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Getting 120whp out of L20B


Bandit

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So a z22 block z22 cranks and rods with ka24e/z24 89mm pistons and u67 or w58 or a87 head will make an lz23 motor?

 

Not a great motor. Fine for cruising and torque, but the short Z22 rods and the uncounterweighted, long stroke crank make the engine feel rather wobbly. If you're going to use the Z22 crank, at least invest in a set of custom pistons so you can use the Z20 6" rods. MUCH better rod/stroke ratio.

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I have a Z20S running engine in the shed, does it have the rods your talking about?

Not a great motor. Fine for cruising and torque, but the short Z22 rods and the uncounterweighted, long stroke crank make the engine feel rather wobbly. If you're going to use the Z22 crank, at least invest in a set of custom pistons so you can use the Z20 6" rods. MUCH better rod/stroke ratio.

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My engine was in an 80/81 Datsun 510 wagon as I recall, it had a carb, I heard the Z20E was different, but I don't know that for sure.

I heard the engine run before it was pulled, it ran good, had to take it to get the 2 shortshaft 5 speeds that I wanted, it was a package deal thing.

I don't believe so, but maybe. I know the Z20E had them. They have "N85" cast into them.

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Wayno its not that ineed more power since the motors on my stand which isn't doin me any good,

 

I just want to build my l20b with as big as it can get pistons and head and big cam I do love the pope of a good cam, I have seen the dyno vids of the l20b and yes that's a beast I just want to have a modified built to max l20b , were not talkin about intakes and carbs yet I'm talkin purely block and head and every th ing inbetween

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But I don't think cams go well with high rpms huh ?

Can you guys tell me what's a good way to build l20b for high revving?

And what's good way for more hp and sound, stroker or something idk, I ask the geniouses on ratsun, some crazier than others, I'm dumb, not stupid there's a difference so I ask while I can I appreciate every word fellas

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would like a turbo set up for this l20b truck but no jack diddly about them and will be honest but I do think I remeber reading that ow boost and higher compression is better for being easier on your motor than high booost and low cp

But I imagine a custom intake would need to be made or headers idk so I just would like to know how to build a high revving l20b or if that's not recommended then a beefed up one with as much hp,

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If a long rods make any difference it's only at ultra high RPMs and even then it's longevity not power. Or enough power to be worth the bother. Unless rods and bolts are replaced, the Z22 crank is red lined at 6,500 RPMs and being not fully counter weighted even more so. The 2.3 is not going to be a rev happy engine so any rod will do.

 

 

The L20B/Z20 can be bored from 85mm to 89mm but it's safer to bore a wider Z22's 87mm to 89mm. If running a Z22 crank you will likely have a block to go with it. Cheapest route is a Z22 (preferably rebuilt, but a good running one is fine) With L20B head, pan and timing gear. Simple, easy, no machioning, nothing special to get and you have a 10% larger stroker engine.

 

The Z20E and the Z20S in the A10 both have the 6" 152.5mm rod wayno... oh, and the flattop 85mm pistons

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would like a turbo set up for this l20b truck but no jack diddly about them and will be honest but I do think I remeber reading that ow boost and higher compression is better for being easier on your motor than high booost and low cp

But I imagine a custom intake would need to be made or headers idk so I just would like to know how to build a high revving l20b or if that's not recommended then a beefed up one with as much hp,

There's a lot of questions here. I'm only going to answer a couple of them to try and keep you on track.

 

First off, thanks for the compliments. I try to do the best work always.

 

Second, .080" over bore is the most I would go for a L20B. That is 87mm, which is the same as Z22

 

To my recollection, there is not a Z22 piston that has the right pin height to work in a L20B with stock rods and crank.

 

I would not go turbo. You have no idea what it actually costs until you've spent $5K into it and you're still blowing stuff up.

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If a long rods make any difference it's only at ultra high RPMs and even then it's longevity not power. Or enough power to be worth the bother. Unless rods and bolts are replaced, the Z22 crank is red lined at 6,500 RPMs and being not fully counter weighted even more so. The 2.3 is not going to be a rev happy engine so any rod will do.

 

 

The L20B/Z20 can be bored from 85mm to 89mm but it's safer to bore a wider Z22's 87mm to 89mm. If running a Z22 crank you will likely have a block to go with it. Cheapest route is a Z22 (preferably rebuilt, but a good running one is fine) With L20B head, pan and timing gear. Simple, easy, no machioning, nothing special to get and you have a 10% larger stroker engine.

 

The Z20E and the Z20S in the A10 both have the 6" 152.5mm rod wayno... oh, and the flattop 85mm pistons

I still stick to my rule to never bore a L20B to 89mm. Too thin and too risky.

 

Also, when referring to the differences between the two motors (2200/2300) (L20B stroke/Z22 stroke), I am not talking about horsepower. I am speaking of the general imbalance felt while driving as you would around town. The L/Z22 using the Z22 crank and short rods definitely has a vibration or resonance or NVH as they call it today that I never liked. It may seem like I'm playing both sides of the fence, but in actuallity, I play devil's advocate and lay out all the pros and cons with the intention of having the end user decide for themself.

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OT. regarding Z20 ,I have one here going in shop truck,has ported head with bre 538 lift cam. , it has slight piston depressions for four valve head , but was a Napsz they are close to flat tops pistons and really like long rod ,have some comp 90mm pistons that never made my Z22 that was 89mm already , so my choice z22 bored to 90mm with z20 crank and rods for more higher revs .Maybe install 48mm solex side drafts , but keep saying shop truck everybody borrows it .

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OK, you need to understand what a big cam is, I put an RV cam in my L20b that was in my work truck, my machinist tried to talk me out of it, but I just had to have a bigger cam, you know, more power!!!, well that came back and bit me in the ass, you see the stock cam has just about the most torque of any cam, so what happened to me was it was very hard to get the work truck moving as I had less torque, now I got bit in the ass twice here, you see I had a W53 head rebuilt, but this was the only head that I did not put big valves in, I thought bigger cam, smaller valve would be the same, NOT, so now I have a rebuilt head/cam in my work truck, it is hard to get it moving, and when the cam finally starts to kick in, the valves are to small to let it breath, so I have no low end power, and the valves are to small for high RPMs, I built an LZ23 to replace that engine in the work truck, as I could not stand it any longer, I am very happy with my LZ23, way more torque and power than the L20b ever had.

It's all a balancing act, you really need to know what you are doing, otherwise you are just throwing money away like I did when I put that RV cam in that engine, basically it works like this, big cams rob peter(torque) to pay paul(hp), so to use a big cam, you need the correct crank stoke, and the correct head so it can breath to take advantage of the cam.

 

Wayno its not that ineed more power since the motors on my stand which isn't doin me any good,

I just want to build my l20b with as big as it can get pistons and head and big cam I do love the pope of a good cam, I have seen the dyno vids of the l20b and yes that's a beast I just want to have a modified built to max l20b , were not talkin about intakes and carbs yet I'm talkin purely block and head and every th ing inbetween

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Wait steffregen just said u dnt think z22 has right pin height, well shoot

Now I'm confused hahaha

 

Unless one of you has a z22 for sales or trade then I thinknill be stuck with my l20b

 

what can I do to this l20b as far as boring and pistons that would work to make it beefy as possible for my u67 head

And what about valves and cam crank com, I think I saw 280 cam 460 lift or 480 I don't remember but I saw it on side of truck that had l20b bored 40 over with a 600cfm 4 barrel

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Should I just order my 40 or 60 over oversized datsun pistons and rings ,

 

I just want to build the beefiest motor I can without doing any special custom rods or pins , my money goes to bills and little one so its not big money build but I will build it right and don't get the cheap parts just takes me longeer got to put little aside each payday

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So pretty much I need a z22 motor ? ,

 

I want to build an lz in my winter spare time , idc if it takes me a year, I want head to toe new, gaskets bearings pistons rings rods ,

 

So is there diff kinds of z22 or z20 ? What cars and years do I get them out of

 

I can either get z20 or z22 and bore either out to 89 mm and get ka24e pistons and both wil support l20b head right ?

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, I would just like to make my l20b as beefy as possible , what is max reccomended bore for a l20b? and what pistons do I order ? What cam and what crank whT heads best and second best and

 

 

I think somebody needs to do alot of reading 1st. How to Race and Built a Nissan engine Books. Olddatsun.com the tech section.

find what parts are still avai as they are starting to dry up, esp lash pad sizes.

Find out income $$$$ of engine builder determines the best outcome.

 

work on cleaning up that electrical mess first on your truck.

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