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How to wire a KA, CA, SR, and VG into anything


Icehouse

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Didn't mean to be an asshole. Sorry.

 

I'm still confused on what you're asking?

Don't worry, i never saw you as an asshole. 

 

What i'm asking is from where does both relays the one on the top and the one on the bottom get a ground source? Because yhe one on the top has wire 105 in pin 85 and the one on the bottom has wire 4 in pin 85. Which to my believe pin 85 is the pin that needs to be grounded. Or am i wrong?

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Don't worry, i never saw you as an asshole. 

 

What i'm asking is from where does both relays the one on the top and the one on the bottom get a ground source? Because yhe one on the top has wire 105 in pin 85 and the one on the bottom has wire 4 in pin 85. Which to my believe pin 85 is the pin that needs to be grounded. Or am i wrong?

 

The ECU provides the ground when needed, that's how it controls the relay.  

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The ECU provides the ground when needed, that's how it controls the relay.  

OOOOHHHHH, okay, so yes, i just need to follow the diagram just like mhub91 said. Thanks icehouse, now i know the real motive as to why both 104 and 4 go in pin 85 on the relays. 

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Got around to finally starting my KA swap... No power to fuel pump, and no spark... Followed the provided diagram. Ecu has power though. Pump does not prime when key on.

 

Hm...

I had the same issue.

turns out, i was missing 1 tiny ground wire (mine was the one on the same loom as the 02 sensor)

 

just double check all of your grounds. I printed out the wiring diagram for the 240, which helped me find where all the grounds are supposed to be properly connected to.

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Thanks. I wi double check all grounds.

 

If worst comes to worst.... Would there be any problem just running the fuel pump stand alone from the ecu? I mean having it not controlled by the ecu, and supplying 12v to it at all times, on a switch?

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Thanks. I wi double check all grounds.

 

If worst comes to worst.... Would there be any problem just running the fuel pump stand alone from the ecu? I mean having it not controlled by the ecu, and supplying 12v to it at all times, on a switch?

 

 

It's fine to do that.  It's really just setup to go through the ecu so if you are in a wreck and the car catches fire the fuel pump doesn't keep feeding the fire.  

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Thanks, I think I'll be forced to do this... But the fuel pump relay feeds the air regulator and fuel pump. Since fuel pump isn't getting power, can I just attach the air regulator wire to a different 12v source?

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Just make your toggle switch ground out the relay that the used to be switched by the black with pink from the ecu.  Go one step further and hide the switch.  Then no one can steel your rig either.  

 

On a different topic was your rig on CL a while back?   

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I've read through numerous posts about the CANAM boxes, and wiring KA's in 620s 510s 720s etc......

and I seem to think I've got it down perfectly when I get off the computer, but then I start hanging out under the dash and I get all backwards and messed up.

 

I bought a marine fuse panel with 12 spots for fuses (the bottom half), and 12 seperate spots for grounding (the top half)

so I've made a very crude diagram of what I have, so that the wiring gurus could answer a couple of probably simple questions.

 

first of all, does this all seem correct? I'm especially concerned about the relays, ive never had to wire relays before.

What is the 3rd relay for? I was thinking the ECU, but then what do I use for the trigger (pin 86)? I'm thinking the ignition coil wire from the datsun... the fat black w/ white tracer? and would the output (pin 87) be the fat black w/ red tracer?

and lastly.... any input on what amperage fuses to use for 6 spots on the bottom right of my fusebox?

 

Datsun-Fuse-Boxjpg.jpg

 

any help would be GREATLY appreciated. I think it's ready to fire once i get this wiring buttoned up and get my battery installed/hooked up.

i'll be starting a build thread after its running, I've got quite a few oics of the swap progress.

is this for ka24e ?

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A relay will only buzz due to the coil charging and discharging very rapidly. This will only happen under one of three conditions....

 

- voltage supplying the relay drop under 10V

 

- poor connection ( positive, or ground side ) of relay.

 

- damaged relay; possibly coil.

 

Don't forget, a poor connection also means dirty, loose, or corroded connection.

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