Dalesun Posted November 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 Yeah ive adjusted them pretty even. Hate having to do that. One of my bleeder valves started to strip so I just left that one alone. Wanted to be able to get it out later. Sawpped out my rear axel for one off a 620 cause I drilled out my hubs for new studs and they were not that straight so I got some air in the lines. Need to get one of the adjusters free so I can have better back brakes. Will a 521 one fit in a 620 rear axel? And I didnt know that drums would stop you better than disks. I knew they worked good when properly dialed in. Sucks when you get them wet tough. Some bad puddles here. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted November 20, 2013 Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 I would disagree with you guys on the drum verses disc brakes, I have had three types of brakes over the years on my work truck, drum, non-vented, and vented, and I have had the privilege of going down sylvan hill with all three types of brakes with a full load on my truck in traffic, the drum brakes are basically worthless half way down and smell really bad, the non-vented are starting to fade about half way down but still work till I get to the tunnel, but I have to press fairly hard and they don't smell so good either, and then I have the dual piston hardbody brakes with the vented rotors, they work fairly good the whole way, but they do get hot, and I will happily use the that type, thankyou. Quote Link to comment
Dalesun Posted November 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2013 So after day one of the kingpin troll none of the kingpins are out. Passanger side lock bolt and grease caps are out. Kingpin has not come out yet...... Hopefully it will with out a press. Driver side lock bolt has not came out yet. I actually snapped it hitting it so many times. Penatrating oil and a mallet didnt work. Tried to take the assembaly off the truck but I couldnt get the lower end off the lower control arm. Started to just drill out the bolt with a smaller sized drill bit and being carfull not to hit the spindel. Hope that kingpin will come out. Tried a few differnt ideas to get then out which were not succesfull. Used a pneumatic hammer to get the one lock bolt out with the bolt still on there so it didnt mushroom with lots of penatrating oil. Hope I can finish this tomorrow but these things suck. Might just got buy a shop press for this and for other things. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted November 22, 2013 Report Share Posted November 22, 2013 King pins are a real bitch, I have only been able to remove the lower keeper bolt 50 percent of the time without damaging it. It's been so long since I did that job, that I forget how I removed the pins, but back then it likely involved a big vise, and a bigger hammer. I actually had to do it twice, the first time it was so stiff that I had to take it apart and ream the spindle part so it would move. :( Quote Link to comment
Dalesun Posted November 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2013 Went to Harbor freight and bought a 12 ton shop press and finally got the kingpins out. Should of got it yesterday. Now to clean, assemble, and drive Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted November 23, 2013 Report Share Posted November 23, 2013 Go to this page. http://www.davidcmurphy.com/olddat/620tech.htm Scroll a little more than halfway down, to the 521 section, and down load the Datsun 521 Factory body and Chassis Service manual. Page 96 in the PDF has info on the kingpins. Quote Link to comment
Dalesun Posted November 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2013 Sweet man. I watched the videos that mklotz70 had made and it made it a lot easier once I could actually get them out. Big thanks to him for that. Just got back from a test drive and so far so good. Now to get some sleep for my 14 hr shift at 7 am in the mourning. Tomorrow is gona be a coffe day for sure. Few more things and I can start to put money and time into getting my l20 re built! Quote Link to comment
Dalesun Posted January 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2014 Just did a compression test. Got 170 across all four cylinders. Didnt think it would be that high with my u67 head. Guess all my oil burning and spiting is valve related. Maybe steam seals? Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted January 9, 2014 Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 if your rings are good then valves are your only other option. adjust them hot, then if it continues you will need valve stem seals. Quote Link to comment
Dalesun Posted January 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 Checked them after I did it and there still with in spec from the last time I did it. Dont know how much of a pain it is to do with the head on there and dont really want to take it off but I dont like burning oil. Need to get my l20 rebuild started and get my disks on. Just need a porportioning valve, earl adapters, and brake lines and I can do that. Work needs to give me moar ot! But im gettin a raise and a bounus next month so that should help with the l20. Found a valence for sale on NW too that im going to try to get. Then my truck should be ready for Canby!!! Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted January 14, 2014 Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 I personally would just take the head off to do the valve steam seals but I've done it enough times now that it doesn't scare me. Quote Link to comment
Dalesun Posted January 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2014 Ive dont it before on Ians head but it was off his block. Want to find a cc head or 210 head. But I also really just want to get that l20b rebuilt. Have you done them with the head on? Ive read about people using rope or air to hold the valve up. Kinda want to rock the l16 with the compression test giving me good numbers but I bought that l20 to use it. And now that Canby is creepin up I need to get in gear and wrench! Waiting on a few more parts then I can do my disk brake conversion. Going to bolt on the brackets with calipers and rotors to see if i need different wheels too. Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted January 17, 2014 Report Share Posted January 17, 2014 with the right tool (that can be rented at autozone) and some rope(fuck the compressed air) you can replaced the valve stem seals with the head on the car! if you have ALL the stuff to do that L20 and will pay my gas ill come down and show you how to build that bad boy ;) i have the tools to do it Quote Link to comment
Dalesun Posted January 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2014 That would be cool man. I got everything except the tools for putting the rings on the piston and sliding the piston in. Never put pistons in or replace engine bearings. Build them up from just being a block with rods, bearings, and pistons already in so I know how to do all that comes after. Just need to get it into a machine shop when I have the money. Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted January 18, 2014 Report Share Posted January 18, 2014 Ok, I have all the tools so lemme know when ur ready. Also when at the machinist please buy some "plastigauge" Quote Link to comment
denmarkboy Posted December 18, 2014 Report Share Posted December 18, 2014 bro ! update ?!, i know you have one . wheels , rack , i wasnt even sure it was you ! Quote Link to comment
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