace the lack-luster vlsd, so it had to fit those shafts. Not shown in the picture is a 1.5mm thick round wire snap ring that needs to go on the shaft. I've been importing the APs for about 15 years now, so I have handled quite a few. 1 Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted March 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2017 Thanks for the responses guys!! I've already read through all those links posted the last few months doing research on this. Still learning. Good info. And to G-Duax, what exactly is the "AP" diff you speak of? The diff I got came out of an 02 Outback, the wheels spun the same direction when I turn the input shaft, and the CV's that I pulled out were the SAME LENGTH. I checked and double checked. So what diff do I have then?? If I have to go back to pick-n-pull, and pay a dollar to take a pick of the CV's I will haha. I ALMOST paid to take them too so I'd have the stubs but pick-n-pull wants $30 each and one I damaged the boot removing it. What about using the stock subi cv's and having a shop weld half the subi axel to half of the datto one? Custom welded axels not strong enough?? Just an idea. Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted March 23, 2017 Report Share Posted March 23, 2017 Low power daily driver usage might be ok for welded axles but nothing more. Axle shafts are hardened and welding them undoes that. Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted March 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2017 First pic is just a pic of the inside. The next two show the location of the c-clip. The clip looks like it's farther in on one side. They're actually both the same distance in from the outside. Basically, with the dust covers in tact, the stock 510 stubs go in far enough to just touch the c-clips. I took a dust cap off tonight and eureka! The stub splines slide in another 1/4" or so and pass by the c-clips, that means I can get a groove machined and they will lock into the diff. There is not two separate set of splines on one side as discribed earlier, as described as using the different length axel's. I don't see why this won't work people. It sure acts like a limited slip, both sides turn the same way, unless you really hold one side tight, like with a pry bar, and then it's really hard to turn the other side, but it does turn. Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted March 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2017 One way to be sure. 1. Install 2. Two tire burnouts 3. Post video Seems legit!! Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted March 23, 2017 Report Share Posted March 23, 2017 Stolen from the 510Realm Post11 Sep 2013 22:21 So just an update to my progress. The cars still running great. I've since gotten a r160 vlsd from a 2007 subaru wrx its a nice improvement over the stock open diff. So what i did was cut the tip off of the subaru half shafts and drilled and tapped it so it can be bolted to the end of the stock datsun half shaft, so what this does is allows me to just snap in my stock axles into the subaru diff. Granted its not the strongest but its been working for a while.... that is until i tried one more burnout :( and it sheared off End of the half shaft. So put in another set i had laying around, now im just taking it easy until i can get a stronger half shaft. There are pics and further discussion about his use of an equal length cv shaft type of Subaru lsd here. http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=12917&start=90 Quote Link to comment
G-Duax Posted March 23, 2017 Report Share Posted March 23, 2017 And to G-Duax, what exactly is the "AP" diff you speak of? Was an option in Japan for both the R160, and R180. Made by AP Racing in the UK (?). Weird looking internals, but all I can say is that they act like a helical. Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted March 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2017 G, thanks for the info man. Weird diff. Lockleaf, thanks for the link. Interesting build for sure. Tonight I popped both the stubs into the diff and measures with my digital calipers the difference from sitting against the c-clip to fully engaged and it's about 5mm on both sides. So I should be able to have a groove machined about 5mm in on both sides, pop those bad boys into place and start bolting in into the 510! Will let you guys know how it works out as soon as I get them up to the machine shop. Already talked to a place that'll do it for about $30. That's if the steel is not to hard to turn. Heck, I'll take a cutoff disk to these if I have to hahaha. Kidding but not kidding............ Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted April 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2017 Got my axel stubs back from the machine shop. Groove turned in 5mm from the end. Cost me $30. Had to swap the dust cover from the subie, onto the drive shaft flange from the datto. Tacked the dust shield on. Then. Two wheel burnout. Done. Total cost of this R-160 viscous LSD in my 510. $130. So far I only did a few miles of test driving. Couple dead stop burnouts. Both wheels spin at first but then one hooks up before the other, that's the best I can describe it. It's doesn't act like a full posi like an old muscle car. But it works. It feels a little more "open" than I imagine a clutch style LSD feels, but hey. It's better than open and it was $130 bucks!! Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted April 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2017 Forgot the proof pic. 1 Quote Link to comment
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