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B210 Smog Removal


tato927

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I just got a 1975 Datsun B210 and i want to take all the smog suff off and get a new carb and intake manifold. Can someone tell me were i can get new card and intake manifold? Maybe a new Holly Carb? Can i modifiy the intake manifold and plug all the extra stuff????

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What for? There's no gain for doing this and risk of fucking something up... broken bolts, vacuum leaks, poor running, bad mileage. The B-210 gives great mileage and performance as is and the pollution controls have very little effect on it.

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If you are bent on doing it, looking to get more performance or to 'clean it up', then nothing I say is going to matter. I think the risks aren't worth all the bother. There's no gain in power and no one can see the motor when you're driving it. There's a lot of work to remove everything and do it right without causing further problems. Most people have no idea what the emission controls do so removing them is like doing brain surgery on yourself.

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I want preformance and clean it up! Any suggestions?

Read the bold areas on these two posts...

What for? There's no gain for doing this and risk of fucking something up... broken bolts, vacuum leaks, poor running, bad mileage. The B-210 gives great mileage and performance as is and the pollution controls have very little effect on it.

 

If you are bent on doing it, looking to get more performance or to 'clean it up', then nothing I say is going to matter. I think the risks aren't worth all the bother. There's no gain in power and no one can see the motor when you're driving it. There's a lot of work to remove everything and do it right without causing further problems. Most people have no idea what the emission controls do so removing them is like doing brain surgery on yourself.

I understand 'cleaning it up' but if this is a euphemism for 'removing pollution crap that's robbing 10 horse power from me' you are deluding yourself. At the very best here's what will happen....

 

You will spend hours removing the air pump, hoses, anti back fire valve, air injection nozzles, carb warm air system, EGR, charcoal canister, BCDD, thermal vacuum valve and probably a few others and at the very best it will run the same.

 

The car smells of gas when you drive it, won't run or run properly or give good mileage and you will be back here with questions.

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Funny how the "power robbing smog controls" myth still perpetuates itself. It seems that this really took hold in the 70s as a way to place blame for a lack of performance in former performance badges. What was really happening was many car companies meager attempts at improving gas mileage by lowering performance. Today, we have cars that have good to great gas mileage, great perfomance and emissions controls. I'm currently purchasing a 74 B210 and there is virtually nothing on the engine emissions control wise. I can't imagine there being that much more on a '75 B210. Just my 2 cents.

 

Nice find btw. I like the color better than the green on the one I'm buying. Looks like yours was/is in a similar situation to the one I found. Sunk into the ground and forgotten for decades.

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the reason i understand why people want to get rid of the smog equipment on A motors is they look like they were slapped together as an afterthought.  having hoses all over the place really makes the motor look ugly.   that said, if you want to start removing stuff be smart and know what your doing. 

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Thanks! It got it from an 85 year old man. I think i need a new car or something. It turns on and idels realy good but when i put it in drive it turns off!

Funny how the "power robbing smog controls" myth still perpetuates itself. It seems that this really took hold in the 70s as a way to place blame for a lack of performance in former performance badges. What was really happening was many car companies meager attempts at improving gas mileage by lowering performance. Today, we have cars that have good to great gas mileage, great perfomance and emissions controls. I'm currently purchasing a 74 B210 and there is virtually nothing on the engine emissions control wise. I can't imagine there being that much more on a '75 B210. Just my 2 cents.

Nice find btw. I like the color better than the green on the one I'm buying. Looks like yours was/is in a similar situation to the one I found. Sunk into the ground and forgotten for decades.

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  • 7 months later...
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I just got a 1975 Datsun B210 and i want to take all the smog suff off and get a new carb and intake manifold. Can someone tell me were i can get new card and intake manifold? Maybe a new Holly Carb? Can i modifiy the intake manifold and plug all the extra stuff????

 

Hi, Did you take off the smog pump?  If so, can you sell me the pulley?  Also, i work at Oreilly Auto Parts and if you need anything, let me know, I get 40% discount.  Peace Brother.

 

-Octavio

6192139382

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a 74 B210 and there is virtually nothing on the engine emissions control wise. I can't imagine there being that much more on a '75 B210.

Start imagining. The controls escalated on the 1975 model, for example it contains a smog pump where 1974 doesn't. 1974 also doesn't have BCCD, anti-backfire or air injection nozzles.

 

Deleting the emission control will clean up the engine in that it will look neater and less complicated. Note that is against federal law to remove the controls.

 

Removing the hoses will cause serious vacuum leaks. If removed, something must be done to plug the leaks. Plus the engine will probably run-on (diesel, won't stop running after the key is turned to off), pinging often starts and oil usage increase. If removed, the engine should be re-tuned for optimum driveability. It can all be removed safely if you know what you are doing. It won't help performance one bit -- unless the emission controls were defective. Whatever you do, don't remove the PCV system or charcoal cannister/fuel tank vent system -- those help performance.

 

So first thing is make sure the engine runs correctly before you start. 1974 has the little 1.3 liter engine, so to get the most HP out of it, be sure to put your foot down and let it rev to at least 4500 before shifting. It is designed to rev to 6400 RPM so it is not abusing the engine. If you rev it to 5500 before shifting you'll get the best acceleration (assuming the engine is tuned-up correctly).

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Oh my gosh.... thats awesome

 

Yeah, let me know if you need anything...you have my number, i have yours aswell but I did not save it in time before it got lost in my incoming calls list, sorry, bro.  Shoot me an email with your number whenever you need anything, I will give you my number, and shoot me a text with your list.  Peace Brother music_equalslife@live.com

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I think i need a new carb!!! I can turn on my car and it idles perfectly. Just when i am about to put it in drive it turns off!

Very common symptom, which does not indicate the carburetor is bad. Usually it is caused by a cracked or broken vacuum hose. But it could be that the idle is set too low or the air/fuel screw is set incorrectly. Start with a Tune-up. Don't buy any new parts for a tune-up, instead inspect what you have and only replace what is bad. Spark plugs last for years, cap & rotor can last twenty years (especially genuine Nissan caps). Replace the points & condensor every 12 months per the owner's manual.
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