'74 and then some

[KlassicMotion]

Don't fix what ain't broken

 

 

There is some crud in the carburetor fuel bowl. Drain it. Remove the sight glass cover.

 

Unless I read it wrong, he already has the Weber 32/36... not the Hitachi.

[JNHEscher]

Unless I read it wrong, he already has the Weber 32/36... not the Hitachi.

Weber is correct. Brand new, too.

[ggzilla]

the fuel started to foul over the winter.

Don't know exactly what you mean, but if you had a batch of bad gas, replacing filter won't necessarily get it out of the carburetor.

 

With a Weber 32/36, there is no drain plugs like on a Hitachi. You can remove the top and use a turkey baster to remove the fuel, or remove the carb to drain it. I would not try to rebuild it. Don't fix what ain't broken.

 

What do you mean by paper gaskets? Of course fuel will get on the gaskets, but unless its leaking its no problem.

[JNHEscher]

It started to get the varnish smell of old gas. I had fresh gas in but it sat for a few months. Ive ran a tank's worth of new gas in it recently. The paper gaskets do leak a bit. Nothing drastic, but the sides of the carb are always damp with fuel when its running. This rough running issue only lasts for half an hour each time I start it cold. After that, it has power and runs fine, just a tad rich. Its almost like condensation builds up in the carb.

[KlassicMotion]

Before I even put my new Weber on, I made new gaskets out of the modern fuel safe material. Those gaskets Weber gives you are worthless.

 

Do you have a manual choke or electric choke?

[JNHEscher]

Electric.

[JNHEscher]

Just did some reading and found that the L20 block height is higher than the L16/18. That being the case, I'll have to order a chain for a '75+. Gonna get new guides and tentioner since its fully extended.

[JNHEscher]

[JNHEscher]

I've read that the timing marks are supposed to be straight up. My crank mark lines up with the flat of the main bearing cap with #1 at tdc. The cam gear has a v notch that lines up to a mark on the cam thrust cap within a few degrees. Close enough to run fine, assuming the marks are good.

 

 

 

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

the dimples ae for the brite links on the chain. If both have them then 99% its good.

 

Going by the 2nd photo it looks like a tooth off. But you got to have the timming cover back on and dial it up to #1 with tension and then see where the V notch is in relation with the dash on cam tower

[JNHEscher]

Yup yup. Finally came across a PDF with proper specs and illustrations this morning. I have it at dead center. The can gear has already been moved to the last pin hole to compensate for stretch. I ordered an L20 chain, guides, and tensioner this morning. I'll be comfortable with driving this to Maine and California now.

[banzai510(hainz)]

olddatsuns.com should be enough to get you by

L20s come with #2 installed.

 

I personally never seen much chain stretch myself. More they missed a tooth.

[ggzilla]

Some times people see worn guides & adjuster, and call it chain stretch. When in fact it hasn't stretched.

[JNHEscher]

It gets all new either way since I have it open. Maintenance, ya know. It'll be a selling point, too, when the time comes.

 

Should be jumping back to the bodywork shortly. Been eyeing a slammed 620 for sale that I'm sorely tempted to buy and take to Camp N' Drag. Hard to get the time for it all in between fixing heaps of other cars and misc. work.

[JNHEscher]

Valve timing is all set back to factory. Couldn't find my wire feeler gauge set, so I'll pick up another tomorrow to check valve lash.

[ggzilla]

Most of us use flat feeler gauges although I suppose you could use a wire gauge carefully.

[JNHEscher]

None of my skinny blade gauges go below 0.010". I'll probably get the timing cover and such back on tonight. Really want to drive it to cCali but I'm pretty sure I'm headed there in a few short weeks and haven't the time to have it streetable by then.

[JNHEscher]

Got the timing cover buttoned up, oil pump and dizzy on, and valve lash set. If I have time tomorrow, I'll get the cooling stuff slapped on with an electric fan mounted. Got a 14" reversible fan from Kenny. Measures to fit perfectly.

[Cpl620]

Gona make a cowling for it?

[JNHEscher]

If it needs it. The fan is about as big as the rad. I'll have to see how much air it moves through.

[JNHEscher]

The right valve timing makes a hell of a difference. Still sputters a bit but I now have smooth acceleration. No vibrations or rattles from the one piece shaft. Ordering the stuff to hook up the electric fan. It warmed up within a couple minutes without the mechanical fan and its so much quieter with a new water pump.

[Cpl620]

if i remember the mid 2000 model jeta E fans pushed a shit tone of air. if your not too concerned with appearance, and can find one. that might be a good option.

[JNHEscher]

My friend gave me his unused 14" fan which fits great. I'm trying to find out what the thread is on the thermal vacuum valve so I can get theright kit for the electric fan.

[JNHEscher]

Major life changes have taken their toll, but here's to getting back on track. I just moved to Alamosa, Colorado. I should be posting updates again as soon as I haul the Datsun up.