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How to wire a KA, CA, SR, and VG into anything


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#321 JZ33

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Posted 26 April 2011 - 07:26 AM

in this months Project Car Magazine there is a how to for an NA SR20 swap into a Datsun Truck. Ratsun is mentioned so I think he is a member here, but it is very informative and helps a lot.... Would it be illegal to scan it and put it up for all of you, or would anyone even be interested?

#322 Javin

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Posted 26 April 2011 - 07:33 AM

Yes, I believe copyright prohibits such an action. There is another thread on it already.

#323 INDY510

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Posted 28 April 2011 - 10:24 PM

.
http://community.rat...20-620-feature/

#324 ggzilla

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Posted 06 May 2011 - 04:26 AM

Heres's my take on the wiring. Since there is some confusing about the diagram being 510-specific, I removed any reference to 510.

Posted Image

And added the 10A fuse icehouse talked about.
And removed the 510 fuse box, since it doesn't actually seem to be involved...
Does it seem correct?
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#325 vdubjim

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Posted 06 May 2011 - 04:45 AM

it is not.

Like i said in my original drawing post, where do the wires from the SR harness go to on the relay lugs, and you can see above i did not connect them.
Ive not been home to see my box so i dont know if he includes a simple pinout of the relays.

also in the pic there is a +12v IN next to each relay. So does power need to go in separately to each one or just one?

Again sorry if that info is included in the shipment.
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#326 ggzilla

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Posted 06 May 2011 - 01:31 PM

where do the wires from the SR harness go to on the relay lugs


You mean the three square relay boxes on the CAN/AM board? That's the beauty of the CAN/AM, you don't need to worry about connecting wires directly to the relays, instead the CAN/AM board has those relays connected internally to those blue wire connectors, that's where the eight harness wires go, to the blue wire connectors.

Posted Image


Good question, all four are marked "MAIN +12V INPUT". I figured you can connect the main 12V supply to any of the four connections along the left side of the board (in other words, you don't have to connect to all four). But I could be wrong:
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#327 510rob

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Posted 06 May 2011 - 01:38 PM

All four of the +12V IN connections are electrically tied together. I provided four possible mounting points because I wasn't sure where or how people would be mounting their wiring, approach angles, clearance, etc... I figured it would be easier to add a few extra holes when I was drawing the circuit board.

Sorry for the confusion and lack of clarity.

#328 banzai510(hainz)

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Posted 06 May 2011 - 01:57 PM

Rob so the drawing should show a short on the left side of the numbers. Like a daisy chain?
Makes sense now.
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#329 ggzilla

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Posted 06 May 2011 - 03:01 PM

Updated the "generic" diagram:
Posted Image
How to connect to anything (not just a 510)

As icehouse mentioned, the IGN/key wire can be tapped at many places in the original vehicle wiring harness:
* At ignition switch under-dash
* At old coil wire under-hood
* Or anywhere else this wire goes which is convenient

Ditto for START wire:
* At ignition switch under-dash
* At starter solenoid S terminal (small wire)
* Or anywhere else this wire goes which is convenient

Both of these wires get their power from the Ignition switch through the original Datsun fuse box, so no need for an extra fuse(?).


For the 50-70A fuse you can just use take out the 70A fuse that comes with (or in) the Engine harness and use that. If you don't have one, the three 15A fuses add up to 45A, so just need something close to 45A to protect the wiring before it gets to the CAN/AM box. That way if there is a short (maybe from a frayed wire, or in case of a crash the wire gets damaged), instead of the wire burning and potentially causing a fire, instead the fuse blows. Or instead of a fuse, you could use a Fusible Link, 45A @ 12V calls for a 12-gauge main feed from battery, and to protect that use a 16-gauge Fusible Link (FUL 1mm²) right near the battery cable. $2 at Amazon.com or use one from late-70s Datsun.

Also I noticed on the diagrams, the blue breakout connectors are reversed from what the photo shows.
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#330 vdubjim

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Posted 06 May 2011 - 11:15 PM

Good to know about the 12v in, handy!!
Yes I realize you don't connect to the relays directly, that's what the blue terminals are for :P

Yes the blue lugs are backwards but are numbered in order correctly.
I did that so the Sr harness on right half align with the can am box, to not redraw the entire thing.

So to aid in the completion, what's LSS? And the other Lugs.
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#331 510rob

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Posted 07 May 2011 - 12:30 AM

LSS is/was my own acronym for "low side switch"

What do you mean by "the other lugs"?

#332 vdubjim

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Posted 07 May 2011 - 02:03 AM

Ok cool. So to make it truly simple..........

The other 10 or whatever terminals 1-4 on each relay.

So fuel pump 1,2,3,4,LSS

What wires go where. The same for the remaining relays.
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#333 Siqx20

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Posted 07 May 2011 - 09:46 AM

I'mtotally going to go this route with wiring my swap! Thanks! How do I.purchas a setup?
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#334 banzai510(hainz)

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Posted 07 May 2011 - 10:26 AM

vdubjim

LSS is pins 85/86 of the blk box relay. usually tells the relay to switch on
So 3 inputs will be used. a low 12volts. Low meaning a low current source 12volt.


on the Fuel pump side AS SHOWN ABOVE the drwg shows 2 outputs .This part im confused to me the blk/pink fuel pump relay wire should go to the FP LSS terminal to turn the FP relay ON. PLEASE CORRET ME IF IM WRONG GGzilla? drwg needs to be upgraded again. think it was transcribed wrong and was forgotton orginally from the blkbox type earlier drawings


Vdubjim
FP output terminals 1 2 3 4 are shorted together
ECCS outputterminal 1 2 3 shorted together
RUN outputterminals 1 2 3 shorted together

shorted together means you just have multiple output terminals
Example on FP you can plug the fuel pump wire in 1 2 3 or 4 dont matter as they are all shorted together. Just up to you what number you want.
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#335 vdubjim

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Posted 07 May 2011 - 11:48 AM

Ok so i see the image is updated again.

So FP i agree with black/pink to LSS.

I believe the ECCS is incorrect. ECU BUP = back up power? so thats wrong. And what on the harness=LSS is it red/black? and what is 'shorted' to 1,2,or 3?

The RUN relay, all wires basically are twisted together and stuffed into 1,2,and 3 ?
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#336 volksguy

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Posted 07 May 2011 - 07:03 PM

Well thanks to a local guy that helped me with the wireing, my car now runs, BUT i have a starting issue. It takes forever for it to start up, it just cranks and cranks, i have to keep trying and trying for it to start. Now once its started, its not a problem, it will start right up again, but if it sits for a few hours, it takes forever again to start.

#337 banzai510(hainz)

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Posted 08 May 2011 - 12:19 PM

vdubjim

That above drawing is correct just the nomenclauture is in the WRONG spot

where it says BUP PWR should be on the bottom of the ECCS relay .right now it shows it on the top.So either one draws aline going up to the BUP or just swap the nomenclature.

just swap it or use the old drawing nomenclature and use the labols on the Can am box.Simple

BUP PWR is already hooked up to the battery side 12volts via the box. It doesnt even use the ECCS relay.

vdubjim you asked?
The RUN relay, all wires basically are twisted together and stuffed into 1,2,and 3 ?
Depends what model Yes you can twist them together or use the 3 avalible terminals. I would but the big wire in singlally and if smaller wires tie them together then put them in one terminal.
really the FP relay could have went one less terminal to 3 and put a extra on the ECCS to make it 4 terminals. Just depends on what ECU type you running and what s your really need.
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#338 Icehouse

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Posted 08 May 2011 - 01:58 PM

Ok so i see the image is updated again.

So FP i agree with black/pink to LSS.

I believe the ECCS is incorrect. ECU BUP = back up power? so thats wrong. And what on the harness=LSS is it red/black? and what is 'shorted' to 1,2,or 3?

The RUN relay, all wires basically are twisted together and stuffed into 1,2,and 3 ?





What engine are you working on?




Well thanks to a local guy that helped me with the wireing, my car now runs, BUT i have a starting issue. It takes forever for it to start up, it just cranks and cranks, i have to keep trying and trying for it to start. Now once its started, its not a problem, it will start right up again, but if it sits for a few hours, it takes forever again to start.



Did you hook up the orange wire to the starter solenoid?
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#339 vdubjim

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Posted 08 May 2011 - 07:22 PM

Sr
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#340 vdubjim

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Posted 08 May 2011 - 10:23 PM

Afghanistan is boring....Cleaned up and made bigger for better printing.

Does it check?
Posted Image

Large print version
http://images55.fotk...3/SRdiagram.jpg
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