Jump to content

B210 Goodness: Finally Picked up a Car(Dos?)


Kirden

Recommended Posts

Well, the shit officially hit the fan at work over the past month. Between all of our data for testing being corrupted and us going into our busiest holiday season to date with three major releases, life has been pretty hectic. I've slowly picked up a few items here and there, but the B210 has been sitting mostly unmolested. Hopefully all of that changes this week (off Mon-Thurs).

 

Today I was able to score a year correct FSM. Sadly it won't be here till the end of the week, but I can still clean all of the rat shit and leaves out of the car.

 

So, here is the real reason for my post today:

 

I am planning a trip to the machinist to correct my manifold issue. The Bogg Bro R1 manifold and Kirk Racing headers are different styles (two peice vs 5 peice flanges) and I'm trying to figure out what steps need to be taken to correct it. The Bogg manifold has a thick aluminum flange while the kirk headers have a thin steel flange:

 

P1000535_zps1a30ed10.jpg

 

IMG_20140416_161623_zps13d104fa.jpg

 

I don't have a better picture of the header flange, but it's about 1/4th inch thick vs almost 1/2 inch on the bogg manifold.

 

My problem is I think that it will be easier to modify the header flange, but I fear making it weaker would make it more prone to leakage. Would it be better to have the machinist cut me a new flange for the headers to match up correctly with the intake? If I take this route the machinist may be able to increase it's thickness which may correct the issue of securing them to the head. Kinda difficult to eliminate leaks when the manifolds are different thicknesses and share multiple studs.

 

What route should I take? If I'm not able to increase the thickness of the header flange, how can I modify them to make sure they stay tight?

Link to comment
  • 2 months later...
  • Replies 188
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Grabbed some goodies for the B today, check it:

 

IMG_20150105_162510_zps1db7ed6b.jpg

 

Neat huh?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ok, a slight joke... The real reason for the post is I have a new toy. Still need to wash it:

IMG_20150105_162545_zpsa09bbb16.jpg

 

Neat tools?

IMG_20150105_162727_zpsa05fd200.jpg

 

Almost perfect dash

IMG_20150105_162634_zpsaa5c9194.jpg

 

All of the rear interior

IMG_20150105_162736_zpsc61ebd96.jpg

 

Amazing interior

IMG_20150105_162652_zps3a6d8b06.jpg

IMG_20150105_162623_zps8b91140a.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment

In case anyone missed it, this new toy was somewhat of a barn find. The previous owner passed away around 2003 so the heirs took over her property. No one every went to check on the place so pipes burst, limbs caused damage to the house, and no one knew what was really there. A few months back someone made an offer on the property, so one of the heirs husbands went to check it all out. He had thought that the vehicle had been sold or crushed long ago, but there is was, sitting under the car port, covered in about 12 years of dirt and moss.

 

I will be going through a lot of the paperwork over this week and posting up some neat things that came with the car, but here is a link to the original post and the lovely moss and vines (the vines really liked those hubcaps... :P )

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/64987-barn-find-b210/

Link to comment

So, as promised:

 

IMG_20150106_084629_zpsd51551b0.jpg

 

Hitch helped me identify this pump that I had never seen. The green car doesn't have one:

 

IMG_20150106_084649_zps13f37da2.jpg

 

 

Looking over everything and weighing the options carefully, I think I'm just gonna try to get it running as is. The engine turns smooth, the radiator isn't dry, the oil isn't runny, and there are very few rust spots other than the front of the hood. Getting it running stock seems like the best choice for now.  I'll be replacing all of the hoses and pulling the rocker cover to see how much build-up is on the valves and rockers, but hopefully with new filters, fluids including trans and diff, and cleaning the fuel tank we can get it running.

 

Also planning to replace all of the brake components (pads, hoses, cylinders, ect) and the clutch/flywheel (pretty sure it's gonna be stuck after 11 years of sitting). It might take a while, somewhat got raped by the plumber over the holidays... $544 for two leaks, so still building up funds. Luckily tax time is right around the corner.

  • Like 2
Link to comment

Caught all kinds of hell trying to register it today.

 

"Oh, you need to get a police officer to fill this form out" go home and wait on the 5-0... 

 

"All good, lets get this transferred, insurance binder please?"

"Um... it's non-op, I just need it registered"

"Sorry, no go without insurance since you don't have a title. Bring in a binder and we'll finish this up"

 

"Oh, Nationwide can't insure something that old, let me transfer you to hagerty"

"Oh, Hagerty needs to see the car in a garage or car port with atleast 3 sides"

"Oh sure, Progressive can do it, but you won't get shit if you wreck it." 

*Pay progressive more than you pay for your 2010 car with full coverage...*

 

"Oh sorry, the tag office closed early today for personal reasons. Please come back tomorrow..."

 

Fuckers...

  • Like 1
Link to comment

"Oh sure, Progressive can do it, but you won't get shit if you wreck it." 

*Pay progressive more than you pay for your 2010 car with full coverage...*

 

 

I have all my old stuff insured through them. As long as you have a daily driver and the old car is only used for "pleasure driving", they only charge me about $10-15 a month per car. 

 

But if you get full coverage, yeah. It'll be a lot. I just do "uninsured/underinsured motorist" with a stated value of what the car is worth.

 

And save all your receipts.   :thumbup:

  • Like 2
Link to comment

I did uninsured/underinsured and comprehensive since we have some theft around here, but no collison. The comp was only $50 for 6 months, but the policy was 300 so $350 for 6 months. My 2010 xb has full coverage and my mom's jeep is on the policy and it totals 550 for six months... Her car costs more than my car and it's only liability and comp/unins/underins.

 

I'll probably swap all of my cars back to progressive after my nationwide policy runs out, but we'll see.

Link to comment

 

 

And save all your receipts.   :thumbup:

 

The PO gave me a nice bag full of documents from his mother-in-law that will be perfect for holding the receipts. Eventually I want to get a little portfolio for it, but hopefully it won't take too many receipts to get it back on the road :P

Link to comment

Bam! The coupe is all legal and all mine  :devil:

 

Got to the county clerk and payed the new "TVAT" tax, where you pay all of the taxes for the life of the vehicle based on it's current KBB value. Tax total? $3.13 :rofl:  

 

So, I renewed registration on the xb, got the B registered for last year since my bday is in March, and payed to renew it through next year. Fun stuff, but now it's all done. Grand total? $63.13. Not too bad and no headaches at the dmv/county clerk till 2016 B)  

 

I have a few friends that are trying to talk me into doing a swap (KA or CA). I'm thinking I'll get it running as is, then re-evaluate how I feel about it. Just wish they would lift this water ban so that I could wash it. Hell, I'd even take a decent rain.

  • Like 3
Link to comment

 

I have a few friends that are trying to talk me into doing a swap (KA or CA). I'm thinking I'll get it running as is, then re-evaluate how I feel about it. Just wish they would lift this water ban so that I could wash it. Hell, I'd even take a decent rain.

I was about to mention that the white stuff on the ground is frozen water, then realized your location.

  • Like 1
Link to comment

Yea, that is my argument on the subject :P Plus I don't want to cut the trans tunnel, mess up the stock wiring, and have to swap in a different crossmember/lcas, brakes, rear end, ect. on such a nice car. However, there is part of me that says I have about $2500 in aftermarket parts for the green B210, so why not use them...  Then I'd have R1s, headers, desmog it, new cam, megasquirt to replace the distributor with a crank sensor and TPS advance to work with the R1s (no vacuum needed). Not to mention I can rebuild the green ones A15 and H89 head to have as a spare.

 

Sad part is that turns the 4 door into a parts car, but after being so disappointed about the amount of rust, I kinda gave up on it anyway. The interior is shot, the wiring is shot, the engine has never ran in the car... It was a lot to overcome, where this one is still the stock example, smog and all :P

 

Just wondering, why the 1200 carb?

 

I'm thinking the only real modifications I'll end up wanting after it's on the road will be to lower it. Then just build the A15 and all the goodies as a backup. After all, it's always nicer to drive your Datsun that to look at it in the driveway.

  • Like 1
Link to comment

Thanks for the info ericsb210. I'm thinking the built A15 should be enough power to keep my happy with it. The goal for this one is just to have a fun car to drive around on my days off and to drive to shows. Don't want to compete, but it's always better bringing your project to a car show than some 2000+ piece of crap. I'm sure eventually I may want more power, but as I get older that need goes down. 

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.