620Soldier Posted April 7, 2013 Report Share Posted April 7, 2013 I'm doing a KA swap and can't for the life of me get the damn alternator right. Battery arcs every time I got to check it. I can't read schematics, so I need the dummy "the big white one with a red stripe" deal. I've searched the forum and Google and I can't seem to even find what posts are what. I need to wire the black, battery, white with red stripe, and black with yellow stripe into a 23100 30R00. Sorry about the lack of OICs. Quote Link to comment
DeviousPsycho620 Posted April 7, 2013 Report Share Posted April 7, 2013 Let me go look at mine and maybe snap a pic and see if it'll help. Quote Link to comment
620Soldier Posted April 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2013 Thanks! Quote Link to comment
DeviousPsycho620 Posted April 7, 2013 Report Share Posted April 7, 2013 This is what i got. Quote Link to comment
DeviousPsycho620 Posted April 7, 2013 Report Share Posted April 7, 2013 I don't think it's the stock one, but a high output. But it should be close i would think. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 7, 2013 Report Share Posted April 7, 2013 . I'm doing a KA swap and can't for the life of me get the damn alternator right. Battery arcs every time I got to check it. I can't read schematics, so I need the dummy "the big white one with a red stripe" deal. I've searched the forum and Google and I can't seem to even find what posts are what.I need to wire the black, battery, white with red stripe, and black with yellow stripe into a 23100 30R00. Sorry about the lack of OICs. Your truck has an external regulator and that looks like a KA alt which is internally regulated. They do not mix. You have to remove the external regulator and join two pair of those wires.. Alternator wiring....The White/Red stripe is the power output from the alt and goes to the positive terminal of the battery. (you may want to run a second heavier wire from that terminal over to the starter lug where the battery cable bolts to it/ This alt puts out almost 3 times what the stock alternator does and the small white/red wire isn't that big. Black is ground... looks ok The White/Black stripe goes to the N terminal on that plug.The Yellow goes to the F terminal on that plug. Disabling the external regulator....I just cut the regulator off with the wires as long as possible. Strip and join the Yellow and the White wire on the plug. Strip and join the White/Black and the White/Red wires. Be sure to solder and tape or shrink wrap them. Remove any other wires on that plug. Now just plug the old regulator plug into the engine harness and you're done. Your plug may be different shape but the wires should be the same. Quote Link to comment
DeviousPsycho620 Posted April 7, 2013 Report Share Posted April 7, 2013 Your truck has an external alternator and that looks like a KA alt which is internally regulated. They do not mix. You have to remove the external regulator and join two pair of those wires.. Mine? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 7, 2013 Report Share Posted April 7, 2013 Ha ha sorry didn't look close enough. There I edited it.. Quote Link to comment
DeviousPsycho620 Posted April 7, 2013 Report Share Posted April 7, 2013 I got all confused too. No worries. I thought my shit was hooked up wrong. Lol Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 7, 2013 Report Share Posted April 7, 2013 No looks ok to me. Can't tell about the plug but if it works it werks. Quote Link to comment
DeviousPsycho620 Posted April 7, 2013 Report Share Posted April 7, 2013 Cool. I'll have to pick your brain sometime. I know nothing about my truck. 1st Datsun and all. Plus all the mods. Very confusing. Quote Link to comment
620Soldier Posted April 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2013 Awesome! This is exactly what I have been looking for. Thanks a lot guys. 1 Quote Link to comment
DeviousPsycho620 Posted April 7, 2013 Report Share Posted April 7, 2013 Yep. Anything to help' Quote Link to comment
620Soldier Posted April 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2013 OK, plug was round and I had a white with blue stripe, and a black one. They were removed and I fused the wires said. Arcing issue is gone, can/am run and ECCS lights come on. Huge progress! However, when I connect the battery I hear a relay trip, and I don't get crank. Idiot lights and stereo work along with can/am, but that's it. Also, my alt is labeled l and s. Can those be switched around with f and n? I feel pretty close to running. Super stoked. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 8, 2013 Report Share Posted April 8, 2013 OK, plug was round and I had a white with blue stripe, and a black one. They were removed and I fused the wires said. Arcing issue is gone, can/am run and ECCS lights come on. Huge progress! However, when I connect the battery I hear a relay trip, and I don't get crank. Idiot lights and stereo work along with can/am, but that's it. Also, my alt is labeled l and s. Can those be switched around with f and n? I feel pretty close to running. Super stoked. Yes you can It's been a while since I did my S13 alt swap but I did wright it down. L on the KA alt. goes to F on the 620 S on the KA alt. goes to N on the 620 Quote Link to comment
620Soldier Posted April 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2013 Nice. Very glad to know there was a direct translation. After cutting out the regulator I noticed that it had also fed to another relay. This relay clicks after a moment from being connected to the battery. Did I cut and splice at the wrong box? I'm sorry for all the questions. I can do most things mechanical, but anything electricity involved is something I have a a hard time getting a handle on. Quote Link to comment
620Soldier Posted April 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2013 So its my heater relay I hear kicking when I connect the battery, and I have no crank. I have a hard time believing I screwed up the voltage regulator delete when it was simplified nearly to the point of judging out the crayons. What on earth could cause that? Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted April 8, 2013 Report Share Posted April 8, 2013 You have a KA swap, so the choke heater relay is totally useless. Unplug, problem solved. Connecting the wires per Mike's instructions work well when no choke relay is used, but its' a big issue when there is one since it turns the choke relay on permanently. Quote Link to comment
620Soldier Posted April 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2013 Ah. When I was in my manual I thought it was for the actual heater. Thanks! Hopefully this will get me crankong. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 8, 2013 Report Share Posted April 8, 2013 Yes the coil on the choke relay is energized even with the key off . Quote Link to comment
620Soldier Posted April 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2013 Heater relay is pulled. Still no crank. I have no idea what I'm missing. Quote Link to comment
620Soldier Posted April 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2013 Crank issue solved. Had the negative at starter, and positive directly connected to the alt. I have no idea how I managed that. After putting the wires right I got the soilanoid to kick and lost all power. Battery is dead. But my truck lives! Quote Link to comment
DeviousPsycho620 Posted April 9, 2013 Report Share Posted April 9, 2013 Right on man. Glad to hear it! Quote Link to comment
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